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LPG install (urgent)not so urgent now
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:31 pm
by STUMPY
Wondering, if i was to purchase a second hand gas setup, would it have to be professionally fitted or can i'm i able to fit the majority of the setup, leaving some of the finally stuff to them including the tuning?
Does anyone know what the compliance cost is?
Also the cost of tank testing?
Cheers Joel
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:33 pm
by -Mick-
yes you can fit the hardware like tank etc and leave the plumbing and approval to the pros..... saves a few $$$ but be sure you're doing it all properly. Search the net.
Can't help with other q's
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:33 pm
by pongo
Yeah you can fit it up your self mo dramas, May pay to find out the exact clearances needed for the gas line as the4y may have to refit it to pass inspection.
I think a tank reteset is about $160 . Its only a guess
Cheers
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:38 pm
by STUMPY
pongo wrote:Yeah you can fit it up your self mo dramas, May pay to find out the exact clearances needed for the gas line as the4y may have to refit it to pass inspection.
I think a tank reteset is about $160 . Its only a guess
Cheers
Yeah that what i thought
4Y?
The setup is from a VP commodore with the throttle body so it should be just fine for my engine, VN series1
Cheers Joel
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:41 pm
by chimpboy
I would run it by the guy certifying it first. Most will certify when they do the final hookup but if you run it by them first, they'll be able to tell you what they'll be looking for.
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:42 pm
by STUMPY
chimpboy wrote:I would run it by the guy certifying it first. Most will certify when they do the final hookup but if you run it by them first, they'll be able to tell you what they'll be looking for.
Auction ends tonight
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:46 pm
by -Mick-
STUMPY wrote:chimpboy wrote:I would run it by the guy certifying it first. Most will certify when they do the final hookup but if you run it by them first, they'll be able to tell you what they'll be looking for.
Auction ends tonight
think Chimpboy is more referring to tank/ hardware placement etc. But don't rush into purchasing this stuff 2nd hand gas setups pop up on ebay and the trading post all the time.
Make sure its all cool with an installer first
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 7:06 pm
by chimpboy
-Mick- wrote:STUMPY wrote:chimpboy wrote:I would run it by the guy certifying it first. Most will certify when they do the final hookup but if you run it by them first, they'll be able to tell you what they'll be looking for.
Auction ends tonight
think Chimpboy is more referring to tank/ hardware placement etc. But don't rush into purchasing this stuff 2nd hand gas setups pop up on ebay and the trading post all the time.
Make sure its all cool with an installer first
Sorry, yeah, I meant that before you start fitting anything you should talk to the guy who'll be doing the final connections and certifying it.
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 7:14 pm
by RaginRover
If you have to buy more than the relief valve it will set you back closer to $250 for the retest
Other than that I would budget another $200 for hoses and misc stuff diaphrams perhaps etc - you can't reuse the copper gas line and really I wouldn't bother reusing the filler line - these are about $40 each last time I bought them - need new twin core, wouldn't bother using the old wiring I would make a whole loom again.
Tom
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 7:44 pm
by STUMPY
well i ended up getting it.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... %3AIT&rd=1
I realise that i'm still up for some coin but at that price i think it'll be a significant saving on a new setup.
Thankyou for all your input.
Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 9:51 pm
by F'n_Rover
RaginRover wrote:If you have to buy more than the relief valve it will set you back closer to $250 for the retest
Other than that I would budget another $200 for hoses and misc stuff diaphrams perhaps etc - you can't reuse the copper gas line and really I wouldn't bother reusing the filler line - these are about $40 each last time I bought them - need new twin core, wouldn't bother using the old wiring I would make a whole loom again.
Tom
I was told you can't use copper on a chassis vehicale. I got the steel braided flexy line @ $15 pM plus around $10 each for the fittings.
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 8:15 am
by jessie928
you cant run copper along the chassis and then connect it up to the body because of flext between the cab ans the chassis. If your tank is mounted to the body then you can use the copper.
You dont have to run the complete way in braided line, just run 2 feet or so from the tank itself to the body where your copper starts.
Jes
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 8:39 am
by RaginRover
^
Jessie is spot on - you don't attach it to the chassis just the body as that is what the tank is bolted to.
The rangies and discos have a ribbed small corregated iron like form in the floor pan and it is very convenient for running gas lines along as they are extremely well protected.
Tom
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 12:36 pm
by Gribble
The australian standards for LPG/CNG fitment to passenger vehicles says that you CANNOT run copper full stop on a cab/chassis vehicle. It must be approved flexible braid from the tank to the converter.
(Yes, i have the standard in front of me right now.)
Joel if you need a hand with the LPG im a licensed installer, but i cannot certify the job for you.
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 1:59 pm
by jessie928
gribble,
a large percentage of LPG systems are fitted to 4wd's aith copper lines.When did this law come out?
also, when you say cab/chassis, are you sure it means all cars with a separate chassis like for instance a HQ ? or cab chassis as in UTE/trayback lingo cab/chassis, because utes are classed as cab/chassis.
so you are a licenced installer, but you cannot certify?
i have had certified MANY cars over the years all with copper pipe, this news is new to me?
Jes
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 2:00 pm
by STUMPY
Gribble wrote:The australian standards for LPG/CNG fitment to passenger vehicles says that you CANNOT run copper full stop on a cab/chassis vehicle. It must be approved flexible braid from the tank to the converter.
(Yes, i have the standard in front of me right now.)
Joel if you need a hand with the LPG im a licensed installer, but i cannot certify the job for you.
Thank Sam
I'll be in touch
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 2:45 pm
by Gribble
jessie928 wrote:gribble,
a large percentage of LPG systems are fitted to 4wd's aith copper lines.When did this law come out?
I did my course 2 years ago and had the excact same argument with the teacher who is a standards board member.
also, when you say cab/chassis, are you sure it means all cars with a separate chassis like for instance a HQ ? or cab chassis as in UTE/trayback lingo cab/chassis, because utes are classed as cab/chassis.
A vehicle with a seperate chassis. If the tank is mounted to the chassis then it must be flexible line the whole way, you might get away with it if the tank is mounted inside the cabin but my interpretation of the rules it thats its not on.
so you are a licenced installer, but you cannot certify?
I have the liscense but dont work in an accredited workshop that can certify LPG, its kinda like having a drivers liscense and no car.
i have had certified MANY cars over the years all with copper pipe, this news is new to me?
I was told copper pipe on a vehicle with a seperate chassis is a no go, the rules tell me so as well. So i dont know, being an australian standard i dont think this rule would differ from state to state.
Jes
Like i said, i had this very same argument with the instructor who virtually writes the standard. Everything like coiling the pipe, flexible pipe fitted to the rigid copper by means of a gas fitting. Everything i suggested he said was illegal. So im just going with him.
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 3:37 pm
by RaginRover
This comes up a bit - I have never had a problem getting a car approved
with the copper line running from tank to front - both rangies, both chassis body rigs.
I don't know what else to say - I guess it is up to the person who approves it
Tom
Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 6:02 pm
by shakes
I'd still run in flex in a car that see's any offroad... copper goes brittle with vibrations and will eventually crack
Simon
Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 7:42 am
by jessie928
i had copper in my first GQ shorty that i put about half a million k's on never had an issue on road, off road, and in the air
The copper cant move if you attach it to the body properly. All you have to compensate for on the Patrols is the tank is mounted to the chassis, and you need 2 feet of flex at the rear.
Each to their own!
Jes
Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 10:29 am
by Loanrangie
Go with the flex line so much easier to route , i would not use copper in a 4by no matter how safe its supposed to be - rocks and branches will crush or puncture copper pipe.