Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok well i know that the body lift thing has been done to death, i realise what i need, how many blocks i need and that ill have to adjust the radiator. But my question is

-will i need to adjust the steering/Transfer case or Gbox levers

One more question

-where is the rear recovery point on an 86 NC, i know there is a thing in the middle of the bumper bar(yellow). But i was reading on the paj club of vic wesite and they siad its only meant for towing not the shock loading of a snatch.

So if thats not a recovery point how do i attatch another one.



Thanks fellas

Just loosen the steering shaft where it goes onto the steering box to allow it to move. To do so required the removal of the bolt.

You prob won't need to do anything with the lever's, only on the super select manual ones you do.

The Mitsubishi Owner's Club of Qld asks members to ensure they have a D loop on that point to use for snatch recoveries. It's what I use, although I haven't done many snatches - and I use a "gently-gently" approach, rather than "max noise."

Of course, a rated recovery hook on each chassis rail or a H-R style hitch receiver is also worth considering.

Cheers,

Scott

Thanks scott,

i normally dont go that fast any way (its a 2.6), but will consider getting proper hooks done when i finish off my new rear bumper

thanks

Sorry NCpaj - just had another (good) look at your photo. The "D" loop to which I was referring bolts to the pattern of four holes immediately to the right of your yellow loop. That's what I use.

Edit: see attached pic - well, the pic which would be attached if pics were working.

I don't know how that yellow thing is attached, but I wouldn't use it for much more than hanging a bottle opener while in camp.

I'll try to pay better attention next time.

Scott

the hook where the 4 bolts are is what i use.
i have done plenty of recoveries with the hook without any problems. including cruisers and pootrols.

Thanks for the replies, i spose its off to the wreakers to get one that will bolt on from a later model.

Sorry but Im going to disagree.

Better still, get one that made that is nice and strong and never worry about it failing and clobering someone in the swede.

Your right NJ but the hook your showing is, I suspect, a cast one not a forged one which means it will break when it fails instead
of just straightening.
I have carried out several hook tests on a test rig.
The bighorn hook with 10mm bolts snaps the bolts around 5 tonne
Drilled out to take 12mm bolts the hook snaps, nowhere near the drilling, at around 6 tonne
The Black Rat Black hook snapped around 5 Tonne
The Black Rat Chrome hook straightened around 5 Tonne
The Supa Cheap Ridge Rider Black hook snapped around 8 Tonne
The Bush Ranger Black hook straightened around 5 Tonne
3/4 shank towball snapped around 8 Tonne
Pintle Hook/Nato Coupling stripped the 10mm mounting bolts ie Patrol, around 12 Tonne
Pintle Hook with 12mm 8.8 bolts stalled the test rig around 20 Tonne
The Pintle tests were a straight on pull, an angled pull would load 2 bolts more with a leverage factor accross the mount face
All these tests were a increaseing load pull, not a snatch which could lower the results.
Most Snatch Straps are at least 8 Tonne rated and the 24mm stretch ropes
are 12 Tonne so you need a safety factor in the attachments for repetitive
usage
J Top

Hi JTop,
Very interesting indeed, and more information than possibly many of us knew about. I think the biggest thing is using a eye like on the back of Paj's is that some sort of shackel needs to be used to fix the rope to the vehicle leading to more 'parts to fly' if something should go awol.

What do you suggest for someone like me then using mine in a club situation with some reasonably serious yanks?

Obviously a pintle hook if possible but otherwise? The 10000 pound hooks are obviously quite disappointing according to your figures and not all are created equal.

Thanks for that info.
NJ

NJ
The Snatchmaster hooks from Cookes straighten around 9.8 Tonne, this opens a new can of worms as the M12x1.75 bolts broke first.
I run Cookes hooks with 1/2" grade 8 bolts.
Your mounting plate could bend on a downwards pull, stretching the bolts, I would run gussets beside the nuts to support the plate.
You dont know the strength of the captive nuts in the back of your chassis so perhaps a backup nut behind.
I agree about the shackle, just another missle
J Top

this is turning into a can of worms

after reading the replies im going to get two forged hooks mounted to my rails and the mounting plates will be strenghthened.

What you have to remember is that 10000lb is around 5 tonne, so they all met SWL.
If you want to exceed SWL then thats where the SHTF.

obviously 2 hooks will distribute the load and halve the forces leading to the snatch strap failing before the either of the hooks (hopefully less of a projectile. IMO.

4wd26 wrote:What you have to remember is that 10000lb is around 5 tonne, so they all met SWL.
If you want to exceed SWL then thats where the SHTF.

obviously 2 hooks will distribute the load and halve the forces leading to the snatch strap failing before the either of the hooks (hopefully less of a projectile. IMO.

Not entirely true. It depends on the angle of the strap or rope that they are connected together with.

point taken,
BUT I would be trying to have my recovery point (on the vehicle) the strongest part of the recovery situation, NOT the weakest.

The mines are having all sorts of problems at the moment sorting out vehicle recoverys and "rated" attachment points.

ok, because my rear bar (due to money) is still in pieces in the shed i was reading a site on the net about recovery points, and i think they rasie a very good point, could i use the towing spot with the tow ball removed and the 'd' shackle through that.

its very strong held in by 4 massive bolts, if it does come undone it has to go through my 3mm steel rear bar. also it looks to be much stonger than the point i was useing before.

so what do u think

I have heard of people using this method.
check the threads before risking a recovery (or even towing) as the vehicles are getting old and I have found reference on the net to the bolts pulling out of the threads.

never be too careful

cool thanks, i think ill use this method as its quick and saves me money,

as for bolts losing their thread ill just wack some new hi tensile ones in to be sure.

NCpaj wrote:ok, because my rear bar (due to money) is still in pieces in the shed i was reading a site on the net about recovery points, and i think they rasie a very good point, could i use the towing spot with the tow ball removed and the 'd' shackle through that.

its very strong held in by 4 massive bolts, if it does come undone it has to go through my 3mm steel rear bar. also it looks to be much stonger than the point i was useing before.

so what do u think

Because the ball mount is lower than four bolts the forces won't be evenly distributed across all four bolts, and you'll also have a torque applied to the mounting plate and cross member. You'll almost certainly get away with some snatch recoveries this way, but I would expect it to cause trouble eventually.

How many recoveries you'll get away with I wouldn't like to guess, so I would advise against it. I think it's safer to mount a D loop on the four bolts, and use a shackle.

Scott

I think it's safer to mount a D loop on the four bolts, and use a shackle.

yeah i agree but for the mean time ill use the towing thing as its much safer than the other hook i was going to use.