Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thought I might share some pics of another GQ diff install.

Trussing is 75X75X5 SHS backed up underneath the bolt on mount and underneath the SHS with 10mm plate.
Mounts are set up to use GQ lower trailing arms from diff to original point on Rangie chassis. Still deciding on where shock mounts will be.
Bolt on mount is from a 110 with rear Sals.


Next, the question.
Has anyone had experience 'attaching' new engine mounts to a Rangie chassis? I'll be using 100X100X6 SHS on the chassis side of the mount and am trying to decide between welding it on, two vertical welds and one top and bottom on the radius between the side and top and bottom face of the chassis, or welding four crush tubes into the chassis and bolting it on?

Cheers
Daryl

Are you goint to make up new arms to have a pin, or weld mounts to the chassis?

derangedrover wrote:Mounts are set up to use GQ lower trailing arms from diff to original point on Rangie chassis. Still deciding on where shock mounts will be.

Cheers
Daryl

Might want to consider replacing the tubing in the GQ rear arms as they are weak as p#@s standard. I cut mine out and replaced them with about 5 mm wall tube ... std was around 1.5 mm and I've seen them snap real easy.

Other than that ... diff conversion looks good.

Cheers
Simo

The mounts in the pic bolt to the chassis where the rover arms did. Made using the centre plate from a poly chassis bush and GQ upper link mount that was cut off the diff. Lower links now have more triangulation than rover setup due to mounts being further apart on diff.

I know the GQ stock links are weak, but will see how anal the engineer is going to be. If he wants fabbed arms xrayed, ill get it engineered on stock links and change out after, if he'll play ball with fabricated links then all is good, I'll fab some new ones. But then I guess he wont like the chassis link mount bracket either if he wont allow fabbed arms without xray

Just moved to NSW from outback QLD so haven't sorted an engineer yet.

Cheers
Daryl

Nice.

So this is a Nissan H233 rearend?

What did you do to prevent it from warping while welding the truss?

Yep, Nissan H233.

Basically I just welded everything 25mm at a time and let it cool. Took a while to stitch the truss on!! I used a straight edge to check it as I went, and if it moved at all it was less than I could measure.

Cheers
Daryl