Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Here is a link to pics and details of how I made my rock sliders.

http://www.cc4wdclub.org.au/index.php?n ... =1109#1109[/url]

aint rock sliders ment to be just a tad lower then the chassi
cos realy it aint gonna slide on anything its its the same height as the chassi
id be worried that it might bend up and damage the sills

4x4Monkey wrote:aint rock sliders ment to be just a tad lower then the chassi
cos realy it aint gonna slide on anything its its the same height as the chassi
id be worried that it might bend up and damage the sills

Maybe if I jump it off a cliff. But they will do me as the ally ones bent and looked ugly.
If you look closley the 40x40 runs off the bottom of the bracket just 10mm from the bottom of the chassis, this is attached to the middle of the 60 mm dia pipe, so the pipe hangs aprox 20mm lower than the bottom of the 40x40 outrigger which makes it hang a total of 10 mm lowwer than the chassis.

I have relived the bottom lip of the sill and the sliders would have to travle 25mm before they touch the bottom of the sill.
If I drive it hard enough to bend me sill I will claim it on insurance.
If i drove it hard enough with the ally steps I would have trouble opening the door.
These only cost me $80 to build and have tested them out in Cruiser canyon at LCMP and they do the job I need them to do and they leave the old ally ones in their wake.
Hope this clears things up.

The prime purpose of sliders is to primarily protect your sills/bottom of doors from damage. The greater distance the sliders are away from the bottom of the chassis, whilst still protecting your sills the better. If not, you will get frustrated [to say the least] becoming caught up far to often by the reduced ground clearance.

Cheers

Alby

I have greater ground clearance than the old ally steps , approx 10mm, every bit counts.

Good job mate. I would probaly put some triangle gusets between your U brackets and RHS for a bit more strength! Also when you weld galvo steel your better off grinding the galvo off around where your welding for better penetraing welds and also galvo fumes are farly toxic. Just recoat welds with galmet paint before finish coat.

looks good man

I like your idea of the bracket around the chassis rail. Let me know how strong it is when you give it a proper test. Can you highlift jack off it ok?

When i made mine i used 10mm plate with 4x 10mm tapped holes, welded to chassis. Base plates on legs of sliders with corresponding 12mm holes. Then sliders are bolted to plates on chassis with spring-washer on bolts.

Here's a look from side:

These sliders have now been tested big time NO ill affects have arissen and they should out last the truck. NO week welds, no more bracing needed, these work now as is.

Nice work. Simple design, easily removable and should serve the purpose well.

4x4monkey if sliders were lower than your chassis, you've just reduced your clearance! The point is to increase clearance without damaging sills. Don't worry, they'll get used even if they're a bit higher than the chassis. Typically, if something is high enough to reach the slider, then either you've driven a tyre over it, or you're leaning over. Either way, it's easy for the higher slider to be the first point of contact. The chassis rail itself, if it does hit the ground, will slide alright by itself. It's your door sills that ain't great at sliding!

Muddylux, I'd definitely put a triangular brace from the RHS back up to the mount. Looks likes there's plenty of room for it, and without it there's going to be a huge torque on the bottom weld on the mount when you land on something.

Heathx4 wrote:Nice work. Simple design, easily removable and should serve the purpose well.

4x4monkey if sliders were lower than your chassis, you've just reduced your clearance! The point is to increase clearance without damaging sills. Don't worry, they'll get used even if they're a bit higher than the chassis. Typically, if something is high enough to reach the slider, then either you've driven a tyre over it, or you're leaning over. Either way, it's easy for the higher slider to be the first point of contact. The chassis rail itself, if it does hit the ground, will slide alright by itself. It's your door sills that ain't great at sliding!

Muddylux, I'd definitely put a triangular brace from the RHS back up to the mount. Looks likes there's plenty of room for it, and without it there's going to be a huge torque on the bottom weld on the mount when you land on something.

These guys are right, you could be at risk of punching the RHS through the plate and bending/denting your chassis rails which equals throw away car.

Seriously, 1hr of work will save allot of hasle and make them even stronger.

Love the design tho, i might just copy it

mine are similar in design - I will get pics up shortly....