Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have been reading a fair bit about how the 1hz and the 1hdft engines tend to have big end problems, or at least need replacing relatively regularly.
The question: I have just put a 14b motor in my midi and was wandering if they have the same problems. should I replace the big end bearings or are the 14b engines pretty good with bearing wear .
It is non turbo at the moment but a little while down the track I will be putting a turbo on it. If I need to do the bearings would I do it now or wait until I fit up the turbo.
Cheers for your advice.
Dave.

have not heard of bearing problems in 1hz's, the bearing problems you speak of were in the later 1hdt and earlier 1hdft in the 80 series. I believe the problem was addressed by toyota in the post 96 80 series? Im sure dumbdunce or dow50r will know more.

I havent heard of anyone having bearing problems with the 14b, but being a more comercial motor id say your pretty right. Best thing would be to ask someone who works on 14b's alot.

it certainly cannot do any damage to replace them
prevention is better than a cure

do you know the service history of the motor ? was it serviced at every 5000km it may never have been serviced so to have piece of mind its not a bad thing

the problems are MOSTLY with the earlier 1HD-T motors but there are instances of later 1HD-FT motors with big end bearing failures, and even 1HZ's. the turbo and non-turbo motors of a given age use the same crank and the same bearings, however it is thought that the staccato idle/low rpm action of the direct injected motors may be partly responsible, along with greater loading from the turbo, for the higher % of failures in the turbo motors. There is also a theory that using the "wrong" oil may contribute significantly to big end bearing failure, and it is recommended to use a Japanese spec oil (high calcium, eg Caltex Delo CXJ, Castrol J-max).

all that said, the B series motors are not known for throwing big end bearings but for under $100 in parts and an afternoon of fun, change them out anyway. just be very very very careful not to nick, scratch, hit, dent or otherwise damage the crank journals.

Thank you for your replys, they have been very helpfull. No Idont know the service history it was an import motor, so I guess might be safer to replace them . DD thank you for that advive I will be very carfull I dont want to cause the problem myself by being careless. Question. I am using the German heavy duty medium ash engine oil: Fuchs Titan universal HD 1540 sae 15w-40 API Cf-H1SJ What is your opinion on this oil for these engies?
Also totaly of the subject how do I tell the difference in ratio between two toyota diffs. I have a BJ73 with open diff and I have another centre with an air locker in it. I need to be able to find out if it is the same ratio so I can bolt it straight in or need to swap crown wheel etc.
Cheers.
Dave

midi73 wrote:Also totaly of the subject how do I tell the difference in ratio between two toyota diffs. I have a BJ73 with open diff and I have another centre with an air locker in it. I need to be able to find out if it is the same ratio so I can bolt it straight in or need to swap crown wheel etc.
Cheers.
Dave

You simply count the number of teeth on the crown wheel and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion gear and that's your diff ratio. Use something to mark the first one like a white out pen as this makes it easier .. they all look the same after a short while

Cheers Simo

Thank you Simo. You dont happen to know what the ratio of a bj73 centre is do you. Would be handy to know the ratio of that one before I pull it out. The locked one I can count, the way you explained.
Cheers.
Dave.

midi73 wrote:Thank you Simo. You dont happen to know what the ratio of a bj73 centre is do you. Would be handy to know the ratio of that one before I pull it out. The locked one I can count, the way you explained.
Cheers.
Dave.

Sorry I don't .. does it have a tag on the outer housing? That might tell you, otherwise check what the owners book or specifications might tell you (if it hasn't been changed).

I would expect it to be 4.1 like most Cruisers .. same sort of drive train.

No worries. Thanks Simo.

midi73 wrote:Thank you Simo. You dont happen to know what the ratio of a bj73 centre is do you. Would be handy to know the ratio of that one before I pull it out. The locked one I can count, the way you explained.
Cheers.
Dave.

read the diff code on the build plate on the firewall, then google something like "toyota axle code" and you should come across a table or list that will explain the code.

failing that, if it was an Australian market vehicle, 99% it will be a 4.1 ratio

cheers

DD

Cool thanks DD. Only the 14b is imported the Midi is OZ. Did petrols and diesels have different ratios.
Thanks again for your help.
Dave.

Try this site
http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20Inf ... ations.htm

midi73 wrote:Cool thanks DD. Only the 14b is imported the Midi is OZ. Did petrols and diesels have different ratios.
Thanks again for your help.
Dave.

nope almost all cruisers from the early 1970's to 1998 are all 4.10 or 4.11:1, check the axle code!

Thanks for that link Mongrel.

Ok no worries. Thank you very much DD.

Hey DD a couple Qns mate,
Do you know of any problems/failures that were common with the 12H-T?
She has just clicked over 345 000kms, is there any thing i should have checked/serviced (other than the ordinary)?
What is max RPM of a 12H-T?
My tacho goes orange at around 3500rpm and red at around 4000rpm (or there abouts), when it goes orange is that just a guide to tell you that ya starting to push it too hard or is it sort of like a "stop there" guide?
Are they governed?
I ask that question not cause i want to take it to the max but just for interest sake, highest ive ever had it is around 3200rpm i dont like to thrash it, I just want to know exactly how far i can push it *IF NEED BE*

Sorry to ask so much
Cheers in advance
Troy

dumbdunce wrote:the problems are MOSTLY with the earlier 1HD-T motors but there are instances of later 1HD-FT motors with big end bearing failures, and even 1HZ's. the turbo and non-turbo motors of a given age use the same crank and the same bearings, however it is thought that the staccato idle/low rpm action of the direct injected motors may be partly responsible, along with greater loading from the turbo, for the higher % of failures in the turbo motors. There is also a theory that using the "wrong" oil may contribute significantly to big end bearing failure, and it is recommended to use a Japanese spec oil (high calcium, eg Caltex Delo CXJ, Castrol J-max).

There is a growing knowledge base in Canada with the JDM import scene, as a result of our 15 year rule. While we are coming into this knowledge base late, there are a few things we are seeing. We've bought engines, crated them in Japan, and bought parts vehicles RORO to Vancouver. You are bang on with all your comments. We've seen HZ's with flaked bearings too, so it is good practice to replace. The vast majority of BEB replacement has been with ACL's (that is what we use, and also what many vehicle importers are using). While Toyota "may" have updated thier bearings, they are still alum/tin. I would personally would rather go with ACL.

Re Japanese spec oil (high calcium) saving BEB's. This is not the experience we are seeing in Japanese trucks and engines coming to Canada. While high calcium "may" be providing cushioning...it is not saving the BEB's. I don't have percentages of trucks showing flaking when bearings are replaced, but it is enough that all the importers I know and converse with are replacing BEB's as standard course now, before the trucks go to the customers. It is now also standard course for us with HZ and HD-T engines we sell.

All my comments are in reference to 1HZ/HD-T/HD-FT engines only...

Cheers from Canada

gb

http://www.gscruiserparts.com

vSAHARAx wrote:Hey DD a couple Qns mate,
Do you know of any problems/failures that were common with the 12H-T?

I am not aware of this beaing a problem with the 12H-T. It is my understanding that these older motor use a lead based bearing material and are not as susceptible as the alu/tin of the 1H* motors.

She has just clicked over 345 000kms, is there any thing i should have checked/serviced (other than the ordinary)?

there would be no harm in replacing the big ends but if it has been well looked after it should not need it. turbo might be getting a bit sad - check it for end float and side clearance. keep an eye on your oil pressure, it is possible for the relief valve to get stuck and send the pressure sky high. check the rocker faces at the valve ends for pitting/wear - if they are worn it will be costing your performace as the valve lash will be excessive so you don't get the right duration and lift. Timing gears might be getting a bit worn but they are expensive and if they'r enot excessively noisy, don't worry about it. coild be good to check the harmonic balancer for delamination, and the keyways in the front of the crankshaft, but only if you are able to (a) get the nut undone (b) do it up as tight as it was when it came off. just change the oil regularly and drive it!

What is max RPM of a 12H-T?
My tacho goes orange at around 3500rpm and red at around 4000rpm (or there abouts), when it goes orange is that just a guide to tell you that ya starting to push it too hard or is it sort of like a "stop there" guide?
Are they governed?

it will be governed somewhere between 3500 and 4000. you can take it to the governer but there's not much to be gained by doing it, the torque drops off dramatically above 3000rpm.

should always add a dob of locktight on the harmonic balancer nut aswell. toyota do whenever they touch this nut.