Outer Limits 4x4 Board

HI all,

On the weekend I'm fitting new extended brake lines that have been sitting in my garage for ages . Anyway it's been a while since I bleed car brakes (done lots and lots of dirt bikes, but they're easy!) and I know they can be a bit tricky, on my old truck I had I used to start on the front drivers side (shortest distance to master cylinder) and go clock wise, I think?

So with the GQ Patrols is there any particular pattern or anything I need to be aware of when I bleed the brakes after fitting the extended lines?

Thanks for the help people!

Cheers, Paul

I am doing exactly the same job this weekend so I will be interested in any replys, for me the only 'problem area' may be the brake bias thingamyjig, might need to start car to bleed the last bit of the rears -dunno will see. Give it a good flush out too, can save some expense down the line.

cheers fnq

Yeah fnq, was planning on flushing the system and putting all new fluid in while I'm at so I wanted to make sure I got the bleeding spot on! Also might look at making a new bracket for the bias valve to get it back to factory setting.

beretta wrote:Yeah fnq, was planning on flushing the system and putting all new fluid in while I'm at so I wanted to make sure I got the bleeding spot on! Also might look at making a new bracket for the bias valve to get it back to factory setting.

Bleed each section in turn. the way I did it was bleed the lines then put them on the caliper, then bleed front first then rear then wait 20 mins, then front then rear again. was pretty good after that

I'm pretty sure there's a pattern you should follow, like drivers front then passenger rear etc. etc., I read it somewhere ages ago but can't find it again, got a gregories manual handy it probably says it in there? I've got one somewhere but can't find it after moving house!

beretta wrote:I'm pretty sure there's a pattern you should follow, like drivers front then passenger rear etc. etc., I read it somewhere ages ago but can't find it again, got a gregories manual handy it probably says it in there? I've got one somewhere but can't find it after moving house!

standard for most cars is furthest point from master cyl to closest.
on patrols dont forget the brake bias bleeder!!!

It is easier and quicker to bleed brakes with a vacuum pump. Bleed furtest away first..ie...left rear finishing up at right front. vacuum pump can be set up to dump oil into a bottle before it actually gets to pump...can bleed brakes by yourself in half the time ...and is basically foolproof. I change my vehicle fluids every year with this method ...no probs yet.


Cheers Keith

i was taught by a mechanic furthest from master cylinder to closest as well.and only do short pump stints.ive come across some idiots that pump the crap out of the pedal then blead,by doing this it seams to airate the line so u lose all feeling then.

Yeah it`s normally furthest wheel to closest wheel. You need to be careful when using the pedal for bleeding as when you press right down you go beyond the ridge that is usually formed by wear. This can destroy the seal so I usually dont push the pedal down any further than it would normally travel when fully bled and working.
Alex

bogged wrote:[Bleed each section in turn. the way I did it was bleed the lines then put them on the caliper, then bleed front first then rear then wait 20 mins, then front then rear again. was pretty good after that

BWAHAHAHAAH , I thought you new everything Bogged . That is the stupidest way I have ever heard to bleed brakes

mkpatrol wrote:

bogged wrote:[Bleed each section in turn. the way I did it was bleed the lines then put them on the caliper, then bleed front first then rear then wait 20 mins, then front then rear again. was pretty good after that

BWAHAHAHAAH , I thought you new everything Bogged . That is the stupidest way I have ever heard to bleed brakes

maybe stupid, but it worked.

In the FSM it states, Load Sensing valve first, then the usual, furthest from the master cylinder ---> closest last.

Did it today fitting the rear hose all went smooth, moved to the front and 2.5 hours later after some extra metal line removal and refitting it was finally in and ready for bleeding.

** Buy a Nissan and for absolutely no charge they will throw in manufacturer specification cross-threaded brake lines **
Bugger me the air is still blue where the car was parked!

I bled the rear then front and totally ignored the bias valve (not sure if mine has a nipple), brakes are no better or worse than before (is it possible to lock a gq up on a dry road???? ) I used almost 1.2L of fluid and really couldn't see myself using any less no matter what I could have done different.
Beretta make sure you have enough fluid these use alot, I was lucky enough I had bought more than I needed for just the gq because I was also going to service the brakes on the other car.

Hope it all went well if you got to it today.

cheers fnq

Didn't get to it today unfortunately. Got my chopeed 1/4's finished and bar mostly fabbed up tho. Brake lines next weekend and some new srings maybe......

Thanks for the tips fnq and everyone else, it will help heaps.

Paul,

Bleeding brakes is easy, i just did it on my SWB the other day, on th brake proportioning valve, there is a nipple, and it sort of points up, so dont forget it,


then start furthest away LR -RR - Lf - RF, and you should be okay,

Good tip Ozy1 thanks I will have another go at it tomorrow and take a good look at the bias valve and follow your plan, the brakes pull the car up fast, the ABS I have without having ABS ,and I can really stomp on them, I am a pretty big fella. Dont know if this is typical or not.

Beretta sounds like you were busy regardless, I forget to say the reason I used so much fluid was because of the flush.

Will let you know how I go with the bias valve and correct order bleed.

cheers fnq

YEP! furtherest piont to closest piont, bias valve in between and short pushes on pedal.

Its easy,just take your time no rush.

Ian.