Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey I have posted something similar before but it went a stray so here I go again.

I need to get my front arms cranked and probably lengthened all to correct castor in my RR.
Does anyone have any names and/or numbers I can contact in regards to getting this done

Cheers Peoples


P.S. I finally got the XRCC video from Landcruiser Mountain Park event, well done boys it looked like an awsome weekend Exspecially the white hilux rollin

Lengthening may not be necessary.

After cranking mine they ended up 1-2mm shorter.

place a washer on arm before installing.

Michael.

G'day

Do you guys crank your arms to correct castor ?

Why not elongate the swivel ball holes (where they mount onto the diff casing) and correct it that way ?

No! cranking arms does this:
1: returns the chasy bush geometry to std.
2: sets pinion to correct angle.
3: corrects castor.

michael.

i was considering elongating the swivel housings but I have 4.5-5" of total lift so i am gonna crank the arms to correct as much as possible and any fuirther adjustments would be completed by the former method.

And cranking the Arms is apparently the best method

I have on shelf Rovertym front and rear arms and aframe spacers direct from the USA .
Front arms $500
Rear arms package with aframe spacers $450
your welcome to email me at
www.teamslowracing.com

I already have rear ball joint spacer, adjustable front & rear shock mounts, brake line extensions (front) and an extended rear brake line. I am also in the process of purchasing an extended and balanced front drive shaft, 4.5-5" lift springs, modified crossmember & a set of front radius arms and rear linkages (they are bein thrown in aswell as another set of extended front brake lines).

I am still waiting on the 30% longer travel bilstein shocks from Rangie Spares, but hopefully they not to far away.

I want to find someone (preferably in my area) that can modify one pair of my front radius arms to the correct castor (will have to find out exact amount after installing springs and shocks)

After i have this all corrected i will get started on the protection side of things, such as stronger steering arms and I am considering a full customised Underbody bash plate aswell a front bash plate.

SO MUCH FOR MY TIGHT BUDGET

AnthonyP wrote:P.S. I finally got the XRCC video from Landcruiser Mountain Park event, well done boys it looked like an awsome weekend Exspecially the white hilux rollin

That was me

if you are after a good bash plate check out the one AMV in Adaliade distributes.

Well done Ruff got me up and outta me seat

AMV??? any links to some of their stuff??? Is it just a front bash plate cause i want a good under body one.

I have checked out C.O.R.E 4X4 www.core4x4.com.au and sent them an email I am just waiting on a response. But at the moment $500 seems abit pricey, but if its the best offer I get I am gonna have to take it

anthony, bill at offroad rover in bayswater can crank your front arms.
his arms have an "s" in them so duel front tyres didn't rub at full lock
bent them cold i think, no heat and no loss of strength.

anthony, bill at offroad rover in bayswater can crank your front arms.
his arms have an "s" in them so duel front tyres didn't rub at full lock
bent them cold i think, no heat and no loss of strength.

Brad C wrote:I have on shelf Rovertym front and rear arms and aframe spacers direct from the USA .
Front arms $500
Rear arms package with aframe spacers $450
your welcome to email me at
www.teamslowracing.com

Brad

I think those radius arms will fit my 90 - are they bent or lengthened as well? Are they core exchange?

G'day,

doesn't cranking the arms make the pinion sit flatter like a stock setup? wouldn't that make worse angles for the prop shaft uni Joints?

I'm going to be running a 2" lift on my project 90, I assume you guys recommend cranking the front arms?

Would I be right in assuming you gain abit more droop with crank arms (due to correcting the chassis bush geometry) or is there no differance?

Cranking arm allows the bush at chassy mount to sit neutral (std) allows for more droop provided you have longer shocks.

cranking also corrects the pinion angle.

Also corrects castor.

Drive shaft angle will increase due to the lift, but with out correcting the angle of the pinion you can get vibes.

Michael.

Hi Lowbox , yes they are longer by 30mm front and rear this helps to roll the diff back to correct castor angle , we do a core charge of $50 but seeing your over NZ frieght would kill you so it's just the straight $500 , most of the people who have them fitted just fright them a week or 2 later once they have fitted and are happy with them . HTH
Regards Brad C

Looks like Im gonna have two sets of standard front radius arms, and have to buy a whole new set of cranked ones ( $500 ).

How much could i sell the two pairs of standard radius arms??? If i can get some cash back i wont feel so sad forking out the extra $500

Ow shit still got the rears to think about


edit: bill at offroad rover???? any contact details???

tho0se arms are nide but is it a necessary mod?
anyone with a press should be able to bend them
i have seen cranked std. arms, longer shocks, longer springs flex very nice. full travel out of a rancho 9012 is possible


bill @ offroar rover 03 9761 7887

Ok I rang Bill and spoke with him, (shouldnt have cause now i have another plan to give a hot at)

Check my latest post (DAMIT I AM 69 posts i dont wanna make another one)

Can anyone confirm if radius arms are any different on a rangie and a 90? I think they are the same on 90's, 110s, rangies and discos but not 100% sure...

I had a look under a Def90 about a week ago and was suprised how much it looks like a RR belly.
I thought the Front Raduis were the same.

Does anyone know of a Safari Gard distributer in oz I WANT THE 3 LINK Front but no one has one second hand

castor corrected front radius arms will fit def 90/110/130 and disco 1
cranked rear radius arms or trailing arms will fit def90/110/130 and disco 1 also

i just got some rear ones and starting putting them in this arvo..but unfortunatly 4.5K worth of tools was stolen out of my work car on tuesday so my mate is bring round a bigger socket set
castor corrected front radius arms are going in next week..
mine are terrafirma from the uk. http://www.terrafirma4x4.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ps i think i should update my avatar as my disco doesnt look anything like that anymore...
flares, 33's, barwork, 2" suspension lift and castor corrected soon (also investigating xr6 turbo and intercooler, ls1 computer and injectors, bosch fuel pump, blitz boost controller and obviously custom manifold for single turbo

ya 7 years late on that post
sucks about the tools though

just a quickie, how does cranking arms correct castor, if you only bend them to correct how the diff sits? castor is technically wheelbase so without lengthening the castor wont change.

Ye Olde Rangie wrote:just a quickie, how does cranking arms correct castor, if you only bend them to correct how the diff sits? castor is technically wheelbase so without lengthening the castor wont change.

The castor can be be corrected by changing the shape of the radius arms, or with offset bushes, but neither of those methods is as good as slotted or re-drilled swivel balls.

Castor is measured in degrees and is different to wheelbase and there is no need to change the wheelbase or length of radius arms to correct the castor. Consider that different model Land Rovers over the years have had numerous wheelbases between 88" and 127", all with much the same castor angle.

yeah i understand that castor is measured in degrees. Im a suspension tech by trade and im just trying to come to terms with how the castor changes without lengthening the arms, as castor is measured from the top to bottom of the pivot points ie top of spring to bottom

how good was my 7 year later post! only saw the date after i posted..haha fairly funny
they make a difference..handles SO much better.. (for mine anyway..2" lift, 33's, roofrack, bar work etc)

Ye Olde Rangie wrote:yeah i understand that castor is measured in degrees. Im a suspension tech by trade and im just trying to come to terms with how the castor changes without lengthening the arms, as castor is measured from the top to bottom of the pivot points ie top of spring to bottom

We're talking solid axle, not independent struts.

With struts caster/camber correction is often done at the top end of the spring or where the strut bolts to the hub. But solid axle is very different.
On a solid axle the radius arms pointing forwards cause the whole front diff to rotate as the suspension extends and compresses. This means your caster angle is constantly changing. Those running their vehicles at a different ride height (i.e. spring lift) have caused the front axle to sit rotated from it's usual position which reduces caster. They either slot and rotate the swivel joints on the ends of the axle to bring it back or bend the radius arms which rotates the whole axle back close to it's original caster angle.

Ye Olde Rangie wrote:yeah i understand that castor is measured in degrees. Im a suspension tech by trade and im just trying to come to terms with how the castor changes without lengthening the arms, as castor is measured from the top to bottom of the pivot points ie top of spring to bottom

If you are a suspension tech, I will not try and explain what castor is, but you were incorrect in your earlier post where you stated "castor is technically wheelbase so without lengthening the castor wont change" and also incorrect in the context of Land Rovers with solid axles where you stated "top of spring to bottom". Perhaps your wording has not explained what you mean very well.

A Land Rover with radius arms measures roughly 840 mm from the centre of the axle to the point where the radius arm pivots on the chassis (some, such as disco II have longer radius arms than this). The radius arm is attached to the axle housing with a pair of bushes and bolt - one in front and one behind the housing. A stock Land Rover with radius arms has approximately 3 degrees castor.

Now if the suspension is raised approximately 50 mm, simple trigonometry will show you that in this situation the angle that the radius arm makes to the horizontal plane through the pivot point is then a little over 3 degrees lower than it was at the stock ride height position (arctan 50/840 = 3.4 degrees). The attachment of the radius arm to the axle housing forces the axle housing to rotate through the same angle change as the radius arm - thus the castor changes.

Radius arms for castor correction resemble/duplicate a stock radius arm that is bent/cranked upward where the radius arm attaches to the axle housing. This rotates the axle housing back to be the same as before the suspension lift. Normally they will also be bent in the area where the chassis bush is, to remove the deflection in those bushes, not for castor correction.

The problem with this is that it rotates the diff pinion down and increases the angle of the drive shaft, leading to vibrations. This is why (at least with Land Rovers) it is better rotate the swivel balls to correct castor and not do it with corrected radius arms or eccentric bushes in the radius arms.

Wow blast from the past!

Anyone want to buy my 2D Extreme front cranked radius arms to suit a 5" lift?
I need some with less crank and about 2" longer now.

As for pinion angles.... I have found that with 5" lift and the correct crank it brings the pinion angle into almost perfect alignment for a double cardon arrangement at the tcase (which is what I currently have). Never had a problem until I dropped the front to 3" (now i am offically over cranked and have approx 5-6 degrees of castor. Now I have a slight vibration under acceleration, if the arms were 1-2" longer it would be spot on again!