Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What would be the next best Mod on the following, to make it perform better offroad ?
It's a daily driver, so cost, legality and driverbility would have to be considered.
Also live in Qld, and traverse a lot of washed out tracks, but not a lot of rocks.

93 dual cab style side 2.8 diesel
Safari snorkle
K&N filter
Safari turbo
dual battery system [Rotronics]
Waeco CF50 fridge
Garmin GPS
Air lockers front and rear
conopy
draw system
water tanks with elec pump
spot lights
arb bull bar
warn 8000lb winch
rock sliders
ARB rear bar/ tow bar /step
fiberglass flares
tint windows
mp3 player
turbo timer
uhf
2" lift OME springs 10000 km old
OME shocks 10000km old
greasable shackles10000km old
32x 11.5x 15 BFG muds 10000km old
engine rebuilt 2000km ago

Sounds pretty full to me with most accossories already fitted for off road driving.
Is that what you wanted to hear

Maybe cross over not just for offroad but the steering handles better.

jeez dude theres not much left too do how much more you wanna spend


there is opton 1 sell it n start again

option 2 a set of comfy seats in it

option 3 get rid of the k&n filter n go back to the original air filt if its the foam type ,as most turbo manufactorys say '' have you ever tried breathing threw a sponge ?''

option 4 stop bragging that your truck is fully bling out and making everone jelous

Sorry has Toyota Surf seats in it allready which are a lot more comfy and have a large range of adjustment and lumbar adjut as well.

I was thinking of a 2" body lift, But any other mods others could think about would be good.
I think I have just about reached the limit as far as keeping it streetable is concerened, but I don't wish to crooss the line just yet.

X over steering was one I didn't think of, the old Toy steer is shit. I however don't think this would help offroad. [maybe wrong]

This is why I ask the Q where to next.

Bigger tyres (33's/35's) and the associated gearing to return to standard.

Transfer case gears. Excellent bang for your buck!!


My 2c worth.

Crawler gears

bigbluemav wrote:Bigger tyres (33's/35's) and the associated gearing to return to standard.

Transfer case gears. Excellent bang for your buck!!


My 2c worth.

Too many extra mods to do to fit 35's, 33's would fit with only a body lift which is ok and streetable. But current treads only have 10000k's on them.

Crawler gears would be good but don't do a lot of slow rock stuff.

Ps: I am poor after moding it out so far.

learn to drive with what you've got you're already decked out ...
if u get stuck or either on ur stuck on ur belly or on ur lid cause u have lockers

Hoonz wrote:learn to drive with what you've got you're already decked out ...
if u get stuck or either on ur stuck on ur belly or on ur lid cause u have lockers

just get home???

I'd say bigger/better tyres and/or crawlers. I'm not a rock crawler either, but the ability to tackle obstacles using low speed traction rather than momentum is a real bonus. And I don't reckon you can go too slow down hills - to anybody who reckons 2nd low is good for descents.

Scott

Transfer case crosmember.
The factory hilux one is a rock magnet and is piss weak.
Get one that is bent out of 10mm plate (I think "bubs" makes these) with a decent bash plate too.
You will get a good couple of inches extra clearance and beefier mount and bash plate as well.

Here is a pic of mine that I made without the bash plate atached. It also has 40mm drivetrain lift built in so is a bit flatter than a standard one would be.

Paul.

Winch?

Zookified wrote:Winch?

Read the list againt

Next best mod? COILS!

Do you have power steer already ?

id say either dual transfers or cross over high steer.
Both are wicked mods, the cross over makes its 100x nice to drive on and off raod, much less effort to turn the wheel etc.

how about another turbo, or supercharger, or even an engine swap

dody lift, 35's and change diff ratios (don't have to be done straight away, just lose power, 3rd low becomes 2nd, 2nd becomes 1st, etc. you just find yourself tackling more hills in 1st gear until such time as you can afford it)

I like cloughy's idea ---COILS ! i hate leaf springs and ifs

get rid of those fibreglass flares before an embankment or rut does it for you and put rubber flaring on with plenty of screws

plasma rope

sunroof

remove your swaybars

rock crawler gears

Better still buy a Nissan![/quote]

Swop to a Nissan Patrol.

33"s instead of 32"s. They'll be 100% legal after this NCOP stuff. You should be able to sell your 32's and not loose too much on them.

Transfer case crossmember. The hilux one hangs down a long way.

Transfer case gears or diff gears. If you dont do much crawling then why do you need twin lockers?

mickyd555 wrote:

Hoonz wrote:learn to drive with what you've got you're already decked out ...
if u get stuck or either on ur stuck on ur belly or on ur lid cause u have lockers

just get home???

say what?

Ok thanks for all the replys.
I think I may go down this road.
A 2" body lift
B 33's radail claws
C X over
D crawler gears.

Or should I consider other mods, or do things in a different order.

Ps: twin lockers get me further than open centres any day and I don't have to flog it to death to get there.

dont bother with a body lift, keep ur truck low to the ground, 33's should fit with 2" lift, might need to move the front diff foward a inch and massage the firewall a lil bit

Not a bad idea Move the diff forward when I convert to xover and kill two birds with the one stone and be able to fit 33's and get way better steering to boot.
Keeping that centre of gravity as low as sounds good, I have nearly put it on it's lid numerous times and once was because it steers like shit.

So,
A x over, new torque rod diff forward ect
B 33's
C clawler gears { or would twin cases be cheaper }

What do you all think.

all good cept you dont need the torque rod when you goto cross over steering

But you do when you move the diff forward which I will do the same time as the xover and only be up for 1 w/align.
Either/ or , can do at the same time or not.
any idea on cost, and do you use a IFS drag link or after market.

muddylux wrote:But you do when you move the diff forward which I will do the same time as the xover and only be up for 1 w/align.
Either/ or , can do at the same time or not.
any idea on cost, and do you use a IFS drag link or after market.

i meant you dont need the troque rod at all, take it out and leave it out when you to the crossover, i used a ifs power steering box off a late model hilux with the snake racing hi steer arms and i have 4140 steering rods with 80 series tie rod ends

Why don't you need it, I thought that it stopped the diff twisting forwadrd under braking, which is bad.
Am I missing something? And can you use IFS drag link? What are the avantages of 80 tie rod ends?

the torque rod is orignally required becuase of the steering linkages , when you brake with the std linkages the front end compressing will cause the truck to veer to the right. With the cross over the steering is not affected by braking.

As far a i know you cannot use the ifsdrag link, the 80 series tre's are alot bigger and stronger than the ifs hilux ones.

Just to check is your hilux a solid front or ifs ?

a 9000 winch would be alot better than the 8000 to especially when the rig is fully loaded
and yeah a big yes to crawler gears

Solid front. So removing the torque rod after the xover would give me more flex then offroad. If so xover would be next on the list.
undoing the spring clamps? would this also give more flex, and at what expence to drivabilty.?

Fark just went out and had a look under, your right, if I took it off now the diff would rotate forward and push in turn on the steer arm & drag link, and make it turn right or shudder under brakes.
Fit x over problem solved.
Wish all these public holidays would end so I can go get the gear I need.

Thanks for the input. X over, 33's and crawler gears, got it.