Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have recently had my clutch and flywheel changed on my disco 2 td5 by a rover "specialist"
he claims to be a specialist but has never done a clutch on a rover before as he says they are quite rare... then when i get my car back he proceeds to tell me that he put the clutch in backwards and had to take it all apart again...

anyway aside from that, the clutch is now changed.
gearing down is difficult going to 2nd from 3rd. but drives better than what it used to.
when i pulled out of the mechanics, 3 beeps and 3 lights came on.
ABS, downhill assist and traction controll. i stuck it in reverse and told him, he said just turn the car off and on and it will be fine.
I did and the lights went away.

week later, had to break suddenly but not too sudden to kick in abs, and same problem again. So i turned it off and on, lights went away.

this maybe happened 3-4 times, however yesterday when it happened the lights stayed on. i have turned it on and off many times and they donot go off.
i have tested all of these things, and none are working, i have no TC no DA or ABS.

I am not that savvy when it comes to rovers, i want to take it back to the mechanic and tell him he caused the problem but i dont know if it is somehow connected to a clutch change.

what do you guys think?

well, my first question is how the hell can you put the clutch in backwards, when one side of the friction plate is stamped 'engine side' and the other is stamped 'gearbox side'?

But as far as your warning lights go, from what i can remember, there is nothing on the gearbox/transfer case which feeds information to the SLABS unit (which controls ABS, Air suspension (if fitted), and traction control/descent control. Nor can I think of anything around the back of the engine which has anything to do with it.

The traction control is a reactive system, from memory, which uses the ABS system to retard wheelspin, and I would imagine Hill Descent is the same. So, the problem is most likely to lie within the abs system - common on Series 2s are the following:

wheel speed sensors reading faulty - can often be caused just by undersize discs, otherwise a sensor or the wiring is faulty.

Modulator shuttle valves can become faulty - this used to be horrendously expensive, as the fix was a new modulator, but I believe the shuttle valves are now available as a seperate part, which reduces the cost somewhat, although its still a modulator out fix (the valve assembly is underneath).

Considering that you have TC and HD lights on also, I'd take a stab at the modulator being the fault, but best thing is to get someone to put the scantool on it.

The reason why the lights are now on, is because the fault has been upgraded in the computer from an intermittant fault to an active fault, due to the number of times it has happened.

If I were you though, I would NOT be taking the car back to someone who is incapable of reading the printed directions which were in front of his face when he was putting the clutch plate in position, and who claims clutches are rare to do on a rover - they occur as much as any other car. Take it somewhere decent, make them well aware of the fact that it stopped working after the clutch was done, and if the fault turns out to have been caused by his work, tell them to take photos, keep the evidence and send him the bill.

Just maybe bad timing/karma,
but you may just have a faulty ABS pump relay, or fuse.

Had a faulty relay in my Defender Extreme once, where ABS and TC lights stayed on.
Took LR service a while to figure it out, and relay is priced accordingly!

Can you hear the ABS pump pressurize when you first turn the key 'ON'?
If you're not sure the pump pressurized, try this.
With the key OFF, pump your brakes a few times, then hold brake pedal pressure while turning the key to the ON position,
this can sometimes make the ABS pump activate to pressurize the system.

Just sounds like a bad sensor..... pretty common on early D2's tell the mech it was attaced to the clutch......he wont know the difference

U might want to tell him he has to take a wheel off the get to the sensors and there a 4 of them bwhahahahah

thanks for the replies guys.
Sounds like i might need to explain to the mechanic where the wheels are lol.

but i will have a look at the fuses then source some rotors and pads and change them see if it makes the lights go away.
I hope it isnt the modulator as i just spent 3k changing the clutch.

also who would have a scantool?
any mechanic or should i stick to LR specialists?
obviously staying away from the one mentioned in my first post