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Stripped exhaust manifold bolt

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:53 am
by fool_injected
Well its not actually stripped
Whats happened is on #4 cyl the rear stud srews into a 'bubble' casting in the head
The little bubble has split so now the stud just pulls out

What is the best (easiest) way to refix the stud
Brazing, silver solder, I've heard araldite will hold at temps, is there some magic loctite stuff?

Alloyhead
Prefer to fix in situ. Don't wanna pull the head off,

Cheers
Wayne

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:12 am
by mickyd555
it can be done, im just trying to think of the name of the "fixer-uperer". Go to Repco and tell them, they will have it for you.

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:23 am
by plowy
repco do have a product called q bond
its ultra fast super glue and also has 2 different powders in its kit for different purposes
they have a demo block in store were the powder n glue mix has been drilled n tapped

a small kit is about $30

a big kit is about $ 60-70

test it out before useing it for the first time on a job and DON'T get any on you as it drys in 10sec rock hard

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:57 am
by fool_injected
Thanks guys, think I will go for a run down to Repco :armsup:

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:55 am
by murcod
25% off today and Monday too! :D

http://www.repcoshop.com.au/

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 1:38 pm
by Hoonz
heli coil kit perhaps?

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 2:09 pm
by -Scott-
Hoonz wrote:heli coil kit perhaps?
Good thinking! After the chemi-bond stuff (whatever) drill and tap for a helicoil, to give the thread some strength.

Scott

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:31 pm
by fool_injected
Heli coil will not hold as the boss is split and will just keep opening up

Tried Q-Bond, mad stuff. Instructions say 10sec cure more like 3 seconds.
Did not work as the hole faces towards the ground so the powerd just falls out

So I got a two part Loctite kit specificaly for engine blocks and high temps
Holding well but I will leave it overnight to ensure it cures

If thes font work its back to the Q-Bond
Ramp the driners side up so the hold points up.
Drill out 10mm
Fill with Q-bond
Drill and tap 8mm (?) for the stud

Hope the epoxy works, just got not apply too much torque

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm sure the Q-bond will come in handy later

Edit:
Q-Bond $18.75 (Two glue, one black plastic powder and one grey aluminuim powder bottles)
Loctie Two part $19.50 (Part A, Part B and Release agent)
Both from Repco with 25% off today

Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 7:51 pm
by hudson44
There's an epoxy named "Devcon" that can be baught at repco. Its like a liquid steel. Have used it to repair engine blocks that have corroded near a cylinder and has worked a treat. Only difference is the drying time is about 24 hours. Q Bond is pretty awesome stuff tho if you can manage to keep the powder in the working area!!

Gabe

Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:23 pm
by fool_injected
UPDATE:
Q-Bond not easy to use due to location
Loctite pulled out after a monor knock (probally should not af used release agent and made it permanate)

Devcon, ah I remember that stuff
No spares parts shops ouround here stock it
Repco no longer stock it
So it will have to wait until I get to wholesalers on Tuesday

Starting to really irk me
:bad-words: :bad-words:

Cheers
Wayne

Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:43 pm
by hudson44
fool_injected wrote:UPDATE:
Q-Bond not easy to use due to location
Just roll the car on her side!

Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:30 pm
by EXHAUSTFIX
hey instead of trying all these different glue things
fix it properly
first remove broken stud thrn drill and tap it to take a recoil if you have a crack in the head drill a small hole into the crack longways or down the length of it and get liquid steel and glue a dowl pin in the crack and iff possiable when dry after 24 hours run a weld along the crack with the wright welder and material
ross