Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am having vibration trouble in the rear of my zuk.

I currently have a hilux rear, that points up towards the xfer case. with a double cardian joint at the box end.

the vibes are bad from 10 - 30 kph

I have talked to various peoples on this issue and read an interesting article explaining uni joints and drive shafts!

anyways, my plan is to realign the diff centre with the xfer box so the shaft is straight.

i do realise that it is possible to try to fix this by having my flanges equal angles to each other, but the double cardian joint changes these angles.

i want to eliminate the sideways stuff.


so in my question, from others experience.

would I be best to use a bundy diff, as I can keep same ratios and only change one diff. I have 5.29's
and I would have to buy a bundy diff. (check wanted)

or I have a set of mq diffs, with 4.6's in them.
they would not be very hard to put under.

and also what are your opinions on the standard strength difference.

and im not concidering after market cv's as I have a missus now!!


enjoy ashley

Im a little ignorant of these things but whats the offset on:
Lux Diff
MQ Diff
Bundy Diff
LC 60 Diff (if different to a Lux)

compared to a Std Zook diff.

Bad JuJu wrote:Im a little ignorant of these things but whats the offset on:
Lux Diff
MQ Diff
Bundy Diff
LC 60 Diff (if different to a Lux)

compared to a Std Zook diff.

Lux diff, centred housing
MQ diff, offset right housing
Bundera diff, like a lux diff with offset housing to right, and coil setup on it
LC60's offset to right. Beefier than lux too. and the only full floating rear in this comparison too.

Layto....

Bundy would be the easiest.

germo wrote:I am having vibration trouble in the rear of my zuk.

I currently have a hilux rear, that points up towards the xfer case. with a double cardian joint at the box end.

the vibes are bad from 10 - 30 kph

I have talked to various peoples on this issue and read an interesting article explaining uni joints and drive shafts!

anyways, my plan is to realign the diff centre with the xfer box so the shaft is straight.

i do realise that it is possible to try to fix this by having my flanges equal angles to each other, but the double cardian joint changes these angles.

i want to eliminate the sideways stuff.


so in my question, from others experience.

would I be best to use a bundy diff, as I can keep same ratios and only change one diff. I have 5.29's
and I would have to buy a bundy diff. (check wanted)

or I have a set of mq diffs, with 4.6's in them.
they would not be very hard to put under.

and also what are your opinions on the standard strength difference.

and im not concidering after market cv's as I have a missus now!!


enjoy ashley

just a q for you... how have you centered the dc lux shaft to the sierra rear t-case output flange.

i redrilled mine and shaved the locator off then just used the bolts to centre it.
i had the same prob. then i machined the lux dc to accept a locator ring and problems were fixed. i have no vibration at any speed now. it also has something to do with the length of the rear too but its only a small thing compared to the centering of the shaft.

the xfer has a machined adapter which bolts to the flange,
the dc then bolts to the adapter which has threaded holes and the locator is machined in the middle

so you have a crooked shaft with no vibes. what are you flange angle at and do you still run a dc joint?

and what length is you shaft?

I think I should get the shaft built properly and balanced, then maybe have another go at the setup I am running!

thanks ashley

germo wrote:the xfer has a machined adapter which bolts to the flange,
the dc then bolts to the adapter which has threaded holes and the locator is machined in the middle

so you have a crooked shaft with no vibes. what are you flange angle at and do you still run a dc joint?

and what length is you shaft?

I think I should get the shaft built properly and balanced, then maybe have another go at the setup I am running!

thanks ashley

just run standard unis

u will neva get rid of the vibs with a dc unless u got more wheelbase

extend you wheel base and get a new drive shaft made with out the double carden.

germo wrote:the xfer has a machined adapter which bolts to the flange,
the dc then bolts to the adapter which has threaded holes and the locator is machined in the middle

so you have a crooked shaft with no vibes. what are you flange angle at and do you still run a dc joint?

and what length is you shaft?

I think I should get the shaft built properly and balanced, then maybe have another go at the setup I am running!

thanks ashley

my flange angles are almost spot on due to the length and positioning of the rear diff..

i think the shaft measures around the 1200mm.. but will measure it friday to make sure. my rear diff is at the very end of my chassis.

i dont see why many people do not like the dc joint.. i think they work great if you take the time to get it right and not just bung it in there and expect it to fix problems.

if the diff pumkin is offset from the tcase out put you simply cant get it right with a DC joint at the tcase end... you can corect the vertical alignment but you cant exactly bend the diff hirozontally to point to the tcase.

Obviously with a really long drive shaft the angles would be minimised along with the vibrations.

i had a hilux rear diff with terrible vibrations, running only 2 unis. I tried a CV to DC tailshaft, the CV died eventually (9 months), & their was still some vibrations. i ended up putting in a bundy rear, now with only the DC at the Xfer & a uni on the diff. Absolutely no vibrations now..

Also my rear diff is only slightly back from standard.

readin this has me all worried now. my rear output is offset, with a centre'd diff. my tailshaft is 970mm long with 2 uni's (properly built an balanced)....think i'll have drama's?

thanks guys,
I might look into a new shaft without the dc joint!

im not really that enthusiastic about lengthening the wheelbase, no reason other than the work involved and cost.

enjoy ashley

I used an adapter on the transfer and a stock length hilux DC shaft. I haven't had any vibes, at any speed, but then again mine doesn't see many road miles or high speed work. I'll have to have a look at how i set up the angles because i can't remember right now.

My rear shaft is 875 because im running a dunnydore v6 and auto with suzi trans case and hilux diffs .Rear shaft is double cardon at trans end bolted to adaptor plate on case .My diff is rotated to 15 degrees above horizontal to match the trans angle never had any vibe issues .

I am having vibration trouble in the rear of my zuk.

I currently have a hilux rear, that points up towards the xfer case. with a double cardian joint at the box end.

the vibes are bad from 10 - 30 kph

this may sound stupid, but my brother had a similar prob....ended up being a busted gearbox mount and for some stupid reason we over looked it for a few days!

if ur car is a dailydriver and ur diff centre is to the left or right of ur transfer like mentione earlier u will have vibes and u wont get rid of them no matter ow good ur shaft is balanced.

my vibes were from gearbox to transfer missalignment,after i fixed that up i can't notice any driveline vibes,maybe because of the tyres( jt2's ) but was still concerned about the compound angles
i have lux diffs pushed back as far as possible without moving the fuel tank.

the currrent job is fitting as hilux box & transfer case (stronger & no more compound angles )
its about the same as cost of replacing the current broken toyota t50,just not easy to get an adapter

bazooked wrote:if ur car is a dailydriver and ur diff centre is to the left or right of ur transfer like mentione earlier u will have vibes and u wont get rid of them no matter ow good ur shaft is balanced.

definatly not true

mine has not a single vib sierra tcase to centered lux diff

single unis

Remember that uni joints, when not perfectly straight, actually spin in phases, that is they will accelerate and decellerate slightly during each rotation. When you have two uni's in the shaft that are not straight, and correctly aligned they will cancel out each others accel and decel. As soon as one uni is straight and the other isnt, or you fit a DC joint (2 uni's at the one joint) and run these off angle, vibration from the accel and decel in the uni's will be apparent. This can explain why a lot of DC shafts get vibes, where as Shafts like Tims are okay despite the offcentred rear shaft angle. Same thing applys to CV shafts with uni at one end.
Layto....