Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am toying with the idea of a dual fuel Biodiesel setup on the GQ.
I know its a common rail setup (TD42) & these engines will burn just about anything oily, but wondering if anyone has any relevant experience with this type of fuel?
I have a source where I can get the oil from & it has already been refined & filtered by the bloke I can get it from because he runs his mazda B series on it. He reckons he gets better power , Cleaner oil & no chimney smoke. The only downside I can see is smelling Greasy Joes fish & chippery everywhere you go.
I have read a little, but would like some real world input.

Thanks, Stew

do a search , There been heaps of info on it b4. I think the distributer type fuel pumps dont like the fish and chip oil.

Share a few linkswith ya


http://www.shortcircuit.com.au/fatburner.html

http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_aleksnew.html

http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html#biodwvo

cheers

Thanks Pongo.
Don't want to sound silly but Distributer type fuel pump? & what don't they like about the the deep fried goodness?

Think diesel for dummies & thats me. Never owned one before & the ones I drove before were work trucks & you know how company vehicles get treated. ..... They dont.

Wish these guys would startup here i have emailed them to ask but no reply yet
http://www.farmersfuel.com.au/SAFF%20Biodiesel.htm

interesting post on exploroz


The post

A write-up in the Motoring pages of the West Australian has a spokesman from Toyota, Mike Breen, state that with a BIODIESEL blend over 5% you would not be covered by warranty.

Nissan spokesman, Karl Gehling, said that the company did not recommend the use of BIODIESEL in any of its models.

DaimlerChrysler, Mercedes and Volkswagon spokesmen also said up to 5% was OK with BMW stating that they do not recommend BIODIESEL at all. Land Rover said that their handbooks specifically stated that their engines were not compatible with BIODIESEL.

Peugot was the exception with their statement that bio to a maximum blend up to 30% would not void the warranty.

I was just getting interested in the Gull B20, but now, hmmm?

The company my dad drives for has a huge fleet of semi`s {over 250 company trucks},1 of there depots was using BioDiesel until Cummins and Detroit sent them a letter stating that if they didnt stop using it all vehicles will have warranty cancelled .

With the spiralling fuel prices biodiesel seems to be a cheaper (certainly smarter on a planetary level) solution. And from some limited reading I've done is simple enough to produce in the "backyard".

However, commercially produced biodiesel available at the pump may have a very short spell as a cheap alternative as the government plans to put a fuel excise on it in 2011.

And the few reports I have heard from people running it is slightly reduced power, similar economy and CHEAP (backyard labs!).

Trusa wrote:However, commercially produced biodiesel available at the pump may have a very short spell as a cheap alternative as the government plans to put a fuel excise on it in 2011.

... there is already excise on it

2011 is the LPG excise.

hey bogged, dont forget a while ago all the auto manufacturers were puppetted out to say dont use an ethanol blend or you will lose warranty etc. etc.

yeah the same companies just happen to make vehicles for the brazillian market where they run 100% ethanol.

smells like the same oil company backed scare campaign.

dont forget that the compression ignition engine was invented for a bio diesel, as "dino" fuels wern't even invented yet.

some seals may not be compatible but overall i think its a great thing.

bradley wrote:dont forget that the compression ignition engine was invented for a bio diesel, as "dino" fuels wern't even invented yet.

I've seen this sort of statement a number of times in Biodiesel discussions. Fair enough comment, I guees, but have engines been designed to suit Bio or Dino in the last 100 years?
My suspicion is that there have been a few technical advances since Herr Diesel came up with his original design, and they have all centred on Dino-diesel.

Having said that, if we could get it here in Melb, I've give it a go.

Ian

I'm about to give it a crack, we can get it here in perth in 200l drums delivered for $240 1.20 per litre better than 1.49 which it is atm over here! I've gotta 1989 hilux ln106 2.8 turbo diesel with a safari turbo. Apart from the fuel lines what sorta consequences are to be expected running b100. like are there seals in the engine that will just shit themself or what?
cheers

ohh and if anyones interested have a look at this forum
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/index.php?

Stew77 wrote:Thanks Pongo.
Don't want to sound silly but Distributer type fuel pump? & what don't they like about the the deep fried goodness?

Think diesel for dummies & thats me. Never owned one before & the ones I drove before were work trucks & you know how company vehicles get treated. ..... They dont.

I only know this from what i read off the net. Mine has a inline rail pump and yours has a distributor type fuel pump. ( cause its round and all the injector pipes come off the end )

BadLux wrote:I'm about to give it a crack, we can get it here in perth in 200l drums delivered for $240 1.20 per litre better than 1.49 which it is atm over here! I've gotta 1989 hilux ln106 2.8 turbo diesel with a safari turbo. Apart from the fuel lines what sorta consequences are to be expected running b100. like are there seals in the engine that will just shit themself or what?
cheers

ohh and if anyones interested have a look at this forum
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/index.php?

^ best site. i have had nothing but good experiences with bio-diesel. i run a non-turbo diesel 1982 MQ patrol with the 3.3L engine. Ran approximatley 140L of B50 (50/50 bio and dino) thru and found it to have more power and response, and smoke noticeably less.

one point to mention, b100 (100% biodiesel) has a gelling point above your average australian winter temperature, so you can't run it during winter -- or at least, you shouldnt unless you're keen on it gelling in your fuel filter.


biodiesel is the BEST thing you can ever run your 4wd on -- it's fantastic for the environment and it's great for your truck. once you try it you'll never go back.

there are a few palces around sydney doing it now.
one of my mates gets it from woodville road near merrylands.
its a b20 blend so it should be fine for most cars.
cant remember the name of the servo.

one point to mention, b100 (100% biodiesel) has a gelling point above your average australian winter temperature, so you can't run it during winter -- or at least, you shouldnt unless you're keen on it gelling in your fuel filter.

biodiesel is the BEST thing you can ever run your 4wd on -- it's fantastic for the environment and it's great for your truck. once you try it you'll never go back.[/quote]

to stop the biodiesel jelling you should run it thru a heat exchanger (abit like a shower one) or a local bloke bought an american inline electric biodiesel heater, you also should run a electric lift pump with the biodiesel (makes it easier on distributor pumps).

Been using the GULL Bio-D, Geraldton and Bunbury are the only WA country "city's" to have it on pump, here in geraldton diesel is $1.52 a litre, Gull Bio-d is $1.44, a bit cheaper, have'nt noticed any difference in preformance
Hoppy

The comment on Ethanol above is not quite true re manf. To run higher than 10% they change the synthetic seals and hoses. Also fuel rail, connections and pipes for those O/S markets are different metals ie, SS.

With Bio Diesell the same probs exist. Pump seal and hoses may get degraded.
Also for a rotary pump you need to ensure it can lube the pump and cam.

Ive seen one tank of pump bio strip out so much crap from the metal tank lining that a fuel filter change was required DAILY for 2 weeks. Owner went back to normall diesel

Bazzle

mav wrote:one point to mention, b100 (100% biodiesel) has a gelling point above your average australian winter temperature, so you can't run it during winter -- or at least, you shouldnt unless you're keen on it gelling in your fuel filter.

Was wondering what happens when you camp at Craigs Hut overnight, and try and drive the next day lol

bogged wrote:

mav wrote:one point to mention, b100 (100% biodiesel) has a gelling point above your average australian winter temperature, so you can't run it during winter -- or at least, you shouldnt unless you're keen on it gelling in your fuel filter.

Was wondering what happens when you camp at Craigs Hut overnight, and try and drive the next day lol

I run the 50/50 diesel & WVO during winter with no problems in WA.


Diesel $1.49ltr

WVO $0.00ltr

50/50 diesel & WVO $0.745ltr

Been using it in my GU 4.2Turbo Patrol from the Marrickville place.Got it at a servo in Kempsey when I was up there too.Haven't had a problem.Smells fine.Bit of smoke on start up sometimes.Saw commercial trucks filling up with it in Kempsey.
Just changed fuel filter after first few tanks.Apparently she cleans out your fuel system.Tasted it too.Tasted like sesame oil.Its non toxic.Would only put B50 in it through winter though.Because of the gelling.
Apparently Nissans in Europe run on it.Why wouldn't they here?

longlux wrote:

bogged wrote:

mav wrote:one point to mention, b100 (100% biodiesel) has a gelling point above your average australian winter temperature, so you can't run it during winter -- or at least, you shouldnt unless you're keen on it gelling in your fuel filter.

Was wondering what happens when you camp at Craigs Hut overnight, and try and drive the next day lol

I run the 50/50 diesel & WVO during winter with no problems in WA.


Diesel $1.49ltr

WVO $0.00ltr

50/50 diesel & WVO $0.745ltr

wvo must cost something? unless you are getting an inside deal etc. even if you make it there would be costs involved.

Buckshot wrote:Been using it in my GU 4.2Turbo Patrol from the Marrickville place.Got it at a servo in Kempsey when I was up there too.Haven't had a problem.Smells fine.Bit of smoke on start up sometimes.Saw commercial trucks filling up with it in Kempsey.
Just changed fuel filter after first few tanks.Apparently she cleans out your fuel system.Tasted it too.Tasted like sesame oil.Its non toxic.Would only put B50 in it through winter though.Because of the gelling.
Apparently Nissans in Europe run on it.Why wouldn't they here?

as morris explained it the main mixture available in europe is a b20 because of the high demand. that content is not enough to cause gelling problems.

would you mind telling me where the servo is in kempsey? ive heard of one but never been there. my old man lives in port macquarie and i've been trying to convince him it's worth running bio in his TD 80 series.

If you are heading south on the Pacific highway its on your left hand side as you are going through Kempsey.Green and yellow coloured signs.
They do a blend.I think its B20 and they do B100.

muppet_man67 wrote:

longlux wrote:

bogged wrote:

mav wrote:one point to mention, b100 (100% biodiesel) has a gelling point above your average australian winter temperature, so you can't run it during winter -- or at least, you shouldnt unless you're keen on it gelling in your fuel filter.

Was wondering what happens when you camp at Craigs Hut overnight, and try and drive the next day lol

I run the 50/50 diesel & WVO during winter with no problems in WA.


Diesel $1.49ltr

WVO $0.00ltr

50/50 diesel & WVO $0.745ltr

wvo must cost something? unless you are getting an inside deal etc. even if you make it there would be costs involved.

Waste Veggie Oil (old stuff from fryers) free from road house filtered through an old Sheet doubled over & then a paper filter.

But when I get the spare cash I am going to get a 5 micron sock filter & make a small filter plant.

Hello
I have for awile run my truck on ethier chip fat or veg oil.Truck has had no problems at all.Bugger alll diference in performance.Have a seperate 45ltr heated tank for the oil and a seperate cav filter .I have a adjustable thermatic swith fitted to the tank.When the oil reachs the corect temp it then switchs over to oil.Will soon have a engine timer set up so as when I want to stop it will cut back to diesel and run for a few minutes before stoping.The only hassle I have had is in the proccess side,wich has been my own fault.I have up till now not had the chip or veg oil filtered enough.Have brought a bag filter wich will improve things no end.Also improving the heating of the oil befor the filtering.At about 30-40 cents a ltr it is worth the mucking around sorting thing out.
Cheers

Dyna Beast wrote:Hello
I have for awile run my truck on ethier chip fat or veg oil.Truck has had no problems at all.Bugger alll diference in performance.Have a seperate 45ltr heated tank for the oil and a seperate cav filter .I have a adjustable thermatic swith fitted to the tank.When the oil reachs the corect temp it then switchs over to oil.Will soon have a engine timer set up so as when I want to stop it will cut back to diesel and run for a few minutes before stoping.The only hassle I have had is in the proccess side,wich has been my own fault.I have up till now not had the chip or veg oil filtered enough.Have brought a bag filter wich will improve things no end.Also improving the heating of the oil befor the filtering.At about 30-40 cents a ltr it is worth the mucking around sorting thing out.
Cheers

This mob are in WA.

http://www.microlube.com.au/index.html

I've made and run B100 with good results and also 50/50 WVO/Diesel and it seemed to work ok too. at the moment though I'm mixing 5 litres of kero per 100 of Diesel mix because it gets cold as a MF here and even straight diesel gels and I cant start the rig till at least 10.30 am I bought two 5 micron filter bags from Aus bio diesel asoc for 45 bux to filter everything......alls well so far