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welding diff housing-diff protector-
Posted: Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:04 pm
by pootrol
what lengths do i need to go to to weld on steel to protect the diff pumpkins.remove centres,axles etc.can i just weld as is with oil and change oils afterward.
Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 6:29 am
by cutzook
you can weld it as it is, just be careful not to put bucket loads of heat into it as it may warp the housing. i would drain the oil before you start cause there is only one thing worse than the smell of old diff oil, and that is burning diff oil.
i cant see it damaging the centre or axles. it should be fine.
cheers joel
Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:49 am
by awill4x4
cutzook wrote:you can weld it as it is, just be careful not to put bucket loads of heat into it as it may warp the housing. i would drain the oil before you start cause there is only one thing worse than the smell of old diff oil, and that is burning diff oil.
i cant see it damaging the centre or axles. it should be fine.
cheers joel
In actual fact you may be better off leaving the oil in as a thin film of oil will catch fire much quicker than something submerged in oil. You can then drain the oil afterwards.
Regards Andrew.
Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 1:46 pm
by matthewK
you do want enough penitration good enough so when you do hit it it dosent ripp off first go,have a bukect of water near by with rag so when you put your bead down you can cool it off fast with the old rag into the water then onto the weld,
afterward i would change the oil probly been sitting there a while anyways
Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 3:55 pm
by jeep97tj
I just welded my half pipe caps on with 3x red hot 15mm welds, 1 each end then 1 at the bottom, then let it cool slowly. I then ran 2 more red hot welds 15mm long between the other welds and let it cool a bit, then more red hot welds between the others and let it cool and just keeped doing that. If u dont get nice red hot welds they arnt going to be strong enough and cooling them down straight away will make them, brittle i think?
Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 8:28 pm
by mickyd555
matthewK wrote:you do want enough penitration good enough so when you do hit it it dosent ripp off first go,have a bukect of water near by with rag so when you put your bead down you can cool it off fast with the old rag into the water then onto the weld,
afterward i would change the oil probly been sitting there a while anyways
im no guru, but i thought cooling a weld quikly was the worst thing you could do???
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 12:14 pm
by redzook
just weld it with oil in there as it help keep it cool
i wouldnt even drain and replace the oil afterwards
and dont cool it as itll weaken and make it warp more then letting it cool naturally
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 6:33 pm
by pootrol
thanks fellas thats great help time to start fabricating then bouncing off rocks with the diffs wont be a prob any more.............

Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:27 pm
by matthewK
small shit i through water on it to cool faster not suposed to but i do
dosent have to be really red hot as long as it penerates some under cut can be a sign of this
but what do i know im only a apprentice boilermaker
Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:19 pm
by jeep97tj
I was thinking red hot after watching boilys weld wear strips onto digger buckets, they sit there for ages heating buckets in order to get a strong weld.