Outer Limits 4x4 Board

When I was gving the Landcruiser engine bay a hose down to get all the mud out from driving around Wombat yesterday I noticed a few drops of green liquid (looked like radiator fluid) sitting on what appears to be a join in the radiator (top plastic bit to bottom bit where the fins are). Is this actually a join and could it leak there?
If so I might have to hit it with some of that metal putty to seal it up. Would putty seal it up OK?

Emo, the plastic tanks are crimped onto the header plate assembly. If you look closely you'll see the bent over tags securing the plastic tank. If it's leaking from the tank it could be a stuffed "O ring" which seals the plastic tank. You don't say where along the tank it's leaking from, if its very close to the the top radiator hose inlet pipe it could be an eroded plastic tank from the constant flow of hot coolant eventually eating through the plastic tank. I'd have a radiator guy have a look at it, it could be something as simple as a "re crimp" on the tank to apply a bit more pressure on the tank and O ring.
Regards Andrew.

Thanks for the info. The leak (if it is one) is about in the middle. Yeah, it was around the area where it appears to be crimped. Strange looking set up for a radiator. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and see if I see more fluid.

Emo wrote:Thanks for the info. The leak (if it is one) is about in the middle. Yeah, it was around the area where it appears to be crimped. Strange looking set up for a radiator. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and see if I see more fluid.

Dont waste too much money on it, when they replace the o ring it could still be stuffed if the core has a slight buckle..

I wasted money trying to get it fixed & pressure tested. Ended up buying a new radiator from repco which has STEEL tanks so no more problems....

Toy80Diesel wrote:

Emo wrote:Thanks for the info. The leak (if it is one) is about in the middle. Yeah, it was around the area where it appears to be crimped. Strange looking set up for a radiator. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days and see if I see more fluid.

Dont waste too much money on it, when they replace the o ring it could still be stuffed if the core has a slight buckle..

I wasted money trying to get it fixed & pressure tested. Ended up buying a new radiator from repco which has STEEL tanks so no more problems....

As a matter of interest, what did the new radiator cost you?

Emo wrote:As a matter of interest, what did the new radiator cost you?

Ummm, can't recall exactly but around the $400 mark.
What made it worse was paying the radiator guy for his time spent trying to fix my old one. Luckily I did the labour myself (remove/fit) as its quite a big job to get to the four bolts that hold it in. Lights, batteries, a/cond condensor (just loosen it a little for access). I got away without removing the fan.

If its a diesel, dont forget to drain the engine coolant from the side plug on the motor so you don't mix old and new coolant when you refill.

And keep changing the coolant every year as I was told it eats up that o-ring in the raditor tanks!!!

Natrad $350 with your ends...if u want to repair yours, remember the bottom tank might be next to go, the top tank and seal is the minimum fix, think u will find your top tank has cracked.
Andrew

Just changed my radiator last weekend to a steel one, it cost $495.
It was a shiat job had to remove battery tray and top radiator support, bonnet latch etc, just to get the top two bolts.
Took about 4 hrs hard labour.

Coighty wrote:Just changed my radiator last weekend to a steel one, it cost $495.
It was a shiat job had to remove battery tray and top radiator support, bonnet latch etc, just to get the top two bolts.
Took about 4 hrs hard labour.

I got to the two top bolts by loosening the condensor and moving it a few mm's to either side just enough to clear a socket. Didn't take off the support or the bonnet latch.

But yeah I agree it is a few hours work because its fiddly, so better to do the labour yourself and save some money there.

Picked up this tip from somewhere...remove the top rad support and the grill and centre support for the latch....now u can get to everything without loosing the battery trays and lights.
Andrew

dow50r wrote:Picked up this tip from somewhere...remove the top rad support and the grill and centre support for the latch....now u can get to everything without loosing the battery trays and lights.
Andrew

Thats how i got mine out when i did the front seal.

dow50r wrote:Natrad $350 with your ends...if u want to repair yours, remember the bottom tank might be next to go, the top tank and seal is the minimum fix, think u will find your top tank has cracked.
Andrew

I think you'll find the bottom tank will be fine, it's always the top tank which seems to cause problems.
Regards Andrew.