Outer Limits 4x4 Board

yes i searched, couldnt find a relavant thread...

best oil to use in the swivel hubs on an 83 rangey??

(on a side note, maybe list all oils for different boxes/diffs/motors to stick in the bible to stop schmuks like me without a manual asking this question)

Simon

I just use what ever oil I use in the Diffs. SOmething heavy so it doesnt leak.

[quote="shakes"]yes i searched, couldnt find a relavant thread...

best oil to use in the swivel hubs on an 83 rangey??

In the manual it lists hypoid gear oil, SAE 90EP, a whole 250mls
Same as the diffs and transfer

Hmmmm, I did not think you should put diff oil in the transfer case. I would use Gearbox oil in the transfer.

diff oil is transfer case oil and swivel oil is the same thing

FYI -
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... swivel+oil

swivel grease..dont leak at all then..all rangie dealer types sell it here..must be available where you are..

I thought we had been through all this before and decided swivel grease was not good for Rangie Swivels. (maybe it was another forum)

The oils splashes around in the swivel and coats everything, while the grease does not reach the top bearing.......or something like that.

Yeah was on AULRO a while ago.
One shot greese (LR Brand) when it gets hot it's almost a liquid..... the outcome was use a bit of both got the info from Mechs and comp guys.

Mick

zen wrote:swivel grease..dont leak at all then..all rangie dealer types sell it here..must be available where you are..

Grease in swivels is BAD!!!

I recently helped a mate with a 1997 90 convert from grease to oil - lots of nice surface rust on all the bits inside due to water ingress. The late model swivels have no drain plug - so you cannot remove water once it gets in there!!!

So you have:
Grease which lubricates poorly compared to 80W90
Seals which can let heaps of water in but not let grease out
No way to know when water is in there
No way to get the water or grease out (short of pulling the wiper seal).

No thanks.

damn logic

Er ,
1 To drain the grease you add some ATF and drive around the block.
Easy eh??
2Grease floats on water.
You are supposed to CHECK for water by opening the drain (if you have one) after wading. If water flows out ( or grey grease) you have zee problem, same with oil. Water can still run in even if oil cannot run out. you would have exactly the same problem with oil.
Not having a drain plug is a separate issue. the effects are the same whether oil or grease. Or how is it different?? The first thing I would do is add a drain plug , whether grease or oil.

3 the grease is very thin and after pulling apart my RH swivel which I had previously filled with grease I can assure you it lubricates everywhere including the top swivel bearing.

Toyota use grease, Nissan use grease, Land Rover uses grease.
I use grease .
Regards Philip A

Being the mate with the '97 D90 I feel well chuffed with the conversion.
Mainly for the easier maintenance in the future.

No more need to dismantle the whole thing to renew lubricant (oil now).
Easier,easier...

now i'm confused

oil its gunna be simply because i've got a drum of diff oil there!!

but to stir the pot, seeing as i missed out on the last round and cant find it anywhere... is there any evidence to say that grease or oil keeps everything better lubed (other than internet hearsay)

shakes wrote:(other than internet hearsay)

Internet education

Evidence...
...
...run 2 twin trucks,identical but one with oil bathered swivels,the other with grease bathered swivels,for the same amount of time,same way,same conditions,then take the bearings out and make a comparison...

This would be scientific enough to determine what is best.

wanna do it for me?

i'm strugling with coin gettin my 2 cars up and running

I fear I have less coins than you mate.
And neither I have 2 cars...

cloughy wrote:

shakes wrote:(other than internet hearsay)

Internet education

But if it's on the interweb it true my mummy told me so

Philip A wrote:Er ,
1 To drain the grease you add some ATF and drive around the block.
Easy eh??
2Grease floats on water.
You are supposed to CHECK for water by opening the drain (if you have one) after wading. If water flows out ( or grey grease) you have zee problem, same with oil. Water can still run in even if oil cannot run out. you would have exactly the same problem with oil.
Not having a drain plug is a separate issue. the effects are the same whether oil or grease. Or how is it different?? The first thing I would do is add a drain plug , whether grease or oil.

3 the grease is very thin and after pulling apart my RH swivel which I had previously filled with grease I can assure you it lubricates everywhere including the top swivel bearing.

Toyota use grease, Nissan use grease, Land Rover uses grease.
I use grease .
Regards Philip A

With oil there is no need to add anything, or drive around the block to drain it out. In Michele's D90, there was no water sitting at the bottom, and plenty of grease in the swivels, but everything had surface rust.

It is a lot more hassle (and more $$$) to change the lubricant in grease-filled swivels than oil-filled - and grease-filled swivels are more likely to ingest oil as the seals don't need to be as good to keep grease in as oil.

Oil is a better lubricant than grease - that is why grease is only used in applications where it would be difficult to keep oil in the right place. The lower viscosity of oil means it can penetrate further into bearings and bushes, and that the moving parts have less resistance to motion.

Nissan, Toyota, and newer LR models (grease filled), wear out CVs and CV bushings faster than land rover with oil-filled CVs. A mate at a LR/toyota/nissan parts place told me that they sell heaps of bronze bushes for toyota CVs, but almost no LR ones (usually only when someone breaks a CV and minces it). Also, my 110 has 300000km on the clock, with still the original CVs - which have very litte wear (sample size of one but anyway).

To each their own but I will never run grease in my swivels.

Mal Story also recommends oil-lubed swivels and bearings, and he has a lot of mechanical knowledge and has been repairing and upgrading land rovers for years.

I was told to use morey's Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer, since i last changed my swivel seal and bearings. its been a good 60k and no leak!

only problem is it cost about $12 a side....

Dont know whether or not this helps. I'm not to sure what sort of grease you blokes are talking about.
But I changed my hubs to CV grease with molybd......molyibd..... stuff it really black sticky CV grease, added a grease nipple to the bottom drain plug and give it a squirt from time to time.

Pulled it off some time ago, no water and everything is still nicely coated. Mind you that particular CV grease sticks like shit to a blanket.

Was recommended to me by rover mechanic.

Woombye wrote:Dont know whether or not this helps. I'm not to sure what sort of grease you blokes are talking about.
But I changed my hubs to CV grease with molybd......molyibd..... stuff it really black sticky CV grease, added a grease nipple to the bottom drain plug and give it a squirt from time to time.

Pulled it off some time ago, no water and everything is still nicely coated. Mind you that particular CV grease sticks like shit to a blanket.

Was recommended to me by rover mechanic.

thats fine for getting it in but u have to strip the whole down to clean it out :(