Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Have an 80 series well kitted out but dam I love 40's
Want to get myself a 40 soft top.
What is the difference between models.
What do I need to look for.
Just after a project. Does not need to be driveable right away.
Burnsy

rust
rust
rust
rust
rust
rust
what drivetrain you looking at running? if your going to turf the lot and go v8 etc then no point checking that.

post 1979 ones have the stronger cv's, t case, and good disk brakes. but it's all easy enough to get a shitter 60 series and borrow those bits anyway.

do you know if you are aiming for a diesel (BJ4x - B/3B) or Petrol (FJ4x - 2F)?

- look for something 81+ (front discs, p/s, 5spd maybe a/c)
- as mentioned rust is something to look out for. you will find it here:
under floor pans, stick your head under the step and check under there, rear of the tub in the wheel wells. check body mounts for rust, etc
- preferably look for one with at least discs at the front
- check to see if the transfer is leaking (might need a new rear seal, common for old cruisers), not too much of a problem
- look for a 5spd (split transfer?)
- diesels with lots of KM's is ok (as long as its had regular maintenance)
- check blowby to see how much it smokes
- oil leaks, usual stuff

thats all i can think of at the moment.. if you want a hand checkin on out let me know.. i could run an eye over it if you want. happy hunting!

hope that helps.

Looking at a FJ40 1973 this weekend.
Will this have front and rear drums?
Can you register a car with front drums.
People talk about swaping 60 series diffs. Is this a simple swap or require mods.
Burnsy

bruiser wrote:Looking at a FJ40 1973 this weekend.
Will this have front and rear drums?
Can you register a car with front drums.
People talk about swaping 60 series diffs. Is this a simple swap or require mods.
Burnsy

Yep a 73 will have drums front and back
You can register them but if you are going to do any sort of performanse upgrade like a new engine or turbo etc. or putting bigger tyres on I would strongly suggest sourcing a disc brake front end which you can just bolt under or doing a disc conversion. I had a v8 under the hood and the thing was plain unsafe to drive with the drum front end. Went to discs and the difference was amazing
60 Series axle swaps are pretty straightforward it seems. Plenty of advice on em in here.

v840 wrote: I had a v8 under the hood and the thing was plain unsafe to drive with the drum front end. Went to discs and the difference was amazing
60 Series axle swaps are pretty straightforward it seems. Plenty of advice on em in here.

i'm not arguing against discs, but i've found well adjusted drums to be almost as good.

and considering a V8 is probably lighter than the 2F it replaces, why would it make it any more unsafe... pulling up the same weight from 100k's is going to require the same amount of stopping power, regardless of number of cylinders

shorty_f0rty wrote:do you know if you are aiming for a diesel (BJ4x - B/3B) or Petrol (FJ4x - 2F)?

- look for something 81+ (front discs, p/s, 5spd maybe a/c)
- as mentioned rust is something to look out for. you will find it here:
under floor pans, stick your head under the step and check under there, rear of the tub in the wheel wells. check body mounts for rust, etc
- preferably look for one with at least discs at the front
- check to see if the transfer is leaking (might need a new rear seal, common for old cruisers), not too much of a problem
- look for a 5spd (split transfer?)
- diesels with lots of KM's is ok (as long as its had regular maintenance)
- check blowby to see how much it smokes
- oil leaks, usual stuff

thats all i can think of at the moment.. if you want a hand checkin on out let me know.. i could run an eye over it if you want. happy hunting!

hope that helps.

the floors rust more often in the post 1979 body style from my experience. don't be put off the drum brake ones... you said it's a project, use the drums as a bartering tool to get the price down, then throw hilux/later model cruiser knuckles on it for the princely sum of around $150...

later model has the split case, you can I.D. them because they'll have a crossmember on the gearbox/t case. they are a stronger box, but then again, you haven't specified what drivetrain your running, so a cheaper, better condition shell might be the better way to go.

factory 40 powersteering is shit, so plan on going 60 series steering anyway.

60 series diffs (complete) are a bit of stuffing about to fit...

rust... the above mentioned places especially the footwells in the later body style), and doors, windscreen surround, and the channel that goes under the rear door openings. oh and the gutters around the fibreglass roof

bad_religion_au wrote:
and considering a V8 is probably lighter than the 2F it replaces, why would it make it any more unsafe... pulling up the same weight from 100k's is going to require the same amount of stopping power, regardless of number of cylinders

I was trying to make the point that you can go alot faster with a small block than a 2F. Hence the need for improved braking. Its all relative of course.
Perhaps my drums were set up incorrectly but under hard braking the vehicle would swerve dangerously. It never happened once with the discs.
Also, as I'm sure you realise, if you increase the rolling diameter (bigger tyres) as I did, the braking will get proportionately worse the bigger you go which was another reason for me to go to discs. I was just putting in my 2c and trying to help the guy out.
In my experience:
drums=shite
discs=

bad_religion_au wrote: 60 series diffs (complete) are a bit of stuffing about to fit...

How much stuffing around? Other then the mentioned-in-another-post bits like the hangers.

How hard is it to fit them and p/s from a 60 into a 1965 3spd?
Along with the gearbox?

midnight wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote: 60 series diffs (complete) are a bit of stuffing about to fit...

How much stuffing around? Other then the mentioned-in-another-post bits like the hangers.

How hard is it to fit them and p/s from a 60 into a 1965 3spd?
Along with the gearbox?

spring hangers are your biggest issue, because on a 40 series, the springs go right where the diff pumpkin goes

powersteering is easy. bolt the box to the chassis using crush tubes, cut down the 60 steering rods (measure the difference between 40 and 60 rod lengths, then cut 1/2 from each end of the tube), bolt the 60 steering arms to your knuckles (or use the entire 60 series knuckle and you gain discs too). work out a pump mount, get a 2 pully harmonic balancer, get a 55 series steering colum, and work out the shaft that goes between colum and box.

gearbox you'll run into issues such as, different bolt patterns on the output shaft flanges compared to the diff, you might foul the rear xmember, you need a rear support x member for the new gearbox (old 40's didn't have them) your driveshaft lengths will change and i don't know if your clutch will work with it (gearbox input might be a different spline)

my 2c

later = better... provided it hasnt been used to rope wild beasts in the outback as I saw on some doco recently...

the link below is great for info in cruisers.. yank site, but still has heaps of good info and lists what to look out for when purchasing a cruiser...

As far as the brakes issue goes.. I have drums all round, and whilst I would obviously prefer discs (its novel to stop after water crossings) if you keep the maintenance up to them they are just OK... I can lock all 4's pretty easily..

The 2F is a pig.. v8's are lighter and are just as if not more fuel efficient..

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/faq.txt

my 2c

later = better... provided it hasnt been used to rope wild beasts in the outback as I saw on some doco recently...

the link below is great for info in cruisers.. yank site, but still has heaps of good info and lists what to look out for when purchasing a cruiser...

As far as the brakes issue goes.. I have drums all round, and whilst I would obviously prefer discs (its novel to stop after water crossings) if you keep the maintenance up to them they are just OK... I can lock all 4's pretty easily..

The 2F is a pig.. v8's are lighter and are just as if not more fuel efficient..

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/faq.txt

my 2c

later = better... provided it hasnt been used to rope wild beasts in the outback as I saw on some doco recently...

the link below is great for info in cruisers.. yank site, but still has heaps of good info and lists what to look out for when purchasing a cruiser...

As far as the brakes issue goes.. I have drums all round, and whilst I would obviously prefer discs (its novel to stop after water crossings) if you keep the maintenance up to them they are just OK... I can lock all 4's pretty easily..

The 2F is a pig.. v8's are lighter and are just as if not more fuel efficient..

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/faq.txt

You have being away to long Daniel and forgot how to post good to see you back even if you now reside on the other side

BJ

the_smoo wrote:

http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/faq.txt

That link is awesome. Nice info on how to rotate th knuckles when doing a springover. That is going to make life easier for me IF i every get around to it

maybe the link needs to be broken up and Put into the bible.

CHeers

I seem to have turned into a posting gimp of sorts