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Landcruiser 60 series clutch problem

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 6:34 pm
Location: Bribie Island

Landcruiser 60 series clutch problem

Post by Georgie »

Anyone got any ideas?
We've got an HJ60 1989 model and we had a clutch slave/salve (?) replaced (top one) then a month later, noticed clutch oil leaking down clutch pedal inside. Then found out that should have replaced bottom one at same time to avoid this happening.
Had the bottom one replaced at that stage, and all clutch oil drained and replaced. The next day, noticed that when driving in 1st or 2nd gear in traffic, there was no clutch. And when it did engage, it was only about an inch from the floor. Took it back to mechanic and he couldn't find any problems, so replaced the top slave/salve again (he hadn't done the original work), and replaced oil, got rid of any airlocks, etc. etc. Fine for a day or two, but then found exactly same problem again. Clutch only engaging an inch from the floor.
I've had the same mechanic for near on 10 years and he's been good with everything else. Anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the problem, so that I can suggest these to him? :?:
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Post by G_loomis »

Is the fluid level dropping at all? if it that means there is an air leak somewhere.

sorry, buts that about all the help I can be.
L.S Canvas & P.V.C
www.lscanvas.com.au
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Post by vSAHARAx »

had the same problem with my brothers cruiser ute, ended up being some rubber boot thingy down near the pedal.
GXL HDJ80 Cruiser - Lifted, Locked, 315's, 3" Zorst, Safari Intercooled, High Flowed Turbo, All the fruit. AMMS tuned coal shovel, Pushing 148rwhp... + heaps of the black sooty goodness...
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Post by GeneralFubashi »

if its leaking fluid from the master cylinder down the clutch pedal, the master needs replacing, the slave cylinder is the one bolted to the bellhousing. When replacing, its a good idea to replace both at the same time. Not all have the same amount of movement, especially if you dont replace both at the same time, so the mechanical adjustments need to be made too. There are 2. one is on the rod that extends from the slave cylinder, the other on the rod that joins the pedal to the master. If you dont have a leak anywhere, start by making sure the master adjuster is tight, and wind out the slave adjuster until you have a few mm slack before the clutch begins to disengage. This should give you around about the correct pedal height. If not, have a play around.

The hydraulics are simple, single piston top pushing single piston bottom, if one is leaking - its buggered.

cheers
Sam
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