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Engine life expectancy.

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 8:20 am
by ZOOK92
Just a quick question as to the life span of a 200 or 300TDi motor. I was reading an old 4wd monthly and they said "the V8's are good for 500,000 km's before a rebuilt, but the diesels get suss after 200,000." Surely a well maintained motor will last double this i would have thought, or is everyone driving a car with more than 200k sitting on a monetary time bomb?

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 1:28 pm
by igould
Zook,
Post this question on the AULRO forum and you'll get a lot more response.
Try here: http://www.aulro.com

I can't comment 'cos I drive a v8 (beautiful machine).
Ian

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 1:44 pm
by ZOOK92
Thanks for that.

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 7:34 pm
by one_iota
Zook92,

As Ian suggests a post on AULRO will dig up a few more Tdi owners.

Mine is 160,000 kms young ;)

A lot will depend on regular servicing.

Because diesels particularly low capacity high output 4 cylinder turbo diesels work at high compression there are probably greater stresses involved. :?: I haven't heard of anyone wearing out a 300Tdi yet...but they have only been around for about 12 years so finding one that has done 500,000 kms might be hard. ;)

I posted up a poll on the AULRO site.

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=F ... ic&t=11531

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 8:17 pm
by uninformed
they are ment to be a 400,000 mile engine before rebuild. thats about 640,00kms

cheers, serg

Posted: Thu May 04, 2006 9:05 pm
by justinC
ZOOK,

I have a customer with 400,044 km on the clock , 300 Tdi disco , 1995 model. I have just replaced his head gasket today as a matter of course, as most start to deteriate at around 240,000km. When I pulled the head, the bores are as new, the head gasket WAS starting to blow through the fire rings on 2 cylinders, and the tops of the pistons were almost carbon free. This guy has owned this car from new, and driven it reasonably hard but looked after it aswell. I would say this motor will see 600,000 + km.


JC

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 8:27 am
by ZOOK92
I have also heard that the 200TDi was a noisier, but stronger motor with less issue than the 300. Is this correct in any way? What is the cost on an injector pump rebuild? I believe than a Toyota's is about $2000, so is it about that? All the info is great, still has not turned me off buying my dream car!

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 8:28 am
by lexi
Justin
Your appraisal is about right. Head gaskets let go cos it puts out a lotta power for it`s capacity. There are thousands of tdi in uk with 2 to 300 thousand Miles and hundreds more with well over that. Super little engine apart from a few minor oil leaks.
Alex

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 10:26 pm
by Bush65
ZOOK92 wrote:I have also heard that the 200TDi was a noisier, but stronger motor with less issue than the 300. Is this correct in any way? What is the cost on an injector pump rebuild? I believe than a Toyota's is about $2000, so is it about that? All the info is great, still has not turned me off buying my dream car!
300Tdi is a development of the 200Tdi. Has a little more power, runs a bit smoother and quieter.

The 200Tdi never had the timing belt issue that the 300Tdi had (fixed with the new pulley etc).

They use bosch injection pumps and injectors. I had a pump serviced about 18 month ago. Cost nothing like $2000, but I would guess it depends on what parts need replacing.

If you have searched, you may find other issues/opinions with 300Tdi from overseas, that stem from the EGR and the computer control (later models). Disregard these as EGR and computer controlled injection pump were never fitted to 300Tdi's in Aus.

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 10:36 pm
by ISUZUROVER
I agree with everything john said above. Also, as lexi said, some 300's suffered from failed head gaskets, or even head problems, but these were almost always caused by overheating. The engies should last a long time if serviced and looked after.

A mate had to get a major rebuild on his 300TDi pump, IIRC it cost about $1200-1500. Injectors are quite cheap also.

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 11:17 pm
by amshaw
justinC,
My 300 TDi is at 248,000km, still going strong :crazyeyes: But Im wondering what i need to look for when a head gasket is on its way out ? :? :roll:

Im starting to use a little coolent, but not really worried ,,,but like to know what to look for :)

Ive even been thinking about buying a spare 300......Just in case :shock:

regards
Andrew S

Posted: Fri May 05, 2006 11:19 pm
by andrew e
a little tip with the 300 tdi, run antifreeze. the dick that owned my defender before me didn't and i did a welsh plug, which warped the block. :x

Thinking about it, my old 300tdi has seen more action than most and has only got 120k on it. - 3 bent rods, 4 or 5 head gaskets, decked head, decked block, timing belt failure, supercharged, and the turbo fins aren't square on the edges anymore.......... all through neglect. he he.

coolant losses...

Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 1:27 pm
by justinC
amshaw wrote:justinC,
My 300 TDi is at 248,000km, still going strong :crazyeyes: But Im wondering what i need to look for when a head gasket is on its way out ? :? :roll:

Im starting to use a little coolent, but not really worried ,,,but like to know what to look for :)

Ive even been thinking about buying a spare 300......Just in case :shock:

regards
Andrew S
Hi Andrew,

If you look behind the water pump housing, where it bolts to the block, just forward of where the dipstick tube is clamped, there is a gasket which fails regularly and causes coolant to seep down the block and drip off the passenger side front corner of the sump. If this area is dry and unstained, and there is no other external leak problems, then it is a good candidate for a possible head gasket problem. Unfortunately, these engines can have a water consumption problem caused by a head gasket failure that is almost impossible to diagnose conclusively.
1)In order to get the TK head check detector dye test to work, ( Unless the gasket is really bad) you have to actually put the engine under load.
2)The engine may not produce ANY steam or anything unusual from the exhaust, even first startup.
3)Sometimes, they may not even overpressurise the cooling system excessively.

BUT, Some methods I've found succesful include;
Disconnecting the fuel pump solenoid while cranking the engine, not allowing it to start obviously, and filling the expansion bottle to the top. If the level rises while cranking, it shows the addition of pressure to the system like a pumping effect.
Does the heater slowly cool down going up hills or driving hard? Especially with disco's, the heater may stop working altogether as the air from the head leak displaces the water in the heater core. Sometimes you may even hear bubbling in the mornings on cold startup through the heater core.
If after only driving a short time, does the top radiator hose become pressurised while remaining stone cold?

All these will generally show a head gasket failure, don't forget, a diesel may only require a minute leak to cause symptoms like this.

Of course removing the head will prove the theory, and is actually very easy and relatively quick when comparing it to a V8 petrol!!
DO NOT use any other head gasket other than ELRING or genuine LR. (Elring are OEM)
Replace the head bolts if engine has overheated,
Don't get too concerned about little cracks from the ends of the glow plug holes and injector holes on the head face, these will not be a problem.

PM if you would like more assistance.

JC

coolant losses...

Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 1:29 pm
by justinC
amshaw wrote:justinC,
My 300 TDi is at 248,000km, still going strong :crazyeyes: But Im wondering what i need to look for when a head gasket is on its way out ? :? :roll:

Im starting to use a little coolent, but not really worried ,,,but like to know what to look for :)

Ive even been thinking about buying a spare 300......Just in case :shock:

regards
Andrew S
Hi Andrew,

If you look behind the water pump housing, where it bolts to the block, just forward of where the dipstick tube is clamped, there is a gasket which fails regularly and causes coolant to seep down the block and drip off the passenger side front corner of the sump. If this area is dry and unstained, and there is no other external leak problems, then it is a good candidate for a possible head gasket problem. Unfortunately, these engines can have a water consumption problem caused by a head gasket failure that is almost impossible to diagnose conclusively.
1)In order to get the TK head check detector dye test to work, ( Unless the gasket is really bad) you have to actually put the engine under load.
2)The engine may not produce ANY steam or anything unusual from the exhaust, even first startup.
3)Sometimes, they may not even overpressurise the cooling system excessively.

BUT, Some methods I've found succesful include;
Disconnecting the fuel pump solenoid while cranking the engine, not allowing it to start obviously, and filling the expansion bottle to the top. If the level rises while cranking, it shows the addition of pressure to the system like a pumping effect.
Does the heater slowly cool down going up hills or driving hard? Especially with disco's, the heater may stop working altogether as the air from the head leak displaces the water in the heater core. Sometimes you may even hear bubbling in the mornings on cold startup through the heater core.
If after only driving a short time, does the top radiator hose become pressurised while remaining stone cold?

All these will generally show a head gasket failure, don't forget, a diesel may only require a minute leak to cause symptoms like this.

Of course removing the head will prove the theory, and is actually very easy and relatively quick when comparing it to a V8 petrol!!
DO NOT use any other head gasket other than ELRING or genuine LR. (Elring are OEM)
Replace the head bolts if engine has overheated,
Don't get too concerned about little cracks from the ends of the glow plug holes and injector holes on the head face, these will not be a problem.

PM if you would like more assistance.

JC