Page 1 of 1

starter / alternator - MQ

Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 1:39 pm
by Screwy
Will a petrol (L28) 12V alternator, and 12V starter motor, fit on a diesel motor (SD33) with a 24V running system, because i want to convert the deisel to 12V system, but can get petrol 12V bits.

?????

cheers

Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 7:05 pm
by junior
So you wanna change from 24v to 12v,the starter and alternator are the main things but then you have all the globes(lights),dash cluster,wipermotor ect.
From what ive found and been told by some of the boys on this site its not to hard to do.I have the sd 33 mq with 24v electrics also and im going to change it when i fit the v8 conversion later in the year.
Goodluck :D

Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 7:49 pm
by V8Patrol
All globes need to be replaced from headlight, taillight, indicators,parkers,Brake lights, dash lights, interior light, & any driving lights.
Also replace the wiper motor and intermittnt relay(its on the drivers side inner guard, up near the firewall)
Also replace the heater fan motor
If your running aircon it will be fine as it is.
Better tip....... get an alternator from a wrecker (off of a VN to VS Holden)thats 85amp+, get a 130 amp if your running a winch. They run an internal regulator so all you have to do is disconect the current external regulator and run a patch wire ( the patch wire lights up the "charge light" in the dash)

Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 9:00 pm
by Screwy
ok cool, i want to do the conversion, but as i said i have access to a 12V starter and alternator off of a L28 MQ motor, if im to do the conversion, will these work in the SD33???
Can i use these in teh conversion?

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 9:52 am
by pete's GQ
You can not use a petrol alternator on a sd33 as it does not have vacume pump on the back of it.
p.s the cost a fortune if you can even find one.
I have details for new ones from a manufactuer from overseas at a cheaper than new price but its still expensive.
hope that helps and good luck.
You will also have to change the fuel control soliniod to 12v.

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 10:19 am
by MQ080
What then happens to the oil pump off the original 24v alternator?

Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 2:31 pm
by Screwy
Im asking the same question as MQ080, but also, can the starter off of an L28 work on the SD33 diesel???

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:01 am
by pete's GQ
the deisel alternator armature shaft is longer and comes out the back of the alternator and the vacum pump not oil bolts on to the back of the alternator so you will have to have a alternator with the shaft out the back or you can sometimes get vacum pumps that run on the fan belt. i think the chev deisels use them ie holden suburban. if you find one that runs on fan belt you can fitt any alternator you want. Hope that helps. :lol:
not sure about the starter but the sd33 starter is pretty heavy duty and is attached to the motor not the bell housing.

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:42 am
by V8Patrol
Like I said above... get another one from a wrecker.
leave the std unit where it is ( that way everything works vac/oil pump wise)
fit up the alt you want and bingo 12 volts !!!!
my only concern would be if the 12 starter would have the grunt to crank the diesel over specially on cold mornings...

Ah stuff it all.......................... fit a 350 Chev and be done with it :finger:

Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:08 pm
by Screwy
id love to do this but the biggest problem i face is the large dollars that would have to be spent.

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 11:16 am
by Scrapper
I haven't measured them, but fairly sure the SD33 starter motor uses different space mountings (I have been known to be wrong!), so the petrol stuff won't fit. If you have no A/C, you can put a second alternator (take the guts out of the original) above the original alternator (to save engine power drain) and leave the vacuum pump on the back, that way your brakes still work well. ;) Mount a Commodore 'nator on a bracket where the A/C should go and run it from the pulleys that usually drive the A/C.

Someone was telling me the relays (horn, lights, etc) from the 24V will run on the 12V, but I will need to test this. Even things like your gauges (haven't checked to see if they are regulated - many are 10V operating voltage) may not work properly, so your engine 'never gets hot' and your fuel tank is never over half full... Again something I'll have to test. :-/

People keep saying this is an easy job, yet I don't seem to have enountered anyone who has ACTUALLY DONE IT and been able to tell me what really needs changing. Everyone seems to be doing like me and just sussing it out as we go. >_<

My only saving grace is I have a 12V SWB and a 24V LWB so I can refer to the other vehicle if I'm not sure! :D

When I get around to doing the change, I'll document it all up, with pictures where appropriate. You could be waiting a while...