Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i just got my Nissan Safari with TD42 engine manual trany, do i have to choke it every time my engine cooled down? especially in the morning? i have my pajero before i start in and go. but with my safari, the idling goes down if i try to run it for a few km away, its like to die. so everytime i start it , i choke it for about 5 minutes at 1300rpm. is this okay, or theres a problem i did'nt know. im not so familiar with this engine, any suggestiom from you guys with expertise in TD42, what should i do, what should i know?

thanks

are you sure its a TD42? Mine doesnt have a choke..........

Is it a diesel engine?

ive been told that you should, and ive also been told that you shouldnt.

running a diesel under no load apparently is not good, but i dont think running them cold is either........

i just drive mine gingerly till it gets up to temp, i also dont take off straight away, just let the oil pressure come up first.

its a diesel Mark2 i red the Owner's manual even a gas engine does have idling throttle knob, but i got no problem if it reaches the right temp. but its annoying to put it at 1300rpm every morning , that my neighbors might get angry

I think you might be confusing the hand throttle with a choke. On a diesel the hand throttle will only increase the revs, (its connected directly to the throttle cable) while a choke as found on a petrol engine richens the mixture by closing a plate in the carb to constrict the air flow and usually increases the revs at the same time.

My TD42 doesnt need any extra throttle/revs when its cold - it idles just as well cold or hot at about 750 rpm.

oic i just confused, but why is it the idling goes down in the morning, it start at 750 then a few minutes it will goes down until my engine will shake and die:?:

my td42 and many many others i have worked with, i have never se them with a choke, or have never had a problem of them being cold, just turn the key and they idle as good as they do hot.

My guess is your idle is set too low now, there could be a fair few reasons for this and I dare say I am not familiar with them all but it could be air in the lines, a poor injector pump, a fuel filter and/or air filter badly gummed up.
I know for a fact (from my engine) that a new fuel filter will increase the base idle speed even over a half used one.
I would put a new fuel filter in to see what it does then check out the air filter, A discolored air filter element is usually OK - it would need to be pretty badly gummed up to not allow the 50 or so cfm needed to idle easily.

cheers fnq

had same problem when one way valve in lift pump went all i did was fit an electric fuel pump near the tank witch came on with key till i had it rebuilt

Hey xenith where is the lift pump on these things, might be a good place to fix a kill switch onto.

cheers fnq

lift pump is part of injector pump has a vane type not electric

thanks guys, it might be an air in my fuel line system, ill make to check it by a mechanic. you may still give me more ideas ang pointers what would it be, suggest me what to do

godspeed wrote:thanks guys, it might be an air in my fuel line system, ill make to check it by a mechanic. you may still give me more ideas ang pointers what would it be, suggest me what to do

I think that the air in the diesel theory is right i had the same dramas make sure that your fuel filter is very tight mine is a cav style filter and can be a pain in the glass to stop the air leak

I can't give you any personal experience regarding your particular issues with the idle dropping (in my experience it increases slightly), but I remember reading something on another forum (GQ owners forum) about rust holes (?) developing in the fuel lines (and allowing air to seep into the line) where they go around the rear diff housing. The recommendation was to replace the line with rubber fuel line.

Ahhh... Here it is:
Quote from GQ Owners Forum:
"I replaced my fuel lines on my 92 patrol as they where rusted through and sucking in air. The worst point on my patrol is where the lines go over the top of the suspension turret at the back. I just replaced with rubber ones rather than using metal again. Problem solved" /End Quote.

If it's any help, I've got my hand throttle set to idle around 700 - 750 rpm when hot. When starting cold, I turn on the aircon as this ups the idle to around 1000rpm and let it run for a couple of minutes. Rarely do I need to adjust the hand throttle. Plus I get the added bonus of circulating the air con regularly.

I try not to drive it stone cold, but if I have to (like the bottle shop's about to shut ) then I just drive it nice and quitely until it reaches operating temperature.

Mate
That is a cold start device which I think merely opens your throttle a bit but you should never need it in OZ. I have one on my GQ here in Scotland and have never needed it. It is a hand throttle on some other models.
Alex