Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Howdy all,
Will soon be chopping the rear 1/4 panels and making a new rear bar to match (95 LWB GQ patrol)

Would like to possibly incorporate some small lights into the rear bar (if the design is right).

Have all the appropriate tools ie bender, welder etc etc.

Does anybody have some photos of some rear bars, including mounting points etc to give a poor soul a few ideas.....


Cheers,
THOMO

anybody

thomo.in.a.gq wrote:anybody

there are a few threads on this in the past, thats probably why nobody has replied.

Not sure if you only want to use tubing, but if not, heres a simple design.
Have seen the tail lights mounted inside, and extra pieces added where rear 1/4's have been cut off.
Makes a good tow/recovery point too with the removable hitch.

http://www.equip4.co.nz/rear%20bumper.htm

thomo

post your email address and I will email u a pic of my simple but effective rear bar

....

thanks for that.....

Does anybody mount the ends of their bar onto the chassis behind the tyres for extra strenght??

Or is that not a good idea?

Heres some off MY OLD RIG YES ITS FINALLY GOOOONE

here's what I came up with
mines a '92 but i got '89 tail lights from the wreckers and wired 'em in or you could use hella LED's

thanks heaps guys....

I think i will have a crack at a similar bar to A1mav as i have a bit of checker plate hanging around home.

I like the look of the LEDs, but they are just as dear as new taillights. I am thinking of getting some small hella trailer lights and mounting them on the bar, plus wiring up the original lights on the vehicle....

Will post some pics once I am done..... Just need to find a bit of spare time first.

Ok, finally did the 1/4 cut. Some pics for those thinking of doing the same


cut about 2cm under the fold line






This is how it looks underneath


Fold over the 2cm or so underneath to give a straight line. Use tin snips to put a few cuts in the overhang before bending it.


Then fill the hole. I used 2mm chequerplate then self tappered it to the 2cm overhang. Also put on a heap of sikaflex to glue it into place and fill any little holes for the water to get into. Then whacked some expanding foam into the panels to dampen any noise from stones etc hitting the steel



ran a bit of body filler round the edge of the plate to neaten it up, with a small amount of spray paint on the same.


Now for the rear bar

What sort of size tube are you guys using for the rear bars? I'm getting organised to do exactly the same mod this weekend. Cheers, Paul

any more

beretta wrote:What sort of size tube are you guys using for the rear bars? I'm getting organised to do exactly the same mod this weekend. Cheers, Paul

All my old tube wrk was outta 40 nominal bore 4mm wall thickness ( rear and sliders , front bar was same wall thickness smaller diameter )



Dan

A1MAV wrote:

beretta wrote:What sort of size tube are you guys using for the rear bars? I'm getting organised to do exactly the same mod this weekend. Cheers, Paul

All my old tube wrk was outta 40 nominal bore 4mm wall thickness ( rear and sliders , front bar was same wall thickness smaller diameter )



Dan

Sweet thanks Dan.

Any tips on getting the bends spot on?

Any tips on getting the bends spot on?

You can buy bends and weld them on, its pretty hard to bend 8mm pipe.

Heres a couple of pics of my bar, if i was to do it again, i would bring the sides out a bit more to protect the sides even more.

Cheers Julian

the pic of the first bar is the exact same as mine or perhaps is mine but i can guarantee that the strenght in the corner is capable of supporting the weight, cause i have drop the car for 2 feet straight onto the bar and notheing moved, so a well designed bar does not need to loop back and attach to the chassis

here's mine





Exhaust no longer hangs down that low. I prefer this rather than tube because its easier to stand on and stronger, I've also used my hi lift on it a couple of times and I think it would be more stable then tube. Each to their own though.

I got dave (80lsy gq) to knock this up to my specs.

I wanted steel C section rather than a tube bar, so it would match the front bullbar and look a little bit more stock.

Be warned its freaking heavy - 5mm thick.


It's not quite hung right due to the rush to get it on for one of the night trips and we've both been a bit short of time to sort it out since then. It's not representative of his usual standard of work.

Even as it is when the missus backed the 4by into a concrete pole (the first and only time she's driven it) it came out completely unscathed.

so now we have seen the pics, who wants to make me one ?

ive noticed in some of the pics that the towbar is incorperated does it affect towing weights etc and have they been cut up to fit or has the whole rear bar been built of the towbar itself

I don't know the original towing capacity with the nissan tow hitch but I do know my one is a hell of a lot stronger. It bloody weighs enough.

fair enough so did you guys cut the towbar up and fit the hitch in or use the towbar as a base built in from there

i just noticed that you dont live to far from me you dont want to make another one do ya

fair enough so did you guys cut the towbar up and fit the hitch in or use the towbar as a base built in from there

luckily enough my old man had a length of the right size square tube, aparenttly its pretty rare.

ive noticed in some of the pics that the towbar is incorperated does it affect towing weights etc and have they been cut up to fit or has the whole rear bar been built of the towbar itself

the whole bar has been built with a towbar in it, but it looked like with just four bolts on the sides of the chassis rails it might flex cause the tow bar is under the four bolts. If you know what i mean So to fix this we put flat bar at the end of the towbar part and put it back up to the fuel tank mounts. It may be over kill but it will stop flexin if it does happen

Cheers Julian

is there any legality issues with making a tow bar, do they need to be tested etc

GRINCH wrote:is there any legality issues with making a tow bar, do they need to be tested etc

Interesting question.. I would hazard a guess of yes since what could go wrong if it DID go pearshaped.

ok, finally got some time to make the rear bar.
Used 10mm plate as the mounts and incorporated some tow points into them by making them stick out past the bar, then oxying a hole in each side.

The pipe is 48mm outer diameter with a 3mm wall, so should be strong enough for my useage.

The side bars are then mounted back onto the chassis by use of plates and bolts.

Retained the original tow bar.

All i need to do now is put some chequer plate on top of the bar to form a step and shes done.

Thanks for everybodys input, came in handy

Here are a couple of pics.