Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I know that you guys have talked about this topic before and ive read as much as i could find on this forum.I own a 75 series ute and i want to fit 35" tyres, ive got a 3"lift with EFS springs ,superior extended shackles and caster wedges.

I dont know much about this moving the diff forward 30mm by redrilling the spring perch or using the Snake racing axle relocation plates.Does this affect the front drive shaft?Will i need to change diff ratios or transfer gears?

If someone could send me a actual step by step process or some info or pics it would be much appreciated cause i dont want to stuff it up.

moving the diff forward is easy as pie. i haven't had a problem with my drive shaft. i run 35 et2's with a 2" suspention lift, 30mm body and the diff moved forward the tires clear fine
you just need to unbolt the diff and redrill the locater holes in the housing pearches and bolt it back up.

Thommo 73 wrote:moving the diff forward is easy as pie. i haven't had a problem with my drive shaft. i run 35 et2's with a 2" suspention lift, 30mm body and the diff moved forward the tires clear fine
you just need to unbolt the diff and redrill the locater holes in the housing pearches and bolt it back up.

Does the 30mm spacing affect the castor angle at all?

u should'nt need 2 move the diff forward. i had extendard shackels and 2in oldman emus and fitted 35s on.... put a body lift on it... if its turbo with a 3inch exaust ya tyre might hit the exaust at full lock

Ive had people say dont do a body lift but know one can tell me why...

Did you do a bullbar lift and move the radiator?Does this affect your front drive shaft angle?

Turbo is on the list but shes done 300k id most likely blow it up.....

P.s Tuff 75 i read a post that you were building a new tray and wanted some pics for ideas.I also am in the process of building a new tray would you be able to send me some pics please?

no i haven't moved the bullbar up (yet) but it doesn't look that bad with only 30mm under the body, and the angle of the drive shaft is better.

no need for body lift because tyres fit under guard at full travel up. thay touch a little but not enough to worrie about, if so, fit rear bump stops to front, thay are a little longer. a body lift reduces you roll-over angle, our cruises have a narrow track and are tall to start with. so don't lift it if you don't have to. i had 35 kelly muds on my bj74 middy, no mud flaps, it only just touch on turning, didn't worry about fixing it. if it had factory flares and mud flaps, i think i would have to do some thing about it. also. if you lift the body, you have to lower to radiator the same amount. hope this ansers your questions, john.

oh and with the radiator i moved the fan cowling down

hi there
i have a 55mm body lift there is a bit more to it than just the cooling bits
you have some wiring , brake lines , cut the trans tunel this is so you can
get low without it coming out of gear and if you don,t lift the bar the nice
man with the ticket book asks for some cash / points .
but its all things you can do .
how do you find the efs i am looking at it to buy do u get good travel ect
have fun
hopeless
ps blue plate $60 app

i fitted 33's to my 75 troopy, and flexed her up. i think that with extended bumpstops on the front it should do ok for 35's. however i found that even 33's scrubbed the springs on full lock, and on the rear they were scrubbing the inside of the tubs, and the tube crossmember on the chassis. so a mild spacer or offset rims might be the go. I would keep the offset or spacer to as minimum as you can though coz apparently wheel bearings don't like it. i would try and steer away from body lift if it can at all be avoided on a stability basis, and because it gets quite involved when you take into account brake lines, wiring, front and rear barwork etc.

I lifted the body on my bj73 about 48 mm. I did not have to do any of the above mentioned except drop the radiator schroud, or cut the botom of it.
The front bar does need lifting, but it is not really that noticeable.

yes mate i lifted the bull bar and side rails and steps back up the only thing i had 2 do was cut the bottom half of the fan shroud. other than that its all fine. Have u takin ya front sway bar off? if u havent u will find that if u do it will make a huge difference in wheel travel. If u got a spare 1500 bucks come 2 hervey bay and get boby at ALL SET SPRINGS 2 customise ya suspension and u will have more than enough lift and the best wheel travel u could get with out using drop shackels.....

dogbreath_48 wrote:

Thommo 73 wrote:moving the diff forward is easy as pie. i haven't had a problem with my drive shaft. i run 35 et2's with a 2" suspention lift, 30mm body and the diff moved forward the tires clear fine
you just need to unbolt the diff and redrill the locater holes in the housing pearches and bolt it back up.

Does the 30mm spacing affect the castor angle at all?

Does anyone know? Sorry to be pushy, just i might be looking at doing this over the weekend.

-Stu

Not at all. The part of the spring where the perch moves to is still relatively flat and the caster should stay the same.

The front driveshaft may or may not be an issue. I haven't dropped my front diff so far as to separate the driveshaft halves, but much more spline is now visible after I moved the diff 30 mm.

Like in the other thread with an HJ60 on 35 in. tyres, the larger tyres will slow down a n.a. 2H powered ute a bit without changing gears, but a turbo or a 1HZ powered ute may be fine.

Dave

Yeah ive taken the front sway bar of when the suspension was done....

Can you move the diff say 10 or 20mm forward or is that just a waste of time?Will my castor wedges need to be modified?

i found that when i put in the extended shackles, it f*%ked my castor up and needed another alignment, and looking at the spring pack i would say that moving it forwards would probably alleviate it if anything.

i was thinking the same thing about the castor, but it would do that much i would think.

mac1cruz wrote:Yeah ive taken the front sway bar of when the suspension was done....

Can you move the diff say 10 or 20mm forward or is that just a waste of time?Will my castor wedges need to be modified?

IIRC the hole is about 10mm across, so you would have to go at least 20 i'd say.

Thanks for the advice R.E. Caster. Looks like tyres won't be coming till monday now anyway :(

Hey mac1cruz, I have a HJ75, do the body lift mate its fine, 2 inch, 6 blocks $10 each, 2 hours work just cut a large arc from the bottom of the fan shroud, dont move radiator, trim the body around the shifters about a half inch and you'll need a good offset on the rims to run 35's to avoid hitting leafs on full lock. Naturally aspir. 2h will be a bit of a slug though.
Good luck.

Thanx Jenko75 mine is the 1HZ... With the 2"body lift did you buy longer bolts or did the come as a kit?Also what size offset for the rims do you recommend?

i had a 75 ute stock as a rock and had brand new 35 mtrs on it and drove home, but to avoid scrubbing and better wheeling all i done was take all the sway bars off put 10inch extended shackles made out of 10mm thick plate, new 2 inch lift shocks and ext brake lines, steering dampner. and i was away none of this tech stuff. the only time i scrubbed was a full flex on the front-which scrubbed on the fibreglass guard but not enough to damage. thats my 2 cents. if u want some pics just pm me have heaps.

Yes mate you need to take the old ones out and take them to the bolt shop, get them all 2inch longer, high tensile of course I think for memory 2 front ones are longer than the other 4. 25-30mm offset rims or you could try spacers. Ive been told I would need a new front driveshaft if moving the front axle forward, but that was also if I was to do a shackle reversal. Yeah the 2h was no worries with body lift, yours may have some differences just chek any clips or brackets on the chassis in the engine bay holding hoses pipes etc. Cheers.

Thanx Jenko75 one more Q's Did you use a jack or lift the body yourself to fit the blocks into place?

10inch extended shackles made out of 10mm thick plate

is that a typo? what castor wedges do you run?

mac,
I'm currently running 36" et2's and found shifting the diff forward piss easy, i also have 2"extended shackles and 2" ome springs and 2" body. the old girl drives well, little bit harder to pull up but other wise fine. If you move your diff forward you will need to get a tail shaft spacer.(snake racing, $100) or the prefered have you drive shaft lenghtend, if you want ring the guys at superior engineering and they can fit a long travel slip shaft for you. you can also drill your wedges to suit the new diff position. also i see every one so far has said to cut your radiator shroud when you do the body lift, i took my old shroud in to a sheet metal shop and had them make a whole new one from alloy and it only cost me $320. looks better and engine stays cooler which is a bonus if you ever fit a turbo. my too bob

Use 2 bottle jacks on blocks or bricks with piece of timber against under-body, try one side at a time.