Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Can anyoe help me, i have air available at rear but does not seem to engage. Any suggestions, how is the vacuum set up removed?

Thanks

kbhallinan wrote:Can anyoe help me, i have air available at rear but does not seem to engage. Any suggestions, how is the vacuum set up removed?

Thanks

not making a whole lot of sense there mate, you have air available at rear... how is that when it a vacuum locker? maybe rephrase your questions with more details.

marin

Tru, vac is more important to a vac locker than preasure is.

Do you mean you have air at the diff as in air is being sucked through the tubes?

There are 2 tubes at the diff, when the locker is switched off one should be sucking and the other shouldnt do anything.

When reversed the diff "should" engage.

The previous owner of my car setup 2 lines with irragtion hose valves to switch one hose off and one on when he wanted the locker to engage.

Sorry guys a little new to the game dont really know what i am talking about. What i have is a 1988 Patrol with the factory diff locker installed, it seems to all work fine in the off position there is suction from one of the lines in the on position air is sucked from the other line. So every thing seems ok until it enters the rear diff, when all is connected i turn the switch to ON and nothing happens no indication and it seems like the locker does not engage either. Can anyone help with the operation of the diff locker as all seems fine until it enters the diff.

Hope this is a little clearer thanks for the help anyway

most have a light on the dash to indicate if it is engaged or not, this could be broken, wires broken or disconeected etc, jack the rear of the car up both sides and tun the locker on, you will hear a click as is engages, but turn the rear wheels, if the locke is engaged both wheel s will spin in the same direction, if not the lcoek is not working, if there is vacuum present from both hoses ie one oin the on position and one in the off position then you either have aproblem with the actuator or the locker is fubar

if there is a vacuum problem check the solanoid, if this is stuffed(common prob) you can either replace with OE of get a mag double solanoid and hook up with the lines in a 1 positon off one in on and the vac supply into the exaust port of the valve. wire it up to your switch or a new two way switch or you can wire it up on a on/off witch with an always on relay

clear as mud huh

post up if you are confused or get stuck

these factory lockers can sometimes take a bit of effort to engage, as i have been told they old have 4 engagement point, as opposed to an arb which is heaps of points all the way around. I find that sometimes it takes a bit of full lock to lock forwards and sometimes reverse (if its being stubborn) to get it to engage. If on loose surface, i little dump of the clutch can get it to engage also, but not as recomended as just side to side swerving. unlock is generally just a matter of backing off the accelerator a bit after unlocking the diff for it to disengage, sometimes a quick swerve to 1 side will also help.

need to know more? have a search for factory diff lock in the nissan section, there is a fair amount of info about probs and solutions regarding them.

marin

a mate had one off these in his gq and he always had to reverse about 1m or 2 then drive forward to get it engaged

Like Tiny stated ,but you only need one rear wheel lifted. Put brick behind front wheel,take hand brake off and heres the big one, you need to have your car running! Theres no need to have it in 4wd. Turn your DL switch on. Than simply rotate your lifted tyre to it locks in and wheel stops, light should be on!! Now repeat process to dis-enage locker! Light should go off! Hope that clarifies things for ya mate!

Thanks all for the info, apprechiated, i will hopefully get some time this weekend to have a play

Cheers guys