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body lift blocks
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 7:58 pm
by 4x4xmore
just wondering if aluminium lift blokes are able to be passed by qld transport. i can get a set cheap but just wondering if there legal.
who has hem in their 4x4 and have their been any probs with them
i sort of know the process in getting it approved as i have a 4x4 currently with approved body lift but theyre made of poly/nylon( red ones). i just want to know if alloy ones are legal.
thanks in advance
jason
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:07 pm
by -Scott-
My bodylift was approved using aluminium blocks. All the paperwork said metal blocks only, but there's been a number of reports here of Qld Transport approving blocks made of various engineering plastics.
When mine was being inspected I was told engineering plastics are only acceptable if a crush tube is installed. Others have posted that no tube required, somebody else questioned how they would check?
Personally, I'd be happy to use aluminium again.
YMMV.
Scott
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:21 pm
by vorno_18
just make sure they are as wide as the original mounts
a mate used some aluminium blocks that were about 1 inch diameter and one has pushed through the floor
ive got plastic ones in mine with a metal cruch tube insert, they seem fine
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:38 pm
by 4x4xmore
ther 50mm lift x 50mm diameter.
i have plastic (red ones) on my surf and they seem fine, but as said i can get alloy ones cheap so i might chuck a lift under the feroza. unless anyone has had bad a experience with alloy ones or know if the cant be approved
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 8:48 pm
by vorno_18
the plastic ones are cheap as
mine cost $112 postaged to me off ebay and bolts were $22 from bunnings
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:43 pm
by 4x4xmore
vorno_18 wrote:the plastic ones are cheap as
mine cost $112 postaged to me off ebay and bolts were $22 from bunnings
these are $40 the plastic ones on my surf were $25 each from ontrack 4x4
Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 9:47 pm
by GOT MUD
i had no probs with ally ones on the mq and they where 2nd hand so iam not sure how long they had been under the last truck but no probs and still going strong ive sold it but still see it every now and then

Posted: Mon May 15, 2006 10:43 pm
by BigMav
vorno_18 wrote:just make sure they are as wide as the original mounts
a mate used some aluminium blocks that were about 1 inch diameter and one has pushed through the floor
ive got plastic ones in mine with a metal cruch tube insert, they seem fine
Do you have any concerns that the plastic/nurethane will possibly wear quicker than the steel crush tubes and eventually the crush tubes will punch through the floor? Or do you use a steel washer over the top of the block?
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 12:12 am
by Beastmavster
Theory is neither alloy or HDPE (Plastic) would wear as the body shouldnt actually move. If it does you have bigger issues than the wear rate
Had alloy for two lifts and plastic before that. No noticable difference.
A crush tube is a sensible requirement but not strictly necessary for any 2" lift. unless the lift is still in there 10 years later (unlikely - probably be in the tip by then) then it's engineering overkill.
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 10:00 am
by BigMav
Yeah thats a fair enough statement. Cheers.
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 12:22 pm
by Loanrangie
Of course the body will move, as the chassis flex's it will cause the body to move. I would use alloy/ steel over polyurethane for that reason even if they do last longer than rubber.
body lift
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 12:34 pm
by Hobie18
Glad this came up, I was about to post the same question. I have spoken to an engineer in Brisbane who advised that the polyeurathane with steel crush tube is ok as is steel but the alloy is too soft.
This is for a 50mm lift for a 1990 rangie.
Cheers Guy
Re: body lift
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 1:08 pm
by -Scott-
Hobie18 wrote:an engineer in Brisbane advised that the polyeurathane with steel crush tube is ok as is steel but the alloy is too soft.

What sort of alloy? Lead?
When I did mine Qld Transport paperwork stipulated steel or aluminium alloy. I used aluminium, and have no regrets.
Any engineers here able to calculate the compression strength of a 65mm diameter aluminium block? How much force will be required to permanently deform it?
Scott
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 7:23 pm
by HIL01X
vorno_18 wrote:the plastic ones are cheap as
mine cost $112 postaged to me off ebay and bolts were $22 from bunnings
Mine cost nothing. I allready had a hole saw
Hmmm, still no pics hey

Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 8:19 pm
by waxhead..
Ludacris posted my poly-urethane 2" blocks with crush tubes out today, I personally have had concerns about the rubber degrading over time and would have gone alloy if the availablility and cost was similar.
Installing saturday arvo, will have a good look at them when they arrive...
(GQ SWB).
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 5:22 pm
by ludacris
The alloy ones cause a metal fatigue or friction when they rub the body chasis. The blocks I sell come with galvanised crush tubes and are made of polyurethane. They will last a lot longer than 10 years. Queensland transport do not have any issues with them being used. Kits cost $150. 10 blocks and bolts.
LudaCris
lift
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 6:31 pm
by Sneddo
Why the facination with alloy if there is any doubt just get some 50mm round bar (steel) and drill out the holes on a lathe? Strong as they come and cost me $45- $50 from metaland