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Repairing internal roof lining in a vehicle
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:45 am
by Goatse.AJ
Just wondering if anybody can help with advice on reattaching the internal roof lining in a workmate's VP commodore? The whole lot has come adrift and is sagging.
I was thinking along the lines of either a spray adhesive or possibily injecting adhesive into the gap and applying pressure to stick it back on.
How to motor trimmers normally do this?
Thanks in anticiapation.
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:52 am
by Dave_aj
I just got a new one in my VR about a year ago. Cost $150 from memory.
looked at doing it myself but it seemed not worth it for the money for a new one.
looks smick as the new foam is alot better and doesnt crumble every time somebody touches it.
Cheers
Dave
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:16 am
by MARKx4
It is easier to get a new roof lining, remove the old one and stick the new one in. We done it to my old VN and will be doing it soon to my VS wagon
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 2:53 pm
by Goatse.AJ
Thanks for the replies guys. Any ideas on cheapest options for a new one?
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:21 pm
by r0ck_m0nkey
I am going to guess it's a one piece molded type?
If thats the case, undo all things like visors trims and such and get the thing out. Strip it of all material, any foam still attached to the board can be quickly burnt off with a blow torch. Making sure it's quick sweeps with the flame as to only burn the foam and not the board, far quicker for getting the bulk of it off then trying to scrape it off.
Now clean the board till it's smooth, even the smallest of bumps from old material will show up. Go buy some cheap foam backed velour, doesn't have to be expensive, it will never see the sun so doesn't need to be great quality. Get a spray adhesive and sticxk the velour onto the board. Press down gently with palm of hand to take out wrinkles and to get it to stick. Don't use your finger tips, any indentations made with them will become permanant. Then out with the knife and trim the edges, folding around any edges and glueing if any need it.
Stick it back in and you're done. Should cost less the $50 (dependant on material used) to do yourself and only a couple of hours labour.
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:36 pm
by MARKx4
r0ck_m0nkey wrote:I am going to guess it's a one piece molded type?
If thats the case, undo all things like visors trims and such and get the thing out. Strip it of all material, any foam still attached to the board can be quickly burnt off with a blow torch. Making sure it's quick sweeps with the flame as to only burn the foam and not the board, far quicker for getting the bulk of it off then trying to scrape it off.
Now clean the board till it's smooth, even the smallest of bumps from old material will show up. Go buy some cheap foam backed velour, doesn't have to be expensive, it will never see the sun so doesn't need to be great quality. Get a spray adhesive and sticxk the velour onto the board. Press down gently with palm of hand to take out wrinkles and to get it to stick. Don't use your finger tips, any indentations made with them will become permanant. Then out with the knife and trim the edges, folding around any edges and glueing if any need it.
Stick it back in and you're done. Should cost less the $50 (dependant on material used) to do yourself and only a couple of hours labour.
When you buy the replacement ones they are allready the one peice replacment ones. The little extra money you save in relining the old one is taken up in time. Talk to holden for a price or try places like coventry auto parts.
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:59 pm
by G_loomis
r0ck_m0nkey wrote:I am going to guess it's a one piece molded type?
If thats the case, undo all things like visors trims and such and get the thing out. Strip it of all material, any foam still attached to the board can be quickly burnt off with a blow torch. Making sure it's quick sweeps with the flame as to only burn the foam and not the board, far quicker for getting the bulk of it off then trying to scrape it off.
Now clean the board till it's smooth, even the smallest of bumps from old material will show up. Go buy some cheap foam backed velour, doesn't have to be expensive, it will never see the sun so doesn't need to be great quality. Get a spray adhesive and sticxk the velour onto the board. Press down gently with palm of hand to take out wrinkles and to get it to stick. Don't use your finger tips, any indentations made with them will become permanant. Then out with the knife and trim the edges, folding around any edges and glueing if any need it.
Stick it back in and you're done. Should cost less the $50 (dependant on material used) to do yourself and only a couple of hours labour.
Pretty much spot on there...but a rough brush would be better to get rid of the old lining off the mould...no risk of burning it at all then! Thats what we use in the trimming game.
And another thing to be aware of....after to stick the new velour on, go around and cut the holes for the visors/panis handles and so one. (we generally just cut a small cross pattern with a stanley knife). But the mould will probably have holes in it for a panic handle on the driver side...obviously DO NOT cut these if you car does not have a panic handle on that side. And trust...its easy to do
I cant recall right now what sort of plastic moulds are surrounding the hood linig, but take care in removing...some get very brittle over time and can/will snap in your hamd as you are trying to pry them off.
Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:58 pm
by r0ck_m0nkey
G_loomis wrote:Pretty much spot on there...but a rough brush would be better to get rid of the old lining off the mould...no risk of burning it at all then! Thats what we use in the trimming game.
I always took the shortcut of blow torch first when helping my old man in his trimming shop.
It's surprisingly effective, came about after one troublsome lining that just didn't want to scrape off. Obviously never hold the flame in one spot to close.