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'88 SWB - EFI... Don't kill me please
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:51 pm
by mrx78u
Before you go burning me alive, i'm going to ask this.
As many threads before me have covered, the 2.6 magna EFI can be fitted to the 2.6 Pajero engine.
I know the details vaguely as it has been covered in earlier threads. I'm interested in doing this, or swapping for the 2.4 Triton engine, which has been mentioned before, but no one has been too sure about it as far as I can tell.
Anyway, what i'm after is some or even a pic of a vehicle that it has been done to. I'm not likely to do the work myself but, i'll need to find someone who can do it properly. (I hate automotive tradespeople at the moment... I won't go into why right now)
Also If anyone can suggest someone who can do the work around vic somewhere. (Preferably eastern 'burbs) That would be appreciated.
My reason for wanting to do such a pain in the assj job. Massive flat spot in acceleration, but the engine seems to make nice power after that... And bad fuel consumption.
Well my aspestos, flame proof suit is on (cough, cough) but any help would be appreciated.
Here's a pic of my rig anyway!
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:58 pm
by -Scott-
Massive flat spot was the symptom I had when a "friend" used a timing light to "slightly retard" my timing without disconnecting the vacuum advance.
Instead of knocking it back a degree, he reset it to 7 deg BTDC - at a fast idle, with the vacuum advance connected.
I guess I'm thinking it's a massive undertaking to fix what shouldn't be difficult. But I guess that could be the "hate automotive tradespeople" issue too...
Not exactly his normal line of work, but you could call Mark's Adaptors?
Cheers,
Scott
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:04 pm
by mrx78u
Cheers for that. I've tried to tune out the flat spot. Run it up to about 10 degrees BTDC from memory, didn't seem to help. I suspect it may be running a little lean, but the mixture adjustment on these carbs has been plugged and I'm in not really geared to be drilling holes in carby at the moment.
Also the auto choke seems to stay fully on (revs at about 2500) until it's fully warmed up.
I think part of the fuel consumption problem may be that it sits on the flatspot at cruising speeds.
Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:16 pm
by -Scott-
Did you get pinging while you were advancing your ignition?
I've got a Sigma with a 2.6 (and doing silly things with it - like twin DCOEs) and I'm not convinced that my timing mark is correct (not that I've checked, either...)
A mechanic once checked it, and told me it was over 30 deg BTDC.
He put it back to where he thought it should be, and it ran like a dog. I've got the dizzy so far advanced that it's a bugger to start, but I don't get pinging. If I retard it at all, it starts coughing a farting. I paid an auto-electrician to check the advance curve, and they told me it's fine - I don't think I believe them.
Throw away your timing light, advance your timing and take it for a drive. Keep advancing until you get pinging, then knock it back until you don't - that's how I've always set my timing. And don't worry about damage to your engine from a few seconds of pinging. I had a 1700 Saturn running 10.5:1, which would occasionally ping terribly (like when I ran out of fuel, and had to fill it with regular instead of premium.) When I stripped the engine down for the last time the pistons were fine.
Hang on - lean, you say? Accelerator pump jet working?
Scott
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:24 am
by mrx78u
Carbies aren't really somthing i'm really familiar with (excpet SU's). Accelerator pump jet? I'm probably going to have to pull the carb off soon anyhow, so I should probably have a look.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 10:56 am
by -Scott-
Take the air cleaner off so you can look down the barrel (and open the choke butterfly if it's closed.) By whatever means, snap the throttle open quickly, and hold it open, while looking down the carburettor.
You should see a stream of fuel pump into one barrel for a few seconds. If you don't see a stream, or you only get a dribble, I'd say that's your flat spot.
Cheers,
Scott
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:14 pm
by mrx78u
Hmm ok, i'll have a look at that.
Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 5:33 pm
by known 2
if u still wana do a engine swap don't go the triton 2.4 it's gutless even in a 2wd ute. i'm not sure but maybe the 2.5tdi will bolt up no wories but u'd better ask the mitsu guru's about that one.
Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 2:48 pm
by mrx78u
Alright... Decided to go poking for the slight coolant leak I have somewhere. Yep seems unrelated (it is) sort of
Anyway, before taking off the inlet manifold and carby and things, I though i'd have a look at the thermostat. (I knew it wasn't the cause for the leak, but I hadn't checked it yet)
Well well, the thermostat worked... sort of. Replaced it, flat spot fixed
And to think I was going to disable the automatic choke thinking that It could have been the problem.
I'll have to set the timing back to 5 degrees BTDC, where it should be. (it's about 8 BDTC at the moment) and see how she goes. Hopefully fixes the fuel consumption as well.
It seems that the 2.6 is prone to tuning problems and such things from what I have read. Flat spots and the like. Well at least mine seems to be a simple solution.
Cheers Lads!
Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 9:16 pm
by hudson44
I would leave it at 8 degrees if there's no pinging. There's no harm in having it slightly advanced with no pinging. Might even get better performance and/or fuel economy!
'88 SWB - EFI... Don't kill me please
Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 6:57 am
by constapa
hudson44 wrote:I would leave it at 8 degrees if there's no pinging. There's no harm in having it slightly advanced with no pinging. Might even get better performance and/or fuel economy!
YES! i agree. I have at 8 degrees and there is no pinging but there is a slightly better performance. I think it's a common trick in many engines...
cheers
Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 8:41 pm
by Youngy
mrx78u wrote:Cheers for that. I've tried to tune out the flat spot. Run it up to about 10 degrees BTDC from memory, didn't seem to help. I suspect it may be running a little lean, but the mixture adjustment on these carbs has been plugged and I'm in not really geared to be drilling holes in carby at the moment.
Also the auto choke seems to stay fully on (revs at about 2500) until it's fully warmed up.
I think part of the fuel consumption problem may be that it sits on the flatspot at cruising speeds.
Hi mate i have just had the same probs with my 1984 swb Pajero 2.6 , i took the standard carb off and replaced it with a 34/36 DGV Webber and put it on gas/petrol and my flat spots are gone ps you must do your timming from the start with a timming light if you have any props go to the your local spanners.
Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 3:00 pm
by mrx78u
I'm intrigued... So you found a carby which is jetted to suit. What's it off? And where'd you source the manifold?
I'm interested in doing this. Unless it's going to cost alot that is. What are you going to do about the air filter? If you use the rampod type thing on the top of the carb, won't you pick up alot of dust and crap?
Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 6:41 pm
by Youngy
mrx78u wrote:I'm intrigued... So you found a carby which is jetted to suit. What's it off? And where'd you source the manifold?
I'm interested in doing this. Unless it's going to cost alot that is. What are you going to do about the air filter? If you use the rampod type thing on the top of the carb, won't you pick up alot of dust and crap?
You Need a
*
32/36 DGV DOWN DRAFT WEBBER $150.00 "
off ebay or weckers"
*
ADAPTER PLATE $40.00 "CAN BYE AT ANY AUTO SHOP"
*12mm open/ringy $SHOULD HAVE ONE
*GASKET GLUE $10.00
*YOUR JETS SIZE FROM OLD CARBY OR EMAIL
mlpcarb@myrealbox.com
*TIMMING LIGHT "U HAVE IT REDO YOUR TIMMING
*AIR FILTER TO SUIT OR MAKE IT UP OUT OF YOUR OLD ONE CUT IT
GO TO THIS LINK 1
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WEBBER-32-36-DGV ... dZViewItem
AND THIS ONE 2
http://stores.ebay.com.au/MLP-Carburett ... idZ2QQtZkm
Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 7:52 pm
by -Scott-
Youngy wrote:*YOUR JETS FROM OLD CARBY $FREE
Jets from the stock Paj carby fitting a Weber?
Please explain?
Scott
Posted: Mon May 08, 2006 8:43 pm
by Youngy
Jets from the stock Paj carby fitting a Weber?
Please explain?
sorry i will fix that ???????
Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 4:12 pm
by mrx78u
Youngy,
Cheers for that. Have you tested on a decent incline yet? How much truth is there behing these not working well for 4wds because they starve the engine of fuel on a good slope?
Posted: Tue May 09, 2006 7:53 pm
by Youngy
mrx78u wrote:Youngy,
Cheers for that. Have you tested on a decent incline yet? How much truth is there behing these not working well for 4wds because they starve the engine of fuel on a good slope?
Put a electric fuel pump here is a link for u
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/High-Volume-Elec ... dZViewItem
i have put one on mine because i had that prop so i yes what the hell i will give it ago and it works ive been on some steep hills were the only thing to save me from roll back down was my winch me and 4 of my mates all have the same year model pajeros and we all have the webbers in now
Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 12:45 pm
by mrx78u
Ok sweet, I think i'll give it a go. Can't loose more than a few hundred $s. Although I'm not sure about finding someone to rejet the carb for me. I'm not so sure if I want to be pulling apart the weber. Last carby I worked on was a twin SU setup for my mini
Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 1:53 pm
by -Scott-
Changing jets on Webers is quick and easy (most of them...)
Trouble is the complexities you can run into: idle fuel, idle air correction, main fuel, main air correction, pump jet, pump return, emulsion tube, primary venturi, secondary venturi. It's generally pretty easy to change these items, but determining what needs changing (and what to put in) can be the problem.
Good luck,
Scott
Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 2:16 pm
by mrx78u
Corrected jet settings. Not from pajero, but from 2.6 magna of all things.
- Idle Primary: .60
Idle Secondary: .55
Primary Fuel: 1.40
Primary Air: 1.60
Secondary Fuel: 1.65
Secondary Air: 1.80
Fuel pressure 3-4psi. (3psi reccomended)
The setup i'm thinking of using will be as follows...
- 32/36 DVG manual choke weber with above jet settings.
Repco brand 4-6psi electric fuel pump. Mechanical pump removed and blanked off. This will be located near the fuel tank with a fuel filter between it and the tank. The pump will be wired up from the + side of the ignition coil with a relay setup from an oil pressure switch to cut the fuel in case the engine stalls for safety reasons.
Small surge tank located in the engine bay with three outlets, these will be configured as with the lower outlet going to the weber, the middle will be the line from the fuel pump and the upper will connect to the fuel return line.
Fuel pressure regulator on the fuel return line.
I've tried to put together as much info as possible to get it right first go, but if anyone sees anything wrong with this setup, please let me know.
P.S. I've never worked on a weber before.