Outer Limits 4x4 Board

My rear tailshaft has a lot of slack in the splines. Changing the the slip yoke didn't help, so I guess the splines are no good on the shaft. Shaft has never been very straight, but has a few more dints and stuff in it.

I haven't tried the wreckers yet, as a lwb zook rear is probably rare/dear.
Can I get a tailshaft recoed or repaired or do I need to chase a new one?

christover

any tailshaft joint will be able to repair the old one .if not they can just cut the tube and make a new one.

usually costs around the $150 to $220 for a sierra..

mud4b wrote:any tailshaft joint will be able to repair the old one .if not they can just cut the tube and make a new one.

usually costs around the $150 to $220 for a sierra..

Beauty, thanx for that, it may be wise to get a new one anyway, as the rear does a lot of work. I think I've used it as a skid plate on odd occassions, too

christover

christover1 wrote:

mud4b wrote:any tailshaft joint will be able to repair the old one .if not they can just cut the tube and make a new one.

usually costs around the $150 to $220 for a sierra..

Beauty, thanx for that, it may be wise to get a new one anyway, as the rear does a lot of work. I think I've used it as a skid plate on odd occassions, too

christover

in that case ask them to make a thickwall shaft... it will be as above at around $220...

i have some decent grovves in mine from sliding it on rocks and its still strait as.

mud4b wrote:

christover1 wrote:

mud4b wrote:any tailshaft joint will be able to repair the old one .if not they can just cut the tube and make a new one.

usually costs around the $150 to $220 for a sierra..

Beauty, thanx for that, it may be wise to get a new one anyway, as the rear does a lot of work. I think I've used it as a skid plate on odd occassions, too

christover

in that case ask them to make a thickwall shaft... it will be as above at around $220...

i have some decent grovves in mine from sliding it on rocks and its still strait as.

Wise words as usual, thanks, that's an even better idea.
If I ever get sensible enough to move North, You'd get my business.

cheers

christover

christover1 wrote:

mud4b wrote:

christover1 wrote:

mud4b wrote:any tailshaft joint will be able to repair the old one .if not they can just cut the tube and make a new one.

usually costs around the $150 to $220 for a sierra..

Beauty, thanx for that, it may be wise to get a new one anyway, as the rear does a lot of work. I think I've used it as a skid plate on odd occassions, too

christover

in that case ask them to make a thickwall shaft... it will be as above at around $220...

i have some decent grovves in mine from sliding it on rocks and its still strait as.

Wise words as usual, thanks, that's an even better idea.
If I ever get sensible enough to move North, You'd get my business.

cheers

christover

thanks bud...

I reckon get a new one made with longer splines etc so its perfect for ur flex...

while you're at it, see how much discount theyll give for the old one (sometimes theyll reco them when theyre quiet and on sell em).

alien wrote:I reckon get a new one made with longer splines etc so its perfect for ur flex...

while you're at it, see how much discount theyll give for the old one (sometimes theyll reco them when theyre quiet and on sell em).

Yes, that could be a verygood idea.
Will give that some thought.
Though I like to keep things simple, so as to be cheap to replace if needed.
My T-case is back 20mm or so, so the stock splines are getting more contact than stock. (front wasn't happy, so it got a spacer)

I will be trying a few slip yokes next week, in case my shaft bit is ok, and both my slidy bits are buggered.

christover

i just replaced mine with double cardon lux shafts.....................
love em.. strong no vibes.. one side will bolt on to standard wt pattern just need to re drill other side! easy done!
my 55c
Philby

Red_Zook wrote:i just replaced mine with double cardon lux shafts.....................
love em.. strong no vibes.. one side will bolt on to standard wt pattern just need to re drill other side! easy done!
my 55c
Philby

Mines 1.0 litre NT driveline, doubt if that's same story?

So far, it looks like repairing my shaft would be silly, as it's got so many new bits needed, that I may as well build a newy.
Out of my price range, over $400. That's about $200 for tube and $200 for new spline and slip yoke.

More possible is to grab a swb front 1.3 shaft (as 1.0 swb shafts are solid and can't easily be modded) and have it re-tubed longer to suit the LWB. This can be done around 180 to 220 depending who I ask.

I could step down to 1.0 at the ends with the half 1.0 litre yoke trick.

A front or rear 1.3 be fine, I just figure a front be less worn?

And I think splines are same, but wouldn't really matter.

This depends on how cheaply I get a 1.3 swb shaft for, otherwise would get a new spline and slip yoke thing for mine,

More thinking needed. But mine is dead.
christover

would you like me to see what i can do from this end..

so you need 1lt flanges yes?

do you really need a long slip shaft or can i just get the shaft sline moved to suit..

do you have more down travel than up?

i also need a length on flat ground from flange to flange please measure from the centre.
and finally a post code so i can suss out freight..

mud4b wrote:would you like me to see what i can do from this end..
so you need 1lt flanges yes?
do you really need a long slip shaft or can i just get the shaft sline moved to suit..
do you have more down travel than up?
i also need a length on flat ground from flange to flange please measure from the centre.
and finally a post code so i can suss out freight..

It is stock 1.0 litre LWB rear tailshaft.
Stock length and stock flanges and yokes etc.
A 2nd hand one may be fine.
A rough idea of price of both a heavy duty walled tube reco and a 2nd hand would be appreciated.
I can't promise a buy, so don't commit any $ or energy.
I've measured what I think you mean, as shaft is out, not sure where it sits at rest. Spline is stock length rear 1.0 litre.
Suspension is Stock length OME shox and springs with 50mm longer shacles. So I guess more droop than compression??
If ya need another measurement, let me know.
Thanks.

I'm in Croydon Victoria 3136
christover

870mm flange to flange on a not quite flat surface.

Trans case is back only 20mm from stock, and raised 20mm from stock, so stock length shaft has been ok, so far?

christover

Today I put the rear tailshaft back in, with the splines wrapped in tape. FWD only, with a lockrite is no fun.
I don't expect it will last long, but it was for a test, and I was surprised how little shakes there was.
I guess aluminium coke can could be a better patch.
So I guess most of the problem is in the splines,
with only a small part in the tube dents and/or bends.
Still needs fixin, but is driveable now, while I hunt/decide on ways to get shafted.
christover