Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Have a 2002 Jimny. Looking to fit some good A/T tyres, and potentially fit a suspension lift.

OME kit lifts 40mm. Anyone know what tyre size this permits me to fit?


(Standard size is 205/70R15 which equates to 669mm diameter. Was looking at Cooper ST tyres of which smallest is 235/75R15 = 727 diameter. Thus by my calculation 727/2 - 669/2 = 29mm radial increase vertically will fit within 40mm lift. )What about potential to rub on other areas (sides of arches, or other components) especially considering width increase to tyre from 205 to 235? Fit of spare on rear door?

Anything else to advise? Can I increase tyre size like this (should it fit) without any gearing change required?

Any other type of tyres to recommend? (Main use is bitumen, but I need a bit of mud grip in victoria trails)

Thanks,
TJ

I'm currently running the same suspension with 215's. I've found that the rear especially gets very close to the inner guard at ful articulation. You might find that the 235's will rub at full flex. If you fit a 1" or 2" body lift aswell you'd get away with it no worries. From what I can see a body lift is easy to fit. The only other drama then is having to fit extended brake lines.

Will look good though

If you fit a 2" lift you will clear the 235's. If you do get any rubbing on the wheel arch areas, you can just extend the bump stops slightly. This will limit the compression just enough to stop any damage being caused to the tyres or bodywork.

Pete

i have the same setup as gecko but with OME 10mm packers in the rear and the 50mm springs in the front and BFG A/Ts. tyres have never rubbed but with the swaybar off you will get a whole more flex at the front and the wheels will rub the guards if theyre turned slightly. have a pic of full flex no swaybar if you want to see. gearing wise i think 235's are the limit

Give us a goosie mightyjimny. I'm concidering a quick disco for the front swaybar. With my 2" lift the rear flexes beautifully. Keen to see just how much more flex can be gained with removing the front sway bar.

2 pics (hopefully the links work), with and without sway bar. different locations but both had 2 diagnally opposite wheels just off the ground.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/ ... C02166.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/ ... C02224.jpg
gecko getting rid of the swaybar also reduced that side-side body rocking motion overs bumps when trail driving. which quick release system are you looking at?

I was looking at making my own (modifying the stock one on there). Apio in japan have one that looks easy as to make. Cut it roughly in the middle, weld a sleave on one end and drill a hole through using a heavy pin to lock it for on road.

http://www.carmag.co.jp/apio/JItop.html

the front flex is mainly limited by the fact that it goes into "bind", this is caused by the bush's not being lined up on the control arms.
by removing the swaybar there is no noticable travel increase, but a remarkable reduction in rollstiffness which becommes a problem when driving steep side angles.

hwen i checked the travel on my zook this is what i found.
the zooks got 80mm lift with long rancho shocks.
when the servo lifts the car on there hoist, my springs come loose. (both front wheels are off the ground)
however, when i flex my car the springs will stay firmly in place (IE only one front wheel in the air)


Mitch

What is the easiest way of increasing front end travel Mitch? I did loosen off the control arms when I put my lift in. Thought that not doing so would be part of the reason why the front end looked like it was sagged with extra long front springs. That was before I put the bull bar on. Can it have anything to do with the shocks?

the shocks shouldn't have any thing to do with the sagging appearence.
sounds like you've got soft front springs. i've had to use different front to rear springs to level out mine after the winch bar went on.

as for increased travel.

do you need it?,
i have found that my rollstiffness is amonst perfect for my driving style. and since locking the front diff it, now doesn't matter if i lift a front wheel in the air, i still go forward.

wheel travel is't every thing, a 4WD that "ramps" to the top, won't necessarily work well on the trail and vice versa. i think that there is too much focus on getting super long travel suspention, as opposed to a good working set-up.


and the only way that you'll get it is by going for a custom three link set-up. $$$$$

my2c

Mitch

I was thinking that increased travel would mean better offroad stability. I know that awesome flex isn't everything, but surely it does help. Seeing that I can't afford a locker I was under the impression that reasonable flex and decent tyres would do the trick for the time being.

It's probably the reason for the initial question on this thread.

And believe me lads I'm not having a crack at anyone. I'm learning here too.

they will help.

but a detriot EZ locker was less that $700 fitted, you'll have to shop around.
and welding a diff is the cost of new oil for the diff. and replacment diff centers can be had for as little as $400.

personaly i would weld the front, if money is short, and leave the rear open. this will make a big improvement off road (because the jimny's always sit on the front more than the rear).

and won't affect you on road at all.

Mitch

Cheers chief. Some good info. I think I may have asked you at Jimnyworld, but where did you get your ezlocker from again?

i sat on the phone for half a day ringing everyone that sold lockers and ended up getting the best deal from Oppositelock in Preston VIC.
the chap in there is very helpful the part number you will need is 810A26 (without side gears)

hope this helps

Mitch

If you don't mind me asking....I suppose the ome side gears slide in easy enough. Does the whole diff need re-aligning?

if your careful when pulling the diff apart you'll have no problems getting the backlash as it was.
fitting the locker is pretty easy, looking at it now i would have done the job myself.

there is a thread on jimny.se that deals with fitting a Detroit

try this thread www.jimny.se/locker.html

Mitch

Do you remember if the drive shaft is a 26 spline? I have saved enough money now for one form Figmo, but I want to get it right the first time.

Also for anyone else...and I know it's been done to death, but would you recommend a locker in the front or in the rear first off?

gecko,

the only locker for the front of a jimny bis an ARB, so just weld it.
and spend the money on the rear.

My 2c

Mitch

PS the rear axles are 26 spline.