Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I just bought an 80 on the weekend and have just done an oil change and now it has a knock coming from the bottom of the engine, any ideas what it could be?

How many K's? IIRC The 1HDT motors have a habit of throwing Big ends after about 100,000kms.... PM Dumbdunce and dont drive it...

PM Dumbdunce and dont drive it...[/quote]

x2

You sure you put oil back into the engine?

Now don't get shirty but I have heard sillier thinks happening.

If the engine is heavily worn the PO may have been running a very heavy grade of oil and it was masking the engine noises.

You have provided zero info on the vehicle and age which makes it pretty tough.
If its big ends you would be wise not to drive it - initial sounds are like tappet noise but gets worse......then bang.
Big ends are a $400 job at a decent workshop or a days job for you if you know what you are doing.

my bad its an 1990 GXL TD, 285 000 on the clock, manual, full time 4WD running 265/75/16 bgf muddies and im guessing standard height but it is aftermarket suspension.

I used the oil i got from the original owner penrite 50w.

And its actually more of a rately, tiny noise then a knock.

So i did put oil in it (lmao)

Also should i change oil every 5000 or 10000. The oil i drained was at 5000 and was still very clean (compared to my hilux 2.8)

sniper wrote:my bad its an 1990 GXL TD, 285 000 on the clock, manual, full time 4WD running 265/75/16 bgf muddies and im guessing standard height but it is aftermarket suspension.

I used the oil i got from the original owner penrite 50w.

And its actually more of a rately, tiny noise then a knock.

So i did put oil in it (lmao)

Also should i change oil every 5000 or 10000. The oil i drained was at 5000 and was still very clean (compared to my hilux 2.8)

Stay with 5000km intervals. Direct injectors are always much cleaner. It should be honey coloured at 2500km and dark honey at 5000km. Some people change filters at 10k and oil every 5k.

The 90 was in the age group with big end issues. They failed anywhere between 80k and 300k although most before the later. Do you know if they have been done?
Rattly tinny noise? Hard to say you probably need someone to hear it to comment....particularly location it is coming from.

Cold injectors rattle....direct injection particularly. It may be just you having the sensitive ears after an oil change.
The later multivalves like mine have a PITA tick from the crankshaft which sounds rattly when amplied against road barriers.

its definetly comin from the bottom, but wasnt present before the oil and flitler change. I only just got the cruiser friday night from canberra (i live in campbelltown) drove it home slept for 3hrs then off to tuff truck and back home where i then after about 2 hours done the oil and filter change.

I drive to the city most days for work 120km return trip or there abouts.

sniper wrote:its definetly comin from the bottom, but wasnt present before the oil and flitler change. I only just got the cruiser friday night from canberra (i live in campbelltown) drove it home slept for 3hrs then off to tuff truck and back home where i then after about 2 hours done the oil and filter change.

I drive to the city most days for work 120km return trip or there abouts.

Check your harmonic balancer. If it is separating you can have a major issue.
Thing with engine noises is they reflect around inside the block.

Is it rev variable or constant?

I think it has something to do with the penrite 50w oil....the turbo motor should run 15w40
Andrew

It is variable its there but it follows the revs.

The oil is what the other owner was using i was wondering though, i bought a ford that came also from canberra funny enough and i used the oil the gave also. Was like a 15w, worked shocking. I put it down to the different temps in sydney. Changed it to a 50w (i think) and not a prob.
I run a 60w in the runner would that be a better weight to use?

Don't see how a 50w oil will make it knock unless it has serious oil pump issues causing insufficient oiling with a heavier oil...and if it was running that oil before it should not be the problem.

So anyway increases with revs...louder or no change?
You have checked the engine bay for something loose?

How about does it change when you put your foot on the clutch, depress the clutch or does it change when you are mobile

Mate had a 1HZ with a strange knock. Came over to my place I suggested front of engine as source ie harmonic balancer. He took it to a diesel workshop who wouldn't let him drive it away as it was about to let go.
It may have been that the run you took it on was enough for it to start to let go, particularly if the main nut has been undone at anytime. It is tensioned with something stupid like 500ftlb of torque which = 3/4 drive and long bar to do it.

Of course you may have just dropped something into the engine bay that is rattling away.

I've got a 91 1HD-T and it has all sorts of rattles, could it be piston slap Does it get quiter after it has warmed up? or possibly big ends. I replaced mine not long after I got it. They had been done in 1994 when I pulled them there was some wear on most but a couple were worn significantly, it's not too hard a job just a PITA getting oil dripped in your face all the time. Throw out bearing could be another prob as said above. Mine rattles around 2000rpm which could be timing or diaphram on side of pump. Previous owner may have used oil thickener before selling to quiten it down a bit.

hi deos it have oil pressure . check tha pump

ok, its not there when the car is first started, comes after a minute or few. It follows the rev range dosnt get loader just follows the revs. The more i rev the more tapping it makes.

Have checked the engine bay nothin there. Is the same oil as previous so musnt be that. Will be checking my harmonic balancer tomorrow. Will it be loose or would just the bolt be loose?

It dosnt effect the power or anything (and baby what power grrrr) just anoys the crap out of me as it wasnt there before, so something is definetly a miss.

I will be getting the big ends changed anyways for safety(my wallet) reasons as well as changing all oils diffs, gearbox, transfer. Also changing timing belt, and tensioner. Hopefully this will lead me to many safe years of driving.

BUT WHAT THE HELL IS THIS NOISE

Sniper, did you find the source of the noise? I put my 75 (1HZ) into the workshop today with exactly the same noise, exactly the same symptoms to a T, if you haven't found it, I'll let you know what mine was.
I am guessing big ends coz when I dropped it off this morning & the owner of the workshop had a listen, he had a wide grin (Just kidding) he had a worried look on his face & when I said "Big ends" it was a sickly grin from him.....

no, havnt found the source yet please let me know what your is.

I have booked mine in for the bearings to be changed but its not for another 2 weeks
Then i will also change my timing belt, tension belt, and all my oils $$$$

sniper wrote:no, havnt found the source yet please let me know what your is.

I have booked mine in for the bearings to be changed but its not for another 2 weeks
Then i will also change my timing belt, tension belt, and all my oils $$$$

big end bearings, timing belt, tensioner and engine oil should all cost in the $500 range. the bearings take about 3 - 4 hours and the parts cost is around $50. the timing belt costs $30 and the tensioner about $60. timing belt change takes half an hour including the tensioner. don't get raped.

most of the options for noises have been covered, also check your valve clearances and have them adjusted if necessary.

you should run a 10W40 or 15W40 oil, any thicker and there is the possibility of slow oil pressure build up at starting (bad) and film shearing and oil supply lag at higher rpms when the engine isn't quite up to temperature. imagine forcing toothpaste through a pinhole - you can have plenty of pressure in the tube, but not a lot of flow - that's what can happen with thick oils when the engine is cold.

I will personally do the oils my self, so will only be up for the timing, and big end bearings. Quote from JC Diesel (narrellan) is around the $650 ball park figure (usually ends up higher though). This is for big end bearings, timing belt.

I have read the owners manual and it recomends (off my head) a 20-50w oil, unless temps under 0c constantly.

Sniper, went to find out the diagnosis for my ute yesterday arve, he said not the big ends for mine, he suspects a dropped valve, he's just going to start at the Tappet cover & work down, I would be sus of it but he is a long time mate so I trust him.. will post when I know more....
good luck with yours mate.

Has anyone managed to work out what this noise is? my 75 series 1hz has had the same sort of tapping/knocking noise for the last 4 or so years, its kind of strange cause it comes in at about 1800 rpm's and disappears around 2500 rpm's, It hasn't seemed to affect power or performance but its very irratating, Ive changed the Big end bearings as well as done a full top end rebuild

cruiser075 wrote:Has anyone managed to work out what this noise is? my 75 series 1hz has had the same sort of tapping/knocking noise for the last 4 or so years, its kind of strange cause it comes in at about 1800 rpm's and disappears around 2500 rpm's, It hasn't seemed to affect power or performance but its very irratating, Ive changed the Big end bearings as well as done a full top end rebuild

Ive heard people fixing knocking diesels by putting a timing light on them....sometimes they can be so advanced that they slap the piston around when they fire.
Another suggestion is a pusher pump to supply fuel as opposed to the fuel pump having to suck through the filters
Andrew

hey guys
my 1hz has what i think is the same noise. a real clatter around middle of
the rev range
mine was a reco engine about 40000 ago . has always made the noise .
i reckon it is in the gear drive in the front of the eng
have tried valve clearances,diffrent oil etc
i have a mate with one as well his is a little quieter but has done a heap more k,s
i have just learnt to stop listening
also new stereo will help!!!
btw i am a diesel mechanic

Sounds like a bugga.
I think diesels are just noisy

BTW i got a cheap 1HZ for sale with only 170k on it
Brad

Sniper, got the news today... Big ends..... scored the crank too....
I'm up for some serious dollars.
but I'm looking at it from the point of view that I'll know exactly whats been done to the ute now (I have to, I can't sit down & cry about it)
how'd you go with yours?
Joom....

Sniper,

Just wondering how you got on with your car???

Cheers,

Tom.

Well i have been rather slack and it is actually going in tommorrow

Hopefully will find out then. praying for good news

Sniper, Just in the process of buying a 1HZ exchange for mine, $4500.00 3 months warranty, not including freight or fitment...
expensive little exercise.....
hope you have better luck with yours...

Forgot to mention, at the same place, just for the exercise, I priced a 1HDT, they had one there, it was just pulled out of an 80 with around 350,000k's for $6600.00 exchange
hate to buy a reco one....
once again, good luck...

silly suggestion try a genuine oil filter it has correct oil pressure relief valve settings for your motor. my wife car has a timing chain noise when I use aftermaket filters on it. Might be the same
regards
coffen

Joombi wrote:Forgot to mention, at the same place, just for the exercise, I priced a 1HDT, they had one there, it was just pulled out of an 80 with around 350,000k's for $6600.00 exchange
hate to buy a reco one....
once again, good luck...

you have just given me a heart attack