Outer Limits 4x4 Board

HI THERE
I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM AND I THOUGHT IF I COULD HELP ANYONE HERE WITH THERE EXHAUST QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS I WOULD ONLY BE TO HAPPY TO DO SO
MY NAME IS ROSS AND I HAVE BEEN AN EXHAUST TECH FOR OVER 30 YEARS
I LOVE TO SOLVE THE HARD PROBLEMS SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO FIRE AWAY
THANKS

do you sell them?
or know a good place in s.e suburbs of melb...

I want a good set up for sierra.... (92, swb)

PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.

Welcome to OL.

Scott

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:HI THERE
I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM AND I THOUGHT IF I COULD HELP ANYONE HERE WITH THERE EXHAUST QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS I WOULD ONLY BE TO HAPPY TO DO SO
MY NAME IS ROSS AND I HAVE BEEN AN EXHAUST TECH FOR OVER 30 YEARS
I LOVE TO SOLVE THE HARD PROBLEMS SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO FIRE AWAY
THANKS

So you found it alright then welcome aboard.

NJ SWB wrote:PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.

Welcome to OL.

Scott

sorry scott

Gday Ross,

I'm setting up my td42 with a garret ball bearing GT25 turbo, the exhaust housing on this unit is quite small. At this stage I'm looking at squashing a 3" pipe to pick up the waste gate aswell to create my dump pipe, would this be the best opition to get the flow and heat out of the turbo?. I will be making the backing plate this friday ( to mate up to the exhaust housing) so any help would be great.

Regards

Daniels

dogbreath_48 wrote:

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:HI THERE
I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM AND I THOUGHT IF I COULD HELP ANYONE HERE WITH THERE EXHAUST QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS I WOULD ONLY BE TO HAPPY TO DO SO
MY NAME IS ROSS AND I HAVE BEEN AN EXHAUST TECH FOR OVER 30 YEARS
I LOVE TO SOLVE THE HARD PROBLEMS SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO FIRE AWAY
THANKS

So you found it alright then welcome aboard.

thank you
people seem to have a lot of questions for me which i dont miny trying to give them the right advice

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

NJ SWB wrote:PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.

Welcome to OL.

Scott

sorry scott

No problem Ross.

It's good to have you on board.

Cheers,

Scott

so is there much difference in a 2.5inch and 3inch exhaust on a Turbo diesel TD42 GQ?

Would there be any power or cooling gains?

what cost for 3inch system.

DanielS wrote:Gday Ross,

I'm setting up my td42 with a garret ball bearing GT25 turbo, the exhaust housing on this unit is quite small. At this stage I'm looking at squashing a 3" pipe to pick up the waste gate aswell to create my dump pipe, would this be the best opition to get the flow and heat out of the turbo?. I will be making the backing plate this friday ( to mate up to the exhaust housing) so any help would be great.

Regards

Daniels

hi

this turbo you are using may have a small exhaust outlet there is no advantage in squashing a 3" pipe into a smaller outlet
if you can get a plate cut that gives you more internal size for your pipe that would be good
but if not you could use 2.5" for the first 3 " and flare tehe end in a cone shape to take the 3" pipe
when you have a small turbo outlet you do not always have to go large out of the back of it , volume is important but by having a small piece of pipe for a couple of inches you create a vortex efect wich will give you very good gas speed this is just as important

i hope his helps
thanks
ross

bogged wrote:so is there much difference in a 2.5inch and 3inch exhaust on a Turbo diesel TD42 GQ?

Would there be any power or cooling gains?

what cost for 3inch system.

hi there

depending on your turbo size as in boost
usually you will find an increase in top end power with a 3" system
as far as cooling i dont think it will make a great deal of difference
is your heat problim under bonnet ,water temp or turbo
you need to work this out first to see how to solve it
thanks
ross

ps 3" systems are usually about $650

Is there any way of getting more low end torque through a VX Commodore V6 by longer runners or whatever? Not fitted yet, but looking at options when the day arrives (in about 3-5 weeks)

Damkia, one of the best things that people do is fit different rockers. Perfectune or Forced Induction Technologies. FIT's are change over welded up ones at 1.9-1. Sounds wrong but people swear by them. Perfectune are rollers and cheaper but only 1.8-1. Then the usual extractors, cold air intake, bigger throttle body etc.

if got a 13bt and was thinking 3" its a factory turbo and after the bigger tube is i would like to boost it up to 12psi with inter.

EXHAUSTFIX, I have a TD42 Patrol non turboed, I am looking at extractors and exhaust system. I know it has been mentioned in other strings but what system do you reccommend? Brand of extractors and type? Size of system 2.5"? Not worried about abit of sound. Has a standard system at the moment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

thie is a question to ross or any one who knows there shit

i have a 1.6 12r in my 4B it has the standard like 1 and 1/2 inch exaust
would i be best to go to a 2 and 1/4 inch
or 2 and 1/2 inch
or 3 inch

cheers
elliot

DAMKIA wrote:Is there any way of getting more low end torque through a VX Commodore V6 by longer runners or whatever? Not fitted yet, but looking at options when the day arrives (in about 3-5 weeks)

hi there
the best thing i have found for a commodore is good extractors into twin cats and a 2 inch twin system into a single 2.5:rear
this seams to work very well

i hope this helps

frp88 wrote:if got a 13bt and was thinking 3" its a factory turbo and after the bigger tube is i would like to boost it up to 12psi with inter.

if you are thinking of upgrading to 12 lb boost you are right on the mark for needing a 3" system
any where near 1 bar of boost warrents this size

patrolpaul wrote:EXHAUSTFIX, I have a TD42 Patrol non turboed, I am looking at extractors and exhaust system. I know it has been mentioned in other strings but what system do you reccommend? Brand of extractors and type? Size of system 2.5"? Not worried about abit of sound. Has a standard system at the moment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

every one quotes pace maker extractors for these but i have found on some occations they can be a little big for tb42,s
i prefer the cheeper brand of wildcat as they have a little more restriction and create better gas speed

if your not to worried about a bit of extra noise then sertainly go 2.5" with a large 11x5x18" strait through muffler in the front and a 5" round resenator in the rear

runnin4life wrote:thie is a question to ross or any one who knows there shit

i have a 1.6 12r in my 4B it has the standard like 1 and 1/2 inch exaust
would i be best to go to a 2 and 1/4 inch
or 2 and 1/2 inch
or 3 inch

cheers
elliot

hi
do not go to big on this as it is only a small engine with limited torque
i would suggest only 2" at max
with a long resenator and a large straight through muffler
rember this
the smaller the engine usually means less h/power less torque and a lot more noise so be carefull

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

patrolpaul wrote:EXHAUSTFIX, I have a TD42 Patrol non turboed, I am looking at extractors and exhaust system. I know it has been mentioned in other strings but what system do you reccommend? Brand of extractors and type? Size of system 2.5"? Not worried about abit of sound. Has a standard system at the moment. Your help is greatly appreciated.

every one quotes pace maker extractors for these but i have found on some occations they can be a little big for tb42,s
i prefer the cheeper brand of wildcat as they have a little more restriction and create better gas speed

if your not to worried about a bit of extra noise then sertainly go 2.5" with a large 11x5x18" strait through muffler in the front and a 5" round resenator in the rear

I'm in the same boat as Patrol Paul (and my names Paul...freaky huh!)
Anyways would 3" be better than 2.5" or is it just spank value? If theres gonna be noise I want a deep note.

Q for EXHAUSTFIX
Hi was wondering if you definetly HAVE to have those flexy braided looking things in the zorst system say on a sd33 diesel in a mq which you are putting extractors with 2.5 system and straight threw muffler on.

cheers an welcome

Hey ross,

I have a sierra with 1.3, extractors,modded cam and toyota carb.

i have a 2" pipe and straight thru turbo muffler on it. is this the best way to go for allround power/torque benefits.

cheers

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:HI THERE
I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM AND I THOUGHT IF I COULD HELP ANYONE HERE WITH THERE EXHAUST QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS I WOULD ONLY BE TO HAPPY TO DO SO
MY NAME IS ROSS AND I HAVE BEEN AN EXHAUST TECH FOR OVER 30 YEARS
I LOVE TO SOLVE THE HARD PROBLEMS SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO FIRE AWAY
THANKS

I made up tube headers for my B/Block 80 ute years ago out of mild steel tubing and had them HPC hi-temp coated. I have had bad problems with the pipes constantly cracking, im always rewelding and having to pull the pipes off to do it some times. Ive made headers before but being my own 4B had them coated for corrosion resistance mainly. Have heard this to be a problem on exhausts when coated as the pipes run real hot and is a common problem, i also wonder what it does to the steels chemical properties. I am contemplating making a new set but this time in stainless but have had a lot to do with stainless pipe ( Im a maint supv in a steel mill ) and over time the stainless suffers from fatigue cracking. I need the corrosion resistance as the 80ute is a recreational 4B so dosent see regular mon-fri use gets moved around the shed and has the typical mud encrusted moisture absorbing exhaust coating. Mild steel pipes uncoated dont last too long under these conditions so thats why looking at stainless and prepared to go to the expense on materials and full tig weld them but would like to be sure im doing the right thing.

wally

I'd also love to know if the flexy braid things are a requirement.
Person who did the exhaust did not install one.
truck is an 80 series.
Burnsy

muduppig wrote:Q for EXHAUSTFIX
Hi was wondering if you definetly HAVE to have those flexy braided looking things in the zorst system say on a sd33 diesel in a mq which you are putting extractors with 2.5 system and straight threw muffler on.

cheers an welcome

no you dont need them with those extractors they support there own weight
you only need them in a fwd car where the motor is twisting under torque from front to back or on a big turbo system as the weight and vibration may cause the pipe to brake of the turbo plate

the flexy bits in the exhaust are there to stop the engine torque twisting all the exhaust mounts off ...

i have a supercharged (9psi) TD42 with extractors n 3" with straight through muff and a 5" dawg on the rear in my wagon ... its fawkin loud

i also have a TD42 turbo(T3) hiflowed 15psi and intercooler in my ute ... 3" dump and 3" zaust till just past the cab and straight down dump no muffs ... its also fawking loud ...



i don't have any questions ...

nicbeer wrote:Hey ross,

I have a sierra with 1.3, extractors,modded cam and toyota carb.

i have a 2" pipe and straight thru turbo muffler on it. is this the best way to go for allround power/torque benefits.

cheers

do not go any bigger with that small engine
the only thing you might be able to try is make your secondry pipes on the extractors about 14" long that may help a bit

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:

muduppig wrote:Q for EXHAUSTFIX
Hi was wondering if you definetly HAVE to have those flexy braided looking things in the zorst system say on a sd33 diesel in a mq which you are putting extractors with 2.5 system and straight threw muffler on.

cheers an welcome

no you dont need them with those extractors they support there own weight
you only need them in a fwd car where the motor is twisting under torque from front to back or on a big turbo system as the weight and vibration may cause the pipe to brake of the turbo plate

cheers for that when i getting quotes for fitting the system (already have extractors but not fitted yet) i had to have one in it and with it in push the price though the roof so i can go now and ask not to have it or find another fitter whos ok with not fitting it in

cheers again

80UTE wrote:

EXHAUSTFIX wrote:HI THERE
I AM NEW TO THIS FORUM AND I THOUGHT IF I COULD HELP ANYONE HERE WITH THERE EXHAUST QUESTIONS OR PROBLEMS I WOULD ONLY BE TO HAPPY TO DO SO
MY NAME IS ROSS AND I HAVE BEEN AN EXHAUST TECH FOR OVER 30 YEARS
I LOVE TO SOLVE THE HARD PROBLEMS SO PLEASE FEEL FREE TO FIRE AWAY
THANKS

I made up tube headers for my B/Block 80 ute years ago out of mild steel tubing and had them HPC hi-temp coated. I have had bad problems with the pipes constantly cracking, im always rewelding and having to pull the pipes off to do it some times. Ive made headers before but being my own 4B had them coated for corrosion resistance mainly. Have heard this to be a problem on exhausts when coated as the pipes run real hot and is a common problem, i also wonder what it does to the steels chemical properties. I am contemplating making a new set but this time in stainless but have had a lot to do with stainless pipe ( Im a maint supv in a steel mill ) and over time the stainless suffers from fatigue cracking. I need the corrosion resistance as the 80ute is a recreational 4B so dosent see regular mon-fri use gets moved around the shed and has the typical mud encrusted moisture absorbing exhaust coating. Mild steel pipes uncoated dont last too long under these conditions so thats why looking at stainless and prepared to go to the expense on materials and full tig weld them but would like to be sure im doing the right thing.

wally

nice question wally
ok no1 use a 10mm plate
no2 use 316 stainless steel
no3 tig weld all joints do not grind back welds
no4 make pipes go in to collector cone in firing order or rotation 1 to 4 in firing order
do no hang the exhaust to ridged make sure you have plenty of movement on the rubber mountd
at the back of the collector cones
make up solid plate mounts and attach to gearbok
if your making your own collector cones put a point inside them
your cracking is due to vibration and sagging under heat
if you do all this you should have no problim

i have a simular setup on the new ford focus world series rally car and that does not brake
thanks for the brain drain
ross