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problems with GU

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:16 pm
by j-top paj
took a GU for a test drive today and have a few queeries about them.

1. how does the transfer work?
(it was an auto) i noticed that it wouldnt shift into 4high or 4low as easy as im used to. (super select 2 on pajero moves as easy as the gearstick)
it also poped out once. maybe i didnt put it completely into 2high?? any suggestions?
can it be shifted while moving?? i drove it as if it was my pajero so maybe patrols have a different setup???

2. it pulled to the left slightly. not under brakes but just driving normally.
should this matter? im going to lift it at least 3 or 4 inches and put larger tyres on it anyway so il have to get an alignment anyway. should i worry about it pulling? is there something that can get damaged that could be costly in future?

3. it had 220k on the clock and didnt blow any smoke at all. and everything else seemed fine. it just arrived form the mechanics so they may have fixed any problems it may have had??

4.in comparison to driving my pajero it was like driving a commodore.
should they be so "floaty"?
it was so smooth i rekon id fall asleep on the highway driving it.

any thoughts???

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:26 pm
by *BESTY*
1. I can only shift mine in Park or Neutral......have'nt tried whilst on the move......no need to 'try' find out what could happen.

It shift's easily into gear when stopped and neutral.....not difficult to shift.

2. / 3. / 4. All the same answer..........you're gonna get a 3-4" lift and bigger tyres, that will change lots of road handling dynamics. The weight of the Auto Patrol (loaded) will be close on 3T.......compare that with the Paj......then compare handling dynamics.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:29 pm
by mickyd555
they all pull left.

to select 4L you need to push the little stick down and forward once in 4H, but it should go straight into 4H while stopped.

what engine is it running??

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:31 pm
by j-top paj
the 4.5 petrol.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:34 pm
by j-top paj
is it a "shift on the fly" system like the paj? i can shift mine from 2h to 4h anywhere up to 140k without any dramas.
it just seemed a little hard to shift. it was like it didnt "click" into place straight away.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:44 pm
by notso
You can shift from 2H into 4H at up to 40kph as long as the wheels are pointed straight ahead and you aren't spinning the wheels. As in Mud.

To shift to 4L you must stop. To shift from 4L to 4H you must stop. To shift from 4H to 2H you should be doing less than 40KPH.

It is also a good policy to stop and reverse a couple of metres when you shift from 4H to 2H or 4L to 2H. Sometimes the Auto Hubs don't unlock.

Depress the lever when shifting to 4L.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:54 pm
by j-top paj
yeh from 4h to 4L i gotta stop even in the paj.
but not the other way round.
i was palying with the auto hubs and i dont like them already.
im gona change them to manual hubs anyway..
didnt know about the 40k thing tho.. will keep it in mind in future..
did the reverse thing a few times also when the light didnt go away.
havnt had to do that since the 80s when we had a gen 1 paj.
something i gotta get used to i suppose...

with the transfer lever is it straight up and down or is it different?
my paj i gotta push it to the left slightly when going into low.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:26 pm
by gu4800
1) Note sure (I have manual), but don't you have to stop AND put it P or N to shift to 4L

2) As said above this is normal

3) 220K is getting up there for a petrol engine, but should be OK (most people don't flog 4WD's)

4) Probably got original or maybe tired shocks. Also, you are driving somewhat of a truck now. Never forget changing from my Challenger to the Patrol - major difference!

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:44 pm
by Dee
j-top paj wrote: didnt know about the 40k thing tho.. will keep it in mind in future..
did the reverse thing a few times also when the light didnt go away.
havnt had to do that since the 80s when we had a gen 1 paj.
something i gotta get used to i suppose....
The light in my gu will stay on, while accelerating after going from 4 back to 2. UNTIL i take my foot off, then it will go out. I generally dont reverse to unlock the hubs. There will be a point on the trip back where i will have to reverse anyway so...

Ive got a 3 inch lift... Pulls to the left. They all tend to do it a bit, but mine worsened slightly after lift/tyres (33's). Also my steering wheel sits a few degrees to the right when driving straight (because of original panhards pulling diff & steering links etc due to lift) An adjustable one should fix that, then it should be able to align up a bit better.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 9:04 pm
by j-top paj
gu4800 wrote:1)

4) Probably got original or maybe tired shocks. Also, you are driving somewhat of a truck now. Never forget changing from my Challenger to the Patrol - major difference!
is it really that bad? i know people say cruisers and patrols are like trucks but it cant be that bad. i got a bit of a shock when i jumped back into my pajero after driving the patrol and it was quite a difference.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 9:43 pm
by gu4800
j-top paj wrote:
gu4800 wrote:1)

4) Probably got original or maybe tired shocks. Also, you are driving somewhat of a truck now. Never forget changing from my Challenger to the Patrol - major difference!
is it really that bad? i know people say cruisers and patrols are like trucks but it cant be that bad. i got a bit of a shock when i jumped back into my pajero after driving the patrol and it was quite a difference.
You'll get used to it. The Patrol is actually the wifes car, and she wouldn't drive anything else now - loves it!

Not sure on the floating description though - but you are getting new springs and shocks so it won't drive the same once you do that anyway - especially if you are going 4". I've got 2" lift with Kings and Koni - drives great.

Posted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:01 pm
by GUHOON
With the pulling to left thing i had an offset kingpin put in the lh hub to correct the geometry a bit , made a difference but as said before the wheel is slightly offset due to no adjustment on the rods.
Has it still got standard suspension???
they are quite softly set up and do tend to float a bit but not much.
If you want float try an early 90's explorer or jeep :shock:

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:09 am
by j-top paj
yeh the car was completely stock.
going to have a look at a couple more on thursday.
hopefully buy one by the end of the week.

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:08 am
by turps
J-top
With the GU, 2h to 4h can be done at any speed if the hub are locked. If they are in auto you may need to slow to as has been already said approx 40km/r. But they can also be manually locked. then as long as the wheels are all travelling at the same speed, it should going to 2h or 4h or vise-versa at any speed.
As for 4L as per the paj, you will need to stop and put it into N or P and then select 4L.
As for the other things. cant answer for sure. As I have only had GQ's.

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 11:25 am
by not not
J-Top paj in reference to you shifting the paj from 2h/4h in any speed upto 140kph It is only designed and recomended "The shift on the fly" To be changed in any speed not exceeding 100kph But good thing your gettn new truck as the paj case are expensive as buggery to rebuild
And on the patrol if you want to look after it then i would come to a complete stop then shift the t-case lever
Cheers Jamie H

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:36 pm
by j-top paj
yeh i dont do it very often but have done it a couple times.

when i get the patrol i will be putting manual locking hubs anyway so il have to get out to lock the hubs so the car will come to a complete stop to engage 4wd.

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:40 pm
by j-top paj
also how can i tell what diff it has? is it marked on the diff itself??

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:46 pm
by bogged
not2.8 wrote:shifting the paj from 2h/4h <snip> near 140kph
I'd like to see that.

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 1:00 pm
by j-top paj
bogged wrote:
not2.8 wrote:shifting the paj from 2h/4h <snip> near 140kph
I'd like to see that.
using the clutch its fine...

it supose to be a shift on the fly where you dont need to use the clutch but i always use the clutch to be safe.
il usually do it while changing gears. ie from 3rd to 4th and 4h to 2h at the same time. like when coming out of a roundabout in the wet.

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 1:46 pm
by bogged
j-top paj wrote:using the clutch its fine...

it supose to be a shift on the fly where you dont need to use the clutch but i always use the clutch to be safe.
il usually do it while changing gears. ie from 3rd to 4th and 4h to 2h at the same time. like when coming out of a roundabout in the wet.
Most are shift on the fly - upto 40ks..

Why would you need to change to 4wd at 140kph is my point... the gears and shafts would love you.

You use 4wd on the road on roundabouts? :shock:
Buy some decent tires...

Posted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 5:35 pm
by Bingham
turps wrote:J-top
With the GU, 2h to 4h can be done at any speed if the hub are locked. If they are in auto you may need to slow to as has been already said approx 40km/r. But they can also be manually locked. then as long as the wheels are all travelling at the same speed, it should going to 2h or 4h or vise-versa at any speed.
As for 4L as per the paj, you will need to stop and put it into N or P and then select 4L.
As for the other things. cant answer for sure. As I have only had GQ's.
agreed..... mine took a few sessions playing around to get the hand of the 4wd and still takes a while to disengage sometimes...... but it did make a hell ofa clunk when a tried 2h-4h with hubs in auto at about 80......