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AFM
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 5:33 pm
by 81 rangie
I figured out that is AFM is contributing to the smoke and full richness, and not being able to idle. If i disconnect the AFM it runs better. I believe it is a vitesse custom AFM on an 88 rangie. Is it bad to run your car with the AFM disconnected, and what could be the other causes for the AFM not working
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 7:21 pm
by RaginRover
you afm probably needs adjusting back to spec - you need to find out what resistance it needs to be running and adjust the trim pot (assuming it has one) accordingly
Tony aka RUFF has just been working through this I think he found the specs on the Land Rover Owners Forum (uk I am guessing) on the vitesse AFM does it have any numbers on it like 3AM, 5AM or something - I can't picture the unit you are taking about
Tom
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 8:07 pm
by RUFF
RaginRover wrote:you afm probably needs adjusting back to spec - you need to find out what resistance it needs to be running and adjust the trim pot (assuming it has one) accordingly
Tony aka RUFF has just been working through this I think he found the specs on the Land Rover Owners Forum (uk I am guessing) on the vitesse AFM does it have any numbers on it like 3AM, 5AM or something - I can't picture the unit you are taking about
Tom
Jeez word gets around fast doesnt it
Firstly mine is a hotwire AFM not a flapper one. Flapper one has a kind of door/flap in the air intake hence its called a flapper.
I just sorted mine out this afternoon. I found all the specs i needed on the AULRO forum
http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Forums I fitted a 97 disco motor complete with EFI to my 86 about a year ago and since then its been running with a dead Airflow Meter but only real;ised a few weeks ago this was the problem it was having. I replaced this a week or so ago and it ran better but today i found the specs to set it correctly. You need to get a digital Multi Meter(A non digital one can cause problems to the afm apparently) And probe the far left terminal and the far right terminal on the AFM with it disconected then adjust the trim pot to 174ohms. This will set it back to factory settings.
I have driven mine for around 12 months basicaly with the AFM disconected so the computer ran in limp home mode and it used heaps of fuel but caused no other real problems except iratic idle.
I tried everything before i search the aulro forum today and this sorted it out straight away. So far it starts,drives and idles better than it ever has.
After adjusting it you may need to disconect the battery for about 5 min so the computer re-sets itself. Not sure if this is needed but this is what i did on mine.
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:33 pm
by RaginRover
While we were testing things I found this info
Air temperature sensor
Possible fault:
Incorporated in the air flow sensor
Connect ohmmetre between Pins 6 and 27
Take only short readings as sensor may be damaged by heat from curent from ohmmetre
Reading unlimited: disconnect flow meter, connect Pins 6 and 27. If reading is now 0 the sensor is faulty. If reading still unlimited check wiring and connectors as well as ECU connector
Normal result:
-10°C: 8,26 to 10,56 kohms
+20°C: 2,28 to 2,72 kohms
+50°C: 0,76 to 0,91 kohms
Tom
Thanks to
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/ECU_check.htm
for the info.
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:48 pm
by RUFF
RaginRover wrote:While we were testing things I found this info
Air temperature sensor
Possible fault:
Incorporated in the air flow sensor
Connect ohmmetre between Pins 6 and 27
Take only short readings as sensor may be damaged by heat from curent from ohmmetre
Reading unlimited: disconnect flow meter, connect Pins 6 and 27. If reading is now 0 the sensor is faulty. If reading still unlimited check wiring and connectors as well as ECU connector
Normal result:
-10°C: 8,26 to 10,56 kohms
+20°C: 2,28 to 2,72 kohms
+50°C: 0,76 to 0,91 kohms
Tom
Thanks to
http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/ECU_check.htm
for the info.
Tom by all the pictures in that link that is for a Flapper system.
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:49 pm
by RUFF
Just read the first sentance and it says its for a flapper system.
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:52 pm
by RaginRover
Bugger
Have to keep looking
Tom
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 10:55 pm
by RUFF
See if you can find something about Base Idle adjustment while your at it. Ive given up

Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2006 11:10 pm
by RaginRover
Got some more stuff here from the piston heads forum.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topi ... h=&t=58168
Harry wrote:
All the way in clockwise then out 2.5 turns anti-clockwise puts it in the start position for setting up the base idle of around 500rpm, it could be a turn either way away form this IMHO.
As Peter has said, perhaps you should raise it (anti-cw) a little more to stop it stalling until you get a permanent solution.
Harry
Also there is from Andy M on
http://www.gaima.co.uk/www.pallant.f2s. ... owidle.htm
Andy M wrote:
Idle Speed Dropping (Maybe Stalling)?
I can start the car from cold, drive all day in stop start traffic or on a clear run and the car accelerates smoothly and holds a rock steady 950rpm idle. However, if I stop and have to turn the ignition off the problems start. On re starting the engine hot whenever the car comes to a standstill the idle speed drops to around 150 - 300rpm, the engine hunts and appears as though it will stall at any moment although it doesn't. 3 to 4 seconds later the idle speed slowly rises to 950rpm and will then idle happily for as long as I am stationary. If I move off then come to a standstill again the same thing happens all over again. If I come to a stop with any kind of steering lock on the additional load of the power steering pump causes the car to stall. Once the engine has cooled I can re start and the car performs perfectly.
I suspect I should be looking at the stepper motor / potentiometer but am unsure how to check for correct operation. I don't think it will be easy to check whilst the problem is occurring as it corrects itself within 3 to 4 seconds. Some help here would be useful.
Thanks
Steve.
Sounds like the base idle speed is too low and the ECU is using the stepper motor to hold the idele speed at 950 rpm. Most 1990 820Si use Lucas "Hotwire" Efi, the means of adjusting the idle speed varies according to the type of throttlebody fitted. Only one type is shown in the Haynes manual for the 800 although details of the other type are given in the Haynes maual for the Montego 2litre Efi.
Type (1) has an external stop screw acting directly on the throttle butterfly spindle -- this is the type shown in the Haynes manual.
Type (2) has an adjusting screw regulating the throttle by-pass passage. This located on the same side as the idle mixture adjustment screw but about 30mm towards the front of the throttlebody and about 10mm lower down.. Both this and the mixture adjustment screw might be sealed by an alloy plug.
Before attempting any adjustment check thr connections to the water temperature sensors and the fuel temperature sensors are in good order, also check the litte rubber vacum pipe to the ignition ECU is clear and in good order, likewise the airfilter should be fairly clean.
Assuming the rest of the engine is in good order now get the car fully warmed up -- the electric fan should be allowed cut in and cut out again. The next stage is to cycle the idle speed stepper motor to the base idle position.
(1) Switch on the ignition (2) count to 10 (3) Disconnect the stepper motor plug (the black "spark plug like" object on top of the throttlebody). (4) Switch off the ignition (4) Count to 10 (5) Reconnect the stepper motor
Repeat steps 1 to 5 THEN repeat steps 1 to 4 DO NOT RECONNECT AT THIS STAGE
This should leave the stepper motor in the base idle position (ie. fully extended and the by-pass valve will be fully closed) You may may now start the car and adjust the base idle speed. This should be 750 RPM +/- 25 RPM. However beware Rover dashboard tachos are often pretty inaccurate. Switch off then ignition and reconnect the Stepper motor, the idle speed with the ECU controlling the stepper motor should be 950 RPM but may tend to rise above this.
If this procedure dosen't work try (1) Cleaning out the throttlebody and the little pipe to the airfilter. (2) Clean and lubricate the stepper motor with wd40 (3) Check the temperature sensors and Thermostat.
For information on setting up Rover fuel injection and measuring the various sensors
http://www.davrian.freeserve.co.uk/roveridle.htm
Andy M
Will have to try that tomorrow
Tom
Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 1:44 am
by peter r
G`day 81
If your coolant temp sensor is open circuit or the wrong value it will run rich all the time .
All the best , Peter .
Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 9:37 am
by 81 rangie
I will have to get pictures of what i think is the AFM, cause it only has two wires going in and just looks like a little plug in a tube that has been cut and pasted just behind the filter
Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 3:02 pm
by justinC
81RANGIE
If it is a Vitesse engine then it is an air temp sensor ONLY, and not adjustable. They use MOTEC engine management, they remove the AFM, and the ECU should be under drivers seat. DO NOT TAMPER WITHIT.They have about 25 adjustable trim pots in them!!!
Ring Sam at Vitesse Developments and get them to set up the ECU for you. It may be that the vehicle has had some dyno tuning done or unauthorised fidling with the settings, because if it is the early motec system in it, then that is 99% certainly what has happened.
I had a customer with an 88 RR that had one of their stroked 3.9's, and after a dyno tune it ran like a dog at idle and partial load. I had a crack at it and it was only marginally better, I then phoned Sam who asked immediately if the dyno tuning had been done, and apparently the only time these things play up is when they get touched!!
I sent the ECU to them, and they re-mapped it. can't remember how much but it was a whole lot cheaper than 'dyno tuning ' it!
PM for more.
JC
Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:09 pm
by 81 rangie
Alright, so it is ony a temperater sender. We had to lengthen the wires to fit the gas, so I cut and pasted in some more wire, but im not sure thats the problem as it still ran fine after that chop. But I have found that if that is disconnected atleast it idles. Best would probably be to take it back to Vitesse. Just out of interest is their work any good, as i didn't get the engine done
Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 1:04 am
by justinC
I have seen only good things from their shop. They are a well respected company and have been around a long time. They started some of the early performance options for RR's etc a long time ago, and have been good at engineering reliability and performance out of the rover V8 for at least 20 years. A good friend of mine has one of their 4.6 conversions in his 95 model soft dash Vogue LSE, and is very happy with it.
Have no fear, drop it in and let them take a look.
JC
Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:21 pm
by 81 rangie
so i will get the engine cleaned up and then bring it to them
Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 2:51 pm
by Utemad
RUFF wrote:I just sorted mine out this afternoon. I found all the specs i needed on the AULRO forum
http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Forums I fitted a 97 disco motor complete with EFI to my 86 about a year ago and since then its been running with a dead Airflow Meter but only real;ised a few weeks ago this was the problem it was having. I replaced this a week or so ago and it ran better but today i found the specs to set it correctly. You need to get a digital Multi Meter(A non digital one can cause problems to the afm apparently) And probe the far left terminal and the far right terminal on the AFM with it disconected then adjust the trim pot to 174ohms. This will set it back to factory settings.
My Disco is running rich. It has been for many months but is getting worse. This may be due to driving it in heavy traffic now whereas I wasn't before.
Anyway I'm interested in checking my MAF.
I have measured the resistance as per above and it read 186 ohms initially but now is reading 135 ohms?
I measured between the two outer pins (five pins in total).
Anyway do I have to take it apart to clean and adjust it?
It appears to have a trim pot in a protected tube on the RHS of the top casing as you are looking at the socket.
Also the link above is dead due to AULRO being upgraded a while back. Couldn't find it in a search. Sounds like it was a good thread too.
Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:50 am
by Utemad
Ok I took the MAF apart and cleaned it. Adjusted it to 174ohms. I also discovered my coolant temp sensor is open circuit which is no doubt the main cause for running rich.
The car is running better at the moment but I haven't replaced the coolant temp sensor yet.
Just for a bit of tech. If the resistance is reduced (counter clockwise) the mixture is made richer, if the resistance is increased (clockwise) the mixture is made leaner.
I had it spitting fuel out the exhaust at one point
Also there are 5 tabs on the MAF but only 4 wires. One of the outer tabs is not used. However you can still test the two outer tabs as tab 4 and 5 (forget which end) must be joined inside the unit as they both allow you to test the same resistance.