Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey does anyone have any comments on the front 5links?

I would love to see some pictures of how it all works and what needs to be done. Does it utilise the original front radius arms at all???

cheers people

I would have to check with Chester but i think mine is the ONLY Rangie with a Calbah front end.

It runs two arms each side instead of the Standard Radius arms.
It also has adjustable caster.

With this kit i can disslocate 20" front springs with 14" travel shockies.

what was that saying? "this thread is useless without pics?" yeah...that! cough them out tufrr!

here you go
notice the brake lines.... they are 4" longer than standard.

OK, here come the questions:

1. How much does it cost?
2. Is it bolt-on or weld on?
3. Does it have ANY negatives onroad at high-speed?

They are a full weld in kit and handle well on road.

I think he sells the kits for around $2500 installed

but it would be best to contact Chester at Calbah directly to talk price.

http://www.calbah.com/calbah.htm

TUFFRR - I like the idea of the bolt on kits personally, I am gonna try obtain a second hand SG 3link or brand new depending on cost. But if all that fails I might have to accept you proposal

I typed this in another post but does anyone know the OZ distributer for SG 3link (if there is one) or even better does anyone have one second they might want to sell me????

umm.... yeah right

i think rovacraft in WA stock some $G stuff..... but you will not find one second hand

its really not high tech stuff to make when you look at the $G site
i hate to push anyone but bill at offroad rover can will and does sell all the parts with all the info.
ask him to tell about the differences between the centre link being mounted high or low on the diff housing

The centre link is better on the lower part of the diff housing as its clears the engine more on full up travel. And having the two radius arms up top also puts less strain on the radius arm joints.

I really do like the SG kit but like everyone seems to say its not cheap stuff.
Bill mentioned that he mounts the centre link closer to the passenger side (so as to clear the engine sump) He also noted that he does not manufacture (sell) his 3 link setup, but he was quiet happy to tell me how it all worked and is sending me some pics.

I dont know about you guys but I still want the SG 3 Link

i would 5-link it with calbah

it's engineerable and they build good stuff

Well i am tossing up between the two, I just like the SG 3 link and so far it probably gonna cost me about 1000 gold (coloured) coins.

I am waiting on a response from Dave Rowland and once i recieve that I will no what I wanna do (i hope).

TUFRR wrote:here you go
notice the brake lines.... they are 4" longer than standard.

me thinks they need to be longer..

i also think they need to be longer
i also note you have white green springs in the front... those are 18" 270lb.... crikey... that must be pretty stiff

The springs seem quite soft and i get a fair amount of body roll.

The springs were supplied and fitted by Calbah and i don't know the specs.
And they measured closer to 19 1/2" tall

would it be fair to say that with the 5 link there is so little bind that the springs need to be firmer to control body roll

Just for interests sake here are pics of the 3link by way of comparison... I believe this is the $G kit minus the cross member which is homebuilt....

Bodge - are those photos the underneath of the silver RR ute that was in the NZ challenge??

If so, you said that it struggled a bit in that event because of its setup not being ideal for the terrain??

What happens to the steering damper aftyer you install the SG 3 link i just oticed that mine is on my rear track rod???????????

Retro fit to front.

sweeeeeeeeeeet, well i still need the SG 3link
Maybe that Silver RR ute will donate it too me.

TuffRR wrote:Bodge - are those photos the underneath of the silver RR ute that was in the NZ challenge??

If so, you said that it struggled a bit in that event because of its setup not being ideal for the terrain??

Yep thats the one. Its a well set up truck but I think he really intended it for Tuff Truck styled RC events rather than Winch Challenges. A lot of the off camber stuff threatened to put it on its side and there are a couple of classic video moments where the crew were a bit freaked by the pitch and roll...

I think it essentially about the height [COG] and the flex of that 3 link.

Don't forget it has a 4" body lift too....

Here's my feeling (for what the hell it is worth!):

If I were to go for a rock-crawler uniquely, meaning that my fastest speed would be 5km/h OFFROAD, I'd go with a 3-link.

If I were to go for an allround offroad performance truck (challenges, comps...), I'd stick to the Rover set-up, which, after all, is not really THAT bad when put to the longest shocks you can put there.

Just my feeling...

i'm with you Dino

It all depends on what sort of wheeling you will be doing.. the Rover front can be made to work reasonably well just be drilling the bushes, some decent length shocks and retained springs...

If all you want is a ramp bitch, then fair enough, go the 5 link
Look at how many Rangies have won comps in Oz and Malaysia... AFAIK they all run pretty basic setups.

hmmmmm RANGIES ARE GOOD ARNT THEY

Landy...and I agree with you for agreeing with me!

Anyways, I vouch for systems like Simon Buck's...off-the-shelf OME units for dependable, yet effective suspension. That is what I finally have. Still working on those rear shocks.

I have seen WAY too many Landies with stock articualtion in cross-axled situation (with lockers) having a see-saw effect when they lift a tire and then land dramatically on it. I am all for having all for tires on the ground through smart articulation...its far more stable...STABLE...that is what we need to go for...

And what is the longest travel shock you can run on a stock RR setup?

I'd stick with 10" fronts and 12" rears for a stock set-up.