Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok not happy jan!
i've just vented the block on my TD42,iwas doing 60klm in 4th gear
and bang.
So the question is,

Do i source a second hand engine and hope that its all ok?.
I can get a second hand engine for $3000.
or
Do i rebuild it.
I can get a block for $150(it needs sleeveing).is this wise?
a rebuild kit,pistons,bearing,gasket for $800
I work for a truck dealership,have rebuilte engines myself
so labour not such a big issue.

Any suggestions would be great.

Cheer Ian.

fix it urself,the other engine could be a piece of shit aswell

meiamaro wrote: I can get a block for $150
so labour not such a big issue.

you have answered this yourself I reckon.

Or from Brunswick (to suit 4.5 petrol auto)
A general Breakdown ie Basic conversion as requested.

Fully rebuilt 6.5 V8 Diesel including fittment , exhaust, mounts, hoses,
pulleys, fuel system, glow system, tacho, ratio box & gear, rewire starter
etc $16,500.00
extreme valve body and super low stall torque convertor to suit TB45e auto $2,000.00 fitted.
Total being $18,500.00

H/Duty options: Custom built copper brass crossflow h/duty radiator
$1,250.00
custom shroud $250.00
Serpentine front inc high volume water pump, Chev fan, new 110amp Alt, vacc
pump, Sanden SD508 A/C Compressor re-pipe and regas $2,000.00

Possible extras $3,500.00

Or from Marks
http://www.marks4wd.com/Projects/6.5%20GQ%20project.htm

The Original Quotation for fitting the 6.5ltr Diesel to 1988 GQ Patrol 4.2 Petrol 5 Speed

Customer Name: Peter Impey

6.5 Fully Rebuilt Engine $9000.00

Adaptor kit $970.00

Mounts $190.00

Flywheel $355.00

Clutch kit $395.00

Oil cooler $450.00

Mount and Drive Kit $1330.00

Alternator (New) $860.00

3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust $1200.00

Extras (see below) $1000.00

Labour $3000.00

Air cleaner assembly and fittings (Donaldson) $550.00

Tachometer drive and tacho calibration

The Engineers Report on this installation cost $650.00 however this can vary due to other modifications such as body lift, suspension, seats etc.

The only part pending on the above price is the radiator. The extra cost for this will depend on the condition of the old unit.

The fully rebuilt engines have 12 months or 20,000-klm warranty. Quotes are valid for 30 days from the above date.

Extras include fuel pump, belts, hoses, engine oil, coolant, fuel filter, oil filter, fuel hoses and clamps, heater hoses and clamps, electrical wiring and connectors, steel, nuts, bolts, paint etc.

Wow bogged thats alot of $$$$$.

Looks like i'ii be getting me hands dirty.

Has anybody sleeved a block before?.
I know i'm up for a conrod and read before that a td27 conrod was the same just cheaper, can anyone confirm this?

Cheers Ian.

I thought it wouldve cost heaps more than $800 to rebuild it........is there anything else you need to spend besides the $800for the rebuild kit and $150 for block?

mickyd555 wrote:I thought it wouldve cost heaps more than $800 to rebuild it........is there anything else you need to spend besides the $800for the rebuild kit and $150 for block?

Yes! To re-sleeve block is about $600+
and then add more for unseen damage ie,crank ect
i have yet to pull her out and strip.
$800 was a month or so ago at trade price.
Will double check tomorrow.

I'm thinking,,,,while i'm at it i might get her balanced, ready for a
bit of a boost upgrade(8/10psi,cooler,more fuel).

Cheers Ian.

how long is a peice of string ... till u open it u won't know what your up for

dasiy (tom) did the full rebuild and resleave theres a tread on it if you do a search

mickyd555 wrote:I thought it wouldve cost heaps more than $800 to rebuild it..

It is, the When woopy rebuilt his engine properly he had no change from $8k. that was new sleeves, pistons, rings, cam etc.

it would be better to buy a motor from GIANTRACING he had a GU TD42 with turbo advertised for $8k if I remember.

MMMMM? just read whoopy & daisy trilogy,

Will do more homework and take it from there.

Have replaced water pump/fan clutch & re-built starter in past
2 months.
Fuel pump was done not long before i bought it.
Also need to take into account that in 6 weeks the stork
will deliver number 3,and mummy is on maternaty leave.(yay)

Ian

P.S Bruce, did you find out what your pedal /vacume? prob was.(curious).

meiamaro wrote:P.S Bruce, did you find out what your pedal /vacume? prob was.(curious).

still going :'(

[quote="bogged]it would be better to buy a motor from GIANTRACING he had a GU TD42 with turbo advertised for $8k if I remember.[/quote]


. Cant say anymore. Im trying to keep out of trouble at the moment but i couldnt help myself.

pongo wrote:[quote="bogged]it would be better to buy a motor from GIANTRACING he had a GU TD42 with turbo advertised for $8k if I remember.

. Cant say anymore. Im trying to keep out of trouble at the moment but i couldnt help myself.[/quote]

Ive missed something i think.(hidden message maybe?)

Got any idea why this happened?

How many klms? Servicing schedule? etc ...

Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.

Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.

meiamaro wrote:Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water

deja vu .. I have heard this exact same story on this board before.

meiamaro wrote:Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.

Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.

AdrainGQ put water in his td42. They did the flush thing. But it still cracked the head and bent a rod. drove around for abit before the head became a problem. It never ceased. Just starting using water and running hot.
My sisters Nissan Bluebird had or has a craked head. It leaks water into the cylinder while sitting still over night. But once you pull the spark plug out and get the water out it runs fine (almost).
So may not be real expensive.

I know i'm up for a conrod and read before that a td27 conrod was the same just cheaper, can anyone confirm this?

Yup, I've used a TD27 rod in place of a TD42 one when I bent a rod due to getting a lung full of water. Truck is still going strong (will be 2 yrs ago tomorrow) with aftermarket turbo and fuel pump.

Ian that is a shocker and out of the blue also you can at least look forward to an engine that's good for yonks when done, ban the water crossings! Whats the go with water into the tank, how does that happen?

Anyway with regard to your turbo, it may not have happened without one of those devilish devices....... to save future hassles like this and do something different, you will be taking it off anyway, what about donating it to the closest board member with say........a gold patrol

Good luck with it let me know if there is anything I can help with, buggered if I know what that could be though.

Whens the next trip to Laura? I'm probably in if invited again but wary (extra) of those water crossings now!!

cheers fnq

when i bent my con rod i just replaced it with a second hand one from the wreckers stil going good and only cost $30 with postage

meiamaro wrote:Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.

Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.

Bugger!

Sounds like a bit of bad luck.

all these stories about water in fuel tanks is making me nervous.........ive had it, but its been running fine since i drained the tank apart from clowing white smoke when its ultra cold..............

Whats the go with water into the tank, how does that happen?
Easy,
The w#ker/moron who fitted the LR fuel tank coil the breather
and left it on top of tank......number 1.

number......2 the fuel cap o'ring was not proud enough to seal
the spout properly and after a few deep,long water crossings
on saturday she got a gut full.
So sunday comes and the fuel has rised above the water in the tank,
we go for a drive a few more crossings and the fuel in the lines has been
used and replaced with good old H2o. She desides to stop,3/4 the way accross sth palmer river.yeppie
Have since rectified these issues and also found the snorkle is not
air tight.
So people check everything someone else does or it can cost you.

Ian.

mickyd555 wrote:all these stories about water in fuel tanks is making me nervous.........ive had it, but its been running fine since i drained the tank apart from clowing white smoke when its ultra cold..............

Get a compression check!

White smoke when cold is what i have had since water issue.

Cheers Ian.

meiamaro wrote:

mickyd555 wrote:all these stories about water in fuel tanks is making me nervous.........ive had it, but its been running fine since i drained the tank apart from clowing white smoke when its ultra cold..............

Get a compression check!

White smoke when cold is what i have had since water issue.

Cheers Ian.

i dont like you anymore.......

this doesnt sound good.................... pig pen

Sorry
Does this mean no more snuggles.

If you have any water left over you will get white smoke on start up,
i was told it sits on the end of your injector tips as a drip.
When you start it you get white puff untill raw fuel is pushed through.
If the engine is left to sit it can cause corrosion on the injector tip.
but if you use it daily it SHOULD be fine.
Can anyone confirm this.

Ian.
ps. i hope all is good.

meiamaro wrote:Sorry
Does this mean no more snuggles.

If you have any water left over you will get white smoke on start up,
i was told it sits on the end of your injector tips as a drip.
When you start it you get white puff untill raw fuel is pushed through.
If the engine is left to sit it can cause corrosion on the injector tip.
but if you use it daily it SHOULD be fine.
Can anyone confirm this.

Ian.
ps. i hope all is good.

maybe one last cuddle, but after that, thats it..........It doesnt get driven that much, but it has been over a year since it happend and its still going....Im about to dump a whole lot of money in it to get it to comp spec, so i think the bill might have just gotten bigger........

I would say something would have happened by now,lucky bugger.

Get the compression checked if all is ok,spend money elsewere.
Up to comp spec....Details,build ups and pictures are required!!!!

Did think of the same(comp spec) type of set up,but up here
there are no comps so not really worth the effort or money.

Ian.

fnqcairns wrote: Whens the next trip to Laura? I'm probably in if invited again but wary (extra) of those water crossings now!!

cheers fnq

We will prob go again later in the year,will let you know,you are invited
it will be dryer this time(better be $$$$$).
We are also looking at Irvenbank/Herberton area,Any ideas?

Cheers Ian.

TD 42 is easy to rebuild, but expensive if you use Nissan parts. I had a tool made up to remove cylinder liners. Old ones were very difficult to remove, but new ones just tapped in. The new liners were the most expensive bit-- 6@$190 each. Cylinder head recon was expensive as i had all the precomp chambers replaced and valves. There was no cracks in the cylinder head in any of the common spots. Replacing the cam bearings is very difficult --you really need to make a copy of the factory tool so the oil feed holes are aligned properly. Despite the factory bits being relatively expensive, everything fitted perfectly without any problems during the rebuild--piston to bore clearance ended up being spot on in all cylinders. I was able to source the 'NDC' fact spec main bearings else where for much cheaper than dealer price..

Nick
P.S Engine complete is veery heavy --make sure your crane/lifting tackle is up to the weight.

Hi Ian, we went for a Sunday drive out there 6 weeks ago, saw one outerlimits worthy hill climb, will PM with what little I know about the area.

Bugger about the not finished fuel tank, good lesson for all.

cheers fnq