Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i was wondering what people have used for there air tanks. ive got a truck tank but its two big and an old fire extinguisher but i cant get a fitting for it.

Give Geno at Opposite Lock in Braybrook a call he supplied mine, an alloy unit for about $45. Has been fine & easy to mount, a few of my mates also use em. Good luck. Tell him Dallas said he'd look after you!

robbo dont happen to know of the dimensions for it and how did you mount it. thanks chris

to mount my tank i might have to rill some holes in my chassis will this weeken it or should i aviod doing this and make up some other type of bracket could i weld to the chassis will this be ok.

Goto a truck wrecker and find another size, there are about 23947820498203948023984023984092384 sizes in truck tanks.

Saw Rod at Total pick one up about 12-18inch long 4inch round for a GQ, $15

Volvo or other euro trucks usually have an array of small diameter tanks to choose from.

My whole tray is my air tank

Its 16cm long plus 2 small mounting feet & 8cm accross alloy & strong. Hope that helps.

Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.

the EAS model rangies come with 9L air tanks about the same size as a 9l fire exting tank. Most LR joints sell them. I was luck cause my rangie had EAS when i baught it (now has coils) so i kept the tank. from memory it can hold about 2.1 bar (200 + psi) and has std fittings on it that 99% of truck places stock and even repco / bursons etc. Never had a problem with it and it nice and small. Also truck bits in dandi had 30L tanks that are also good that cost abot $75 problem is thay are big.

Mick

what is a good size tank to run?
only needed for pumping up tyres
i got an air horn tank prob about 6l
will that do

1l would probably do for tyres if you had an A/C unit type air comp.

6l is fine but u might have problems running air tools

9l does everything tools/horn/dizzy/tyres

30l blowing up buildings!!

If you go to the truck wreckers and get "wet tank" from a 94 or latter Volvo truck they are 15l and ideal for what you need

RoldIT wrote:Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.

tank ends should be round to stand up to pressure.

RoldIT wrote:Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.

Good way to go boom..

thanks guys for the response i ended up getting the one from opposite lock for 50 bucks and will use it now and when the body lift goes in i will but my truck tank in.

CRUSHU wrote:

RoldIT wrote:Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.

tank ends should be round to stand up to pressure.

I wouldn't expect 5mm plate is gunna go boom at 100-150psi.

Pirahna sell a small rectagular tank for running air lockers and is certainly isn't 5mm think. If I'm correct, ARB pressure switches run around 100psi. I wasn't exactly talking exhaust pipe here ...

RoldIT wrote:
Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.



tank ends should be round to stand up to pressure.


I wouldn't expect 5mm plate is gunna go boom at 100-150psi.

Pirahna sell a small rectagular tank for running air lockers and is certainly isn't 5mm think. If I'm correct, ARB pressure switches run around 100psi. I wasn't exactly talking exhaust pipe here ...

Tank ends being round is not so much to handle presure but more to do with not dist torting under pressure .
you pipe with ends welded on is simple and works as long as the welding is good (drill the holes first, or it may implode as it cools){seen it done scared the shit out of a whole workshop of welders.} also if safty a concern fit a pressure release valve $15 to $30 all said and done truck wrecker is the cheaper option. and if your not sure you can have the fire brigade hidrostaticly test it for you.(or they will tell you where to get it done) But the thing to remember is air under presure is dangerouse.

Heres the tank i found at the local truck wreckers for $25

it had 4 threaded holes already. Just needed to mount it.. Its been under there for the last 3 4wd'in trips and there is still no play in the mount.

If you go to a wreckers you might have better luck finding a tank witha bracket to make mounting easier.



by the way.. what capacity would you guys guess this to be? I have nfi.

whiteweaponlux wrote:

RoldIT wrote:
Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.



tank ends should be round to stand up to pressure.


I wouldn't expect 5mm plate is gunna go boom at 100-150psi.

Pirahna sell a small rectagular tank for running air lockers and is certainly isn't 5mm think. If I'm correct, ARB pressure switches run around 100psi. I wasn't exactly talking exhaust pipe here ...

Tank ends being round is not so much to handle presure but more to do with not dist torting under pressure .
you pipe with ends welded on is simple and works as long as the welding is good (drill the holes first, or it may implode as it cools){seen it done scared the shit out of a whole workshop of welders.} also if safty a concern fit a pressure release valve $15 to $30 all said and done truck wrecker is the cheaper option. and if your not sure you can have the fire brigade hidrostaticly test it for you.(or they will tell you where to get it done) But the thing to remember is air under presure is dangerouse.

I do not dispute any of what you've said but how many people run air in their roll bars and sliders? I'm pretty sure they didn't design them with air pressure safety in mind, yet I've never heard of any major failures due to them running them as tanks. That's more the point I was tying to make. Air tank design is there for a reason but standard air tanks are much greater diameter than 100mm or less tube with end caps.

whiteweaponlux wrote:But the thing to remember is air under presure is dangerouse.

No isn't, it is fun...

http://www.h2orocket.com/

Supply tank from either a Ford lt9000 or Acco work well. The drain valve is built into the end cap of the tank rather than the bottom so its better protected against getting ripped off. They come with 3 ports and are 40l in capacity

Nick

Truck wrecker has to be the way to go. My tank from a Ford Trader cost $33 including the bracket. Holds about 12 litres.

The tank:



Under the left rear guard of my Defender:



Paul

I do not dispute any of what you've said but how many people run air in their roll bars and sliders? I'm pretty sure they didn't design them with air pressure safety in mind, yet I've never heard of any major failures due to them running them as tanks. That's more the point I was tying to make. Air tank design is there for a reason but standard air tanks are much greater diameter than 100mm or less tube with end caps.

Yep couldnt agree more lots of comp truck use roll bars as tank
remember some times a little knowledge is dangerouse
Roll bars = (often, not always) Steam pipe or seamless normally for strength.
so it will handle the pressure any way.
Good to see ppl thinking bout what they are doing and setting in safty valves. ive seen pressure vessels ope them selves up flat, flinging bits of metal all over the place. not pretty if its near your donk or your fuel tank.
Good luck keep safe

the only concern with running your roll bar as an air tank would be the moisture generated by the compressor. You would have to run drains at each low point in the bar.

I would actually be more tempted to use my rock sliders, putting a 10mm plate on one end drill an tap a hole close to the bottum and put in a grub screw. But there are some excelent sealing products on the market...check out the range at http://www.por15.com they have some magic stuff for all sorts of tanks,... fuel/air/water.
And some good chassis stuff too but thats for another thread.
dont forget to cover you threads cos this stuf is quite hard to run a tap thru once it is dry.

CRUSHU wrote:

RoldIT wrote:Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.

tank ends should be round to stand up to pressure.

Tank ends need to be round because tanks are a large diameter and not ridiculously over-engineered like most rock slider slider/tanks. Over a 3-4" pipe there will be no difference if you use round ends or not, provided you use sufficient thickness material and can weld.

I made my tanks this way, I have 2 tanks that double as rock sliders. I used 2.5" gal pipe (somewhere between 4-6mm wall - (I made them a while ago)), the ends were made from 6mm, and I welded 10mm blocks on and then drilled and tapped them for the fittings. That was about 2 years ago and they haven't gone boom.

Each one holds about 9L. And the York compressor that fills them up is set to cut out at 120psi.

I put up a 16m timber fence running an industrial nail gun off the York and never once ran out of air.

ISUZUROVER wrote:

CRUSHU wrote:

RoldIT wrote:Get a piece of steel tube 3" - 4" dia, cut it to the length you want and weld some flat plates to the ends, tap some threads for fittings or drill and weld nuts on that are the right thread/size and ya done.

tank ends should be round to stand up to pressure.

Tank ends need to be round because tanks are a large diameter and not ridiculously over-engineered like most rock slider slider/tanks. Over a 3-4" pipe there will be no difference if you use round ends or not, provided you use sufficient thickness material and can weld.

I made my tanks this way, I have 2 tanks that double as rock sliders. I used 2.5" gal pipe (somewhere between 4-6mm wall - (I made them a while ago)), the ends were made from 6mm, and I welded 10mm blocks on and then drilled and tapped them for the fittings. That was about 2 years ago and they haven't gone boom.

Each one holds about 9L. And the York compressor that fills them up is set to cut out at 120psi.

I put up a 16m timber fence running an industrial nail gun off the York and never once ran out of air.

Exactly my original point.