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welding a radiator
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 2:02 pm
by Madmac
my GQ tb42 seems to have developed a leak around the area where the drain plug is located, i suspect its a fine crack in the lower tank, but wont know for certain until i get it out tonight. what would be the best way to repair such a crack. and how thick or thin is the material the tank is made from. i yhave both a MIG and an oxy set. should i mig it. or would i be better off using the oxy and either silver solder or brazing rods? also should the plastic drain plug have some sort of rubber O ring or rubber washer on it?
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 2:16 pm
by midi73
From what I understand talking to radiator guys. It just needs soft solder. Radiators are only soft soldered together.
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 2:32 pm
by Gribble
Silver solder is good, soft solder will work well too. Dont braize it.
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 3:03 pm
by Madmac
thanks for info guys, ive got both blue and brown tip silver solder. so ill give that ago. cant really tell how much damage there is til i get it out tonight. hopefully its not too serious and i can patch it up
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 3:28 pm
by 81 rangie
i just used the nromal solder (stick0 on mine, and it has worked a treat. just has to be spotlessly clean or else it won't stick properly
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:44 pm
by Pinball
Gribble wrote:Silver solder is good, soft solder will work well too. Dont braize it.
Why not braze? I have done in the past for fords etc... and i from memory the tanks and frame were brazed from the factory...
Spock
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 6:59 pm
by 4x4Monkey
id take braze over solder for a repair
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:22 pm
by Screwy
I repaired a crack in my radiator using my oxy and some blue tip solder and flux.
this is braizing and does a very solid and well repaired job.
screwy
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:23 pm
by dumbdunce
Pinball wrote:Gribble wrote:Silver solder is good, soft solder will work well too. Dont braize it.
Why not braze? I have done in the past for fords etc... and i from memory the tanks and frame were brazed from the factory...
Spock
on 99.99% of copper/brass radiators the tanks are soldered to the core. if you try and braze, you will (a) blow holes in, (b) melt all the solder out from between the tanks and the core (c) get heat affected zones around the repair that will crack rapidly from heat stress and vibration (d) create a region where it is impossible to make a solder repair in the future. there is also the possibility of porosity around the brazed repair if you're a bit of a meathead with the torch, so under pressure soolant will leak through the metal.
if you have a genuine crack, you need to stop-drill it before you repair, or the crack will continue to propagate under the solder.
chances are, if your radiator has visible, weeping or leaking cracks, it has some more that you can't see yet just waiting to erupt - and the added pressure of sealing up one crack might be enough to set it off. I'm not saying don't repair it, but if you do, you have to treat it as a temporary measure to keep it on the road until you get it fixed properly.
cheers
DD