Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi there what im am after is some tips or tricks on replacing the thrust
bearing ? And do you recommend a bearing from mitsubishi or 1 from autopro etc etc.........?

If the bearing has thrush you could try treating it rather than replacing it.

PS what's the deal with the name change ? You not an NJ anymore ?

No, same 4by - just running into too many NJs these days. So I got real creative with a new name.

Scott

Dash007 wrote:Hi there what im am after is some tips or tricks on replacing the thrust
bearing ? And do you recommend a bearing from mitsubishi or 1 from autopro etc etc.........?

Lets start with wat model it is with wat motor?

If its a 3.5NJ or later -

Prolly no huge advantage to going genuine - price them and see, in saying that, you dont wanna be doin this again in 12months. You can do the bearing without dropping out the box, it slides back far enough. How old is your clutch? Its prolly worth considering replacing it cas its a fairly decent job to only have to do in the near future... again. When i removed my box, my biggest problems were getting the exhaust nuts and bolts off and working out how to actually separate it from the engine. You may be able to use some webbing inbetween the two torsion bars to slide it back on, or make up a bracket for a jack which was the easier option for me.

As for me stuggling to get the two to separate, the pressure plate bolts need to be removed through an inspection hole in the bottom of the bellhousing.

It's a 1994 3.0 LWB
Thanks for that. It will be sweet if the box can stay in make my weekend alot easyer .The clutch is only 50/60 k's old so i'm thinking it should be OK.
Are there any seals I should replace

Whats wrong with the thrust bearing ?
These boxes do make a lot of noise idling in nuetral referred to as "roll over noise" depressing the clutch will silence it.
The noise is generated by the input shaft bearing and is a low rumble this is normal, when it starts to rattle thats when it's getting bad.
The gearbox will slide back at least 6" allowing access to the thrust bearing, clutch and pressure plate.
If you had the clutch done recently didn't they replace the thrust bearing ? Usually it comes with the clutch kit.

OK, Clutch dies - Flywheel off and machined, rear main seal replaced, inspect spiggot bearing but for the sake of a few buks replace, get clutch kit which comes with pressure plate, clutch plated and thrust bearing. Your question is now, how far you want to 'patch' it up, most likely again???

I think you'd be mad to NOT replace your rear main seal, and have a feel of spigot.

BUT - as bitsamissin said, your sure its ur thrust bearing?? Only way i can think of to check is jack the rear up and whilst in gear engage and release the clutch, see if the noise comes and goes. In the V5M31 the design of the box was changed to eliminate the 'neutral chatter'. Very common on alot of gear box's and progressively gets worse with time.

Thanks for the replys guys. The noise is at it's loudest when I first start the car-ie; when the engine is cold. As the car warms up the noise dissapates. It has always had a 'bit of noise' as you say but now it's a real squeal which made me think there is a problem there.

Is the noise there when the clutch pedal is depressed or released? If it's there with the pedal depressed then it is more likely to be the release bearing ( when it is pushing the pressure plate) however if it's there when the clutch pedal is released or when driving the it's more likely to be the gearbox bearings!

alright, just having a read,

had this slight rattle lately, firstly thought it was just the fuel filter rattling round loose,

and then after about a week, figured out as it got worse that it only occurs when the car is in gear and driving, never occurs when the car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed,

its gotten to the point where it sounds like a spray can,

how quick should i get it done??? replace the clutch as well??? anything else to replace??? should i give this one a go, or hand it over to the mechanic???

would be awesome if someone could help, cos its very annoying and doesnt sound real good

dean

klrevo wrote:alright, just having a read,

had this slight rattle lately, firstly thought it was just the fuel filter rattling round loose,

and then after about a week, figured out as it got worse that it only occurs when the car is in gear and driving, never occurs when the car is in neutral or the clutch is depressed,

its gotten to the point where it sounds like a spray can,

how quick should i get it done??? replace the clutch as well??? anything else to replace??? should i give this one a go, or hand it over to the mechanic???

would be awesome if someone could help, cos its very annoying and doesnt sound real good

dean

The thrust bearing (and spigot, too) only spins when the clutch is depressed, so based on your description that's not likely to be the problem. I'd say it's further inside the box (not on the input shaft) and based on the rate of worsening, I'd say you need it looked at sooner rather than later.

Gearbox and transfer need to come out together, and they're a heavy combination (OK, you can separate the transfer first if you're really keen.) I got turned away by one mechanic because he didn't have the right equipment to do it, so it's not something to be undertaken lightly.

Good luck,

Scott

thanks scott,

hmmm im not sure hey, guess im off to the mechanic, might ask the guy round the corner for a second opinion, dad rekons its probably yeh the thrust bearing/race, so i dunno, my mech is good to me, really good, but i dont really have the cash at the moment

hmm, maybe sort that out and a new clutch at the same time, might as well do it all once then if its coming out, any other suggestions??? iv gotta get this fixed and its something around the gearbox/clutch region, anythign else i should think about replacing?

dean

Have said this before - but have you had a look at the shroud on the extension housing where the rear t/shaft enters the g/box. Mine used to work itself loose and rattle like a pig only under load or under braking.

Cheap to fix too

rightio thanks blair, will have to have a look

dean