Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Here is a diagram of the battery setup I'm thinking of. I have a redarc isolator and 120ah AGM which will live in the cabin. Cable will be whatever huge stuff my sparky mates nicked from work for me today



What I would like though is to make it completely portable so I can run the fridge and some lights away from the car sometimes

So I was thinking some anderson plugs in the location shown would allow quick disconnection and the battery could live in a large marine box with carry handles I could cut up the box as well and add a jaycar monitor with volts and fridge temp and some extra outlets

Anyone like to poke holes in my idea Or make suggestions for other useful stuff I should/ could put in

Cheers

I hope that no-one pokes any holes in your idea.
This is exactly what I have just finished doing in my ute.

Cheers,
Brett

wosat wrote:I hope that no-one pokes any holes in your idea.
This is exactly what I have just finished doing in my ute.

Cheers,
Brett

sweet can you give me some details champ

like what battery box you used, where you put the anderson plugs...... whatever you can tell me

I reckon you may need to up your anderson plug size from 50A.

Bad JuJu wrote:I reckon you may need to up your anderson plug size from 50A.

Yeah I thought someone might say that and I tend to agree. 50 amp was the advice I'd had...................

Next size up I've seen is 175amp of well overkill is good there I suppose

You could use the Anderson plug on the battery side to connect back to an inverter also fitted with a mating Anderson Plug on the 12v in if you wanted while this kit was out of the vehicle.

-Mick- wrote: Next size up I've seen is 175amp of well overkill is good there I suppose

They are all the same price (from the same vendor) on ebay regardless of size usually.

Bad JuJu wrote:

-Mick- wrote: Next size up I've seen is 175amp of well overkill is good there I suppose

They are all the same price from ebay regardless of size.

I know not to worried about the price

I was a bit concerned that the 175amp rating might be a pie in the sky number though...... like they'll handle that for a microsecond before they go supernova A bit like RMS and peak power ratings you know.

Is the 175 amp rating for real

Check it out http://www.andersonpower.com/products/mp/sbe.html its for real

yes

Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)

FAWK there is 700AMP jobbies too

cool thanks

gotta wait and see what size cable my mates borrowed for me from work before I buy anderson plugs.... be no good if the cable doesn't fit in the plugs hey

But I'll take your advice and up the amps on the connectors......... cheers

Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)

If on the vehicle, the + wire rubs through ... A fuse at both ends is a good Idea. Fire is BAD

Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)

I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it

Fawk Fuses, you can get a manually resetable 100A @ 12v circuit braker, about $25.

Look

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100A-12V-High-Cu ... dZViewItem

Bad JuJu wrote:Fawk Fuses, you can get a manually resetable 100A @ 12v circuit braker, about $25.

that's the kind of idea I'm after..... just an auto parts shop ie local autobarn would sell them

that way I can just go on the w'end rather than rush around in the arvos

-Mick- wrote:

Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)

I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it

100amp is a pretty big fuse, now go and look on your battery and see how many cold cranking amps (CCA) it is rated at (anywhere 600plus I imagine!)

I dont know exactly how many amps it takes to start a car engine but I dont reckon your 100amp fuse would hold up real well.

Like wise for winching (if you have one). Winches can draw up to 500amps, if you have dual batteries, some of that is gonna be coming from your 2nd battery, although not for long I reckon with a 100amp fuse!!

Forget the fuses and think very carefully about the positioning of the anderson plugs and also the cable routing (should be conduited on the +ve lead at least)

From the bay ... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100A-12V-High-Cu ... dZViewItem

Bad JuJu wrote:From the bay ... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100A-12V-High-Cu ... dZViewItem

ebay.... is there anything it can't do

Thanks BadJuJu you've been a real help here

Cossie wrote:

-Mick- wrote:

Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)

I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it

100amp is a pretty big fuse, now go and look on your battery and see how many cold cranking amps (CCA) it is rated at (anywhere 600plus I imagine!)

I dont know exactly how many amps it takes to start a car engine but I dont reckon your 100amp fuse would hold up real well.

Like wise for winching (if you have one). Winches can draw up to 500amps, if you have dual batteries, some of that is gonna be coming from your 2nd battery, although not for long I reckon with a 100amp fuse!!

Forget the fuses and think very carefully about the positioning of the anderson plugs and also the cable routing (should be conduited on the +ve lead at least)

I get your point Cossie, but I dont think winching or engine cranking was mentioned... Plus he could unhook and use jumper cables from his "mobile" battery

it wasn't and it won't be.

Had my fun with the real hard stuff more into touring around these days.... don't need a winch

Bad JuJu wrote:

Cossie wrote:

-Mick- wrote:

Cossie wrote:Just a point but why do you feel the need to run a fuse in it? And more to the point, where are you gonna get a big enough fuse that wont blow if your vehicle has to use the 2nd battery to start the engine (ie if you flatten the main)

I'm no electrics whiz but I'm pretty sure a fuse is a good idea They're called maxi fuses and I'll be getting a 100 amp one. They're friggin huge. Google it

100amp is a pretty big fuse, now go and look on your battery and see how many cold cranking amps (CCA) it is rated at (anywhere 600plus I imagine!)

I dont know exactly how many amps it takes to start a car engine but I dont reckon your 100amp fuse would hold up real well.

Like wise for winching (if you have one). Winches can draw up to 500amps, if you have dual batteries, some of that is gonna be coming from your 2nd battery, although not for long I reckon with a 100amp fuse!!

Forget the fuses and think very carefully about the positioning of the anderson plugs and also the cable routing (should be conduited on the +ve lead at least)

I get your point Cossie, but I dont think winching was mentioned

OK, forget winching, but I fail to see the point in a dual battery system that cant start the engine if you flatten the main battery.

Just found this:

During the winter when the oil is thick and parts are tight, it requires a lot of current from the battery to turn over the engine. Some engines require as much as 600 amps of current to turn over the engine

Still keen on the 100amp fuse?


also a useful site for battery info: http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html#4

You could also get one of the better quality portable powerstation thingies.... and add a anderson plug to charge it from the vehicle...

Cossie

Generally, a second battery system is installed to protect the cranking battery - the idea is to discharge the second battery, and leave the cranking battery in good shape. I believe this is what Mick's doing.

Scott

Here is the Opposite Lock product - along the same idea as what you are looking at:

http://www.oppositelock.com.au/redesign ... emID=CMPP1









Priced it the other day for a mate - about $700 exc. battery!

if I have to start the vehicle I'll take the 2nd out and jump off it......... then I'll put it back in..................... simple enough and I still have the dual battery setup protected with fuses in case it shorts which protects many hundreds of dollars worth of batteries and fridge. I simply wouldn't run a dual setup without a fuse.....................

Cossie how about telling us how you would set things up if you disagree..... just syaing we're wrong doesn't really lead to useful debate

JuJu I guess I'm setting up my own power pack of sorts. The retail ones come with crap amp hour/ capacities and thin wiring for big $$$. Even the 600 dollar or so thumpers are only 80ah or something

jesus I need tro type faster I can't keep up with this!!!!!!!!! Scott hit it on the head but

gu4800 wrote:Here is the Opposite Lock product - along the same idea as what you are looking at:

http://www.oppositelock.com.au/redesign ... emID=CMPP1









Priced it the other day for a mate - about $700 exc. battery!

Wonder how many they sell ....

gu4800 wrote:Here is the Opposite Lock product - along the same idea as what you are looking at:

http://www.oppositelock.com.au/redesign ... emID=CMPP1

gu4800 I guess I'm making my own one of these with decent wiring and real usable capacity instead of the comprimised ones that sell for big $$$

That one actually looks good but nearly 1k with a decent battery fark that!!! My setup will cost 400 tops!!! They're a good idea these power packs for people like me without space in the engine bay for a 2nd battery.

I bet they sell well despite their crazy price..............