Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What did you do for a front drive shaft?

The Tojo diff flange (with uni) was grafted onto my Mitsi propshaft, from memory it had to be lengthened 20-30mm and then was balanced.
The problem with this is that the Mitsi uni at the slip yoke end is only 25mm (cup size) but the Tojo uni at the diff end is 29mm.
I know you can get different size ears for the slip yoke to run a bigger uni from Hardy Spicer so it maybe possible to graft 29mm ears onto the slip yoke and propshaft to standardize the uni sizes.
It doesn't take much to flog out a 25mm uni..................
The Mitsi rear propshafts run a 30mm uni.
The Tojo's run 29mm uni's front and rear for both IFS and live axle versions.

I had my output shaft bored and tapped whilst I was fitting the low range gears so I can have any flange fitted to take any UJ, ie machine up a flange and weld it to the slip yoke spline.
J Top

i have a spare rear shaft, could i use the slip yoke uni off that?

Unfortunately the Mitsi front and rear slip yokes are different and not interchangeable.
I think J Top's idea is the best.
If you use a Toyo diff then a IFS 4 Runner or Hilux front propshaft can be used (a live axle Lux uses a double cardan joint and is not necesary).
The Mitsi slip yoke can be welded to a Tojo flange and a 8-10mm hole drilled and tapped into the output shaft (there already is a pilot hole there) to locate it.
In the event of a uni or shaft failure the whole shaft can just be unbolted at the flanges and removed but the slip yoke with flange remains bolted to the t/case output shaft (so no leaks).

Bitsamissin wrote:Unfortunately the Mitsi front and rear slip yokes are different and not interchangeable.
I think J Top's idea is the best.
If you use a Toyo diff then a IFS 4 Runner or Hilux front propshaft can be used (a live axle Lux uses a double cardan joint and is not necesary).
The Mitsi slip yoke can be welded to a Tojo flange and a 8-10mm hole drilled and tapped into the output shaft (there already is a pilot hole there) to locate it.
In the event of a uni or shaft failure the whole shaft can just be unbolted at the flanges and removed but the slip yoke with flange remains bolted to the t/case output shaft (so no leaks).

thanks that answers my question.

just to let every one know (and to brag a bit), i picked up a hilux diff today. will be very shortly starting to do a solid axle swap on my paj

I forgot to mention that if you use a low pinion Hilux centre you may need to run the Lux front propshaft with the double cardan joint due to the extra angle.
J Top and I used the high pinion Bundera front centre (which bolt into the Lux housing) so it sits about 3" higher and reduces the propshaft angle considerably.

Also if you are doing [3] link susp the high pinion makes your steering alot simpler and easier
J Top

J Top wrote:Also if you are doing [3] link susp the high pinion makes your steering alot simpler and easier
J Top

yes i'm planning on a 3 link, why would the high pinion make such a difference?

because your tierod can go behind the diff freeing up space in the front for
a better panhard angle.
Also the cruiser pwr stg box helps as well
J Top

would'nt running the tie rod behind the diff leave it open to getting caught up. i would rather run it in front.