Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'Day All,

I wasn't going to post until I got all of the adapter plate information done but this is too cool for me. Besides the adapter plate info is as detailed as I can get it with multiple drawings and piccies...It will take me some time to compile all of the information to present it to the group.

Background:
When I had the Toyota axles installed the shop just used a hole in the side of the shock tower. It was at least a 3/4" hole with a 1/2" shock bolt. Well, this tended to rattle no matter how tight I got the bolt so I welded the shock bolt nut to the shock tower. This was a stainless steel nut and the weld didn't adhere very well. It still made noise. I have been driving like this for years now and got REALLY tired of it. I don't like strange noises from the truck and get paranoid that something is falling apart.

I just found out that a friend of mine at work has a brother with a welding shop and they were OK with me using their tools. They have plasma cutters, multiple MIGs and all the rest of the stuff you need for metal fabrication. I have taken two days off to get some work done on the truck. The first thing is the rear shock mounts which worked out pretty good. I wanted longer shocks so that when I get the Revolvers working right I would have enough travel. I have yet to buy the longer shocks but they mount real solid and no more noise. I am not sure about the angled mounting but I will be test driving it. It drove OK going home.

The new mounts

Tomorrow is snorkle day at the shop

Looking real good Kent

I'm at the point with my rig where I don't want to spend more money on it unless I can get lower gearing in the gearbox/xfer case..

The adapter info your putting together, what does the adapter basically do? Is it to put a different engine in or adapt a different gearbox etc to the stock 1.6L engine? Ideal that's what I want, I know a company that will do it up here in QLD but looking at $$$ as they have to develop it

Also thinking a toy gearbox in a Daihatsu is just screaming for a turbo to be added to the engine. Since mine was rebuilt, it's running like a dream, no pinging with any fuel and is happy to get to 75-80kph in 3rd gear and 4500-5000rpm

Murray,

I want to adapt a Toyota five speed tranny and all gear driven transfer case to the Feroza/ US Rocky 1600 eigine. The Toyota transmission that I have has the removable bell housing so I could put a V-6 in later if I wanted to. I am about to make a commitment to the Marlin 4.7:1 transfer case and have the tranny checked out with new seals. The reason is that my front drive shaft is at such an angle that the seal at the transfer case...isn't sealing very well. I do have a Toyota double U joint (CV joint?) front drive shaft that I would like to use also. This is the final "big stuff" that I want to do. I'll get the info together this week sometime and post it.

That's exactly what I would do next if possible...

5speed toy gearbox + xfercase with 4.7 gears. I'd probably use toyota driveshafts adapted to my daihatsu diffs. And customising crossmembers as needed...

Would crawl damm nice then!!

Looking forward to getting the info mate....have you been given ballpark figures for the adapter yet?

Bit bored this afternoon, here is some maths for everyone

Crawl Ratios (1st gear * low range * diff ratio)

Stock Daihatsu Crawl Ratio (Manual not auto).
3.752 * 1.754 * 5.285 = 34.780

With Toyota G52 5speed gearbox and stock Xfer case
3.93 * 2.28 * 5.285 = 47.356

With above + Rockhoppers
3.93 * 4.7 * 5.285 = 97.619

Toyota 5Speed and stock dual cases
3.93 * 2.28 * 2.28 * 5.285 = 107.971

Above + Rockhoppers in 1 case
3.93 * 2.28 * 4.7 * 5.285 = 222.572

Insane and go dualcase with marlins in both (unsure if rockhoppers can do this)
3.93 * 4.7 * 4.7 * 5.285 = 458.810

Quick search of tradingpost showed Gearbox + Xfer going for around $600-700AUD. Rockhoppers are retailing at around $999. Even with stock toyota gears, your slower and should be decent, rockhoppers puts you in the sweet spot in my books. I don't think there would be the length available to go dual cases...but it's nice to play with numbers

Murray....you're absolutely right......there is NOT enough room for dual cases !

The rear tailshaft would be waaaay to short and have a ridiculous angle on it !!....Mine is bad enough as it is....worsened by a leaf-over set-up, i believe the tailshaft would end up shorter than a stock TJ's shaft !!

Thought as much

Still..97:1 crawl ration is pretty damm sweet in my books, basically 3 times slower than stock for same revs! If this adapter looks good, think I'll go this way before anything else...then I'll see just how far I can push IFS

G-day Kent , I saw some pics of a toyo Forerunner ( I think , owned by Rhys Williams ??? ) with the same suspension set up as what you have done which got me thinking , now that ive seen it done on a feroza/rocky has got me thinking again , would like to hear more about how it turns out

Looks good Kent !
When mine were first done, I had another crossmember made up to mount the upper points of the shocks on !!

Wasn't a real good idea, 'cause after a couple of offroad trips the mount broke......long drive from Barmah Forest back to Melbourne without rear shocks....fully laden with a weeks camping gear !

Now, they are mounted using the OE mounting points and the shocks have less of an angle /\ on them.

I'm now using Toyota 60 series front shocks at the rear....enough length and soft enough !!

Besty,

I don't know about the angle thing. It seems to ride OK. I had read that with angled shocks that for every inch that the axle travels down the shock only moves 1/2"...sounded cool to me. I am just happy that they don't click and rattle any more. I will look into the Toyota 60 series front shocks at the rear. Will probably just put on RS5012's like I have on the front. They actually have 14" of travel...endless discussions on shocks

I did get the snorkle tubes put together and got the welds ground down per the picture. I didn't know that the hole in the fender was supposed to be tear drop shaped and not round. I spent hours with a file on the hole to get the snorkle close enough to the body.

Andy,

Did you mean how the new mounts work out? I think that they will be bombproof. They are made from 1" X 2" heavy wall rectangular tubing and 3/16" plate steel. I had the owner of the shop welded them to the truck as he wasn't afraid to weld next to the gas tank like I was I don't notice any difference while driving on curvey roads. They seem the same as the old verticle mounted.

G-day Kent , Yep !!! tell us everything . How it handles on / off road . What I really want to know is do you get more flex out of this set up , do you have Johnny joints fitted ???. I'm using Cruiser front shocks on the rear and have to be careful not to compress the shocks to much but with this set up I've got HEAPS of travel

Age's ago I mailed Mike H regarding this set up and issues regarding my revolvers and he suggested a few accessories that may help with articulation one was Johnny joints and the other was Pin to Eye shock conversion mounts . After actually watching my revolvers work I thought that I wouldn't need the Johnny joints because they swivelled when the leaf springs twist ( in flexing mode ) . If I was to do the same mod I would have to make some Pin to Eye shock conversion mounts to allow for the angle of the shocky , Look farward to more info

What exactly are "Johnny joints"? Got any pics?

murcod wrote:What exactly are "Johnny joints"? Got any pics?

Look up

Andy .. What setup do you have at the moment with your rear suspension? It seems like your getting heaps of droop, does it affect on road handling?

I forget in my last post to say thanks for the pics of your snorkel Kent. I printed them and will give them to the local exhaust shop guys as a guide for mine.

Ferozius wrote:

murcod wrote:What exactly are "Johnny joints"? Got any pics?

Look up

So that's them in the pic? Where do they fit exactly, what do they do?

Dubb,

Here is a few more pics for you...ignore all of the stuff in the background on the inside shots...more insanity of the high voltage kind. I have to make a bigger gasket and the mount for the window gutter. With the tear drop shaped hole the 90 degree bend is about 1/2 inch from the body...could probabl squeeze the space down to 1/4"...it is a pretty tight fit. When mounted the top of the Safari is level. If you have a muffler shop do the work see if they can do mandrel bends. The first attempt was done at a muffler shop and they use a crush/ compression bender. It wrinkled up the 3" tubing as well as the crush joints...I threw it in the dumpster at work as it looked HORRIBLE. Taking Mike H.'s advice I ordered mandrel bends and got a piece of straight pipe locally then welded it all together. The 90 is stainless steel as that was the only tight radius bend I could find. The rest is aluminized steel.

the other 2

G'Day Kent,

The new Snorkel is looking great - much improved

BTW - what is all the crap in the background, are you some kind of mad scientist or something haha...just jokes mate

Not sure if I've sent you these - but here is how we did the gutter mount for my Snorkel - maybe it might work for yours. The U-Channel had two holes drilled & 2 nuts welded on the inside - then after the plastic trim was removed on the inside & a large hole drilled thru the 1st skin, the bolt holes were drilled. This allowed the Mounting bracket to be bolted from the inside & everything clean & hidden. Worked a treat !!

Hope you're gonna polish that Snorkel as good as your spare Tranny / Tx Case

Later - Mike H.

murcod wrote:

Ferozius wrote:

murcod wrote:What exactly are "Johnny joints"? Got any pics?

Look up

So that's them in the pic? Where do they fit exactly, what do they do?

G'Day Andy & Murcod,

Wouldn't have been me suggesting the Johnny Joints for leaf springs - AFAIK they are for Control Arms on Coil Springs only. I have seen a similar type of Ball Joint for Hilux Leaf Springs - but they require an entirely new Leaf Spring with larger diameter eyes & new Mounts for the frame.
Wouldn't reccomend this idea for Daily Driven Feroza -
Best idea for Max travel for "normal" Feroza's as per my previous Suspension Quotes - open out all clamps, remove overload leaf, Revolver or similar shackles, Looooong Shocks ( this is where the Pin-Eye convertors come in ) & Looooong Brakeline. Should travel plenty. With this setup giving me around 3.5" of rear lift & 2.25" of lift in front I ramped 806 on a 20 Degree ramp - not bad for IFS & Leaf Springs

Later - Mike H.

G-day Mike ,
I can't remember who told me about the johny jionts , sorry

Kent ,
When I got my snorkel fitted I got the guys from the local panel shop to use ( sh#t , can't remember what they are called ) a nut and bolt system which works in a simular way as a rivet . They drilled holes in my guard and piller , put the nuts in and used a rivet gun thing to squash the out side of the nut , just a thought

Just wondering if a different transfer case can be bolted up 2 the hilux gearbox

Reason I ask that is because the hilux transfer case hangs down 2 far for my liking.

I heard that hilux gearboxes r weak so if i was going 2 change gearboxes I'd probibly go for a toyota Dyna box

rocknferoza wrote:Just wondering if a different transfer case can be bolted up 2 the hilux gearbox

Reason I ask that is because the hilux transfer case hangs down 2 far for my liking.

I heard that hilux gearboxes r weak so if i was going 2 change gearboxes I'd probibly go for a toyota Dyna box

It's not the t-case that hangs down too far....but the cross member. There are options of getting low profile cross members that will fit.
My cross member is standard hilux....I could buy a low profile one and 'bolt' it straight in, no more modifications !!

Yes....the G52 box isn't as strong as some others.....yes I have already destroyed one box. I think (reading in the Toyota section) that the W151 ?? from a Supra or Celica or something is a lot stronger..but rarer and harder to find !

Probably the Supra gearbox- they're legendary for their strength and are often used behind V8's.

then after the plastic trim was removed on the inside & a large hole drilled thru the 1st skin, the bolt holes were drilled.

G' Day Mike (Dad),

I wanted to write days ago but I had a piece of metal removed from my right eye and wasn't feeling too well. After working all day with one eye I was too exhausted. Yesterday I picked up a transformer and drove about 225 miles round trip. I posted a pic of it knowing it is not 4WD related...this thing is just too cool and will blow arms and legs off

I don't have a plastic trim inside the pillar. You kept telling me to just drill a hole in the pillar and I kept thinking that this would be kind of ugly looking but if me mate says to drill I was going to drill. I have had second thoughts on this and would like to make something to clamp onto the rain gutter on the outside. Not sure yet. Thank you and Andy for your suggestions.