Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I worked hard on my zook all night fri night until 5:30 sat morn to be ready for our Motomadness shows 4wd course only to have both CVs ping in the first five minutes .
It was my first run with the front airlocker and I was stuck in the mud hole giving it shit in reverse and bang left side goes. So I get pulled out and think oh well Ill unlock that hub and continue with just drive to the front right and the rear. Get stuck on some ruts with the front right and rear left losing traction so I rock it foward and back and bang other front goes .
Are the CVs really that piss weak?
Im only running 30" MTRs. I have the front locked and will soon have the rear. I am running 4.9 trail tough gears.
Do I need these? http://www.roadlessgear.com/page/RGL/PROD/DA/CV100
They look sweet but damn expensive and will need to pull apart locker and change the side gears.
Pics from the course can be seen here (but none of the zook as it died so early) http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=66111
Paul.

i ran the standard 1ltr diffs for nearly 2 years and only broke 2 on 32s i run 6.1 rhoppers.they dont like reverse much that i can say.my front was welded theyre not too bad as long as you dont have a huge right boot.my first one broke in reverse the second one i was bound up in very lrge rock so it was more my fault i guess for persisting with something that wasnt working :oops:with the rear unlocked youll find the front end will be doing most of the hard work too, youll find it much better when you lock the rear.

As with any car that uses cv's, reverse is a huge risk. The parts all get worn and stressed in forward direction most of the time, and aggressive backing can break them easily. Like breaking metal if you bend it both ways too often.

I've busted 3CV's in 11 years. 2 of then 1.0litres and 1 1.3.
Only 1 happened going forwards, spinning and turning and got sudden traction. The others were in reverse.


christover

christover1 wrote:As with any car that uses cv's, reverse is a huge risk. The parts all get worn and stressed in forward direction most of the time, and aggressive backing can break them easily. Like breaking metal if you bend it both ways too often.

I've busted 3CV's in 11 years. 2 of then 1.0litres and 1 1.3.
Only 1 happened going forwards, spinning and turning and got sudden traction. The others were in reverse.


christover

arent 1L cv's bigger than 1.3's???

not that im aware of

Next question.
Are NT and WT CVs the same?
Or are the WT ones longer axles?
Just so I can find spares.
Paul.

the outers are the same between narrow and wide track only the axles r different lengths, also ive only ever broken 1 cv in the zook and ive ran from stock tyres to 32 simexes locked front and rear without any major dramas. im running the newfields in the front of the lwb running 33 jt2s and the work a treat!.

perhaps they were aftermarket cv's I hear that they are not much chop. sounds like driver mistreatment as much as anything.

11 years , have not done a CV yet !!! (touch wood !!!)

run 33 swampers , that bang against the springs when turning !!!

RF is noisy , but they still are hanging in there !!!

I've got 30's and havn't done a cv. Touch wood.

Have blown two in two years, unlocked front but driven on rocks mainly. on 32 swampers. They are not that bad, both times i have prob been hard on them when they broke. Genuine CV's too, though fairly old.
Layto....

moose wrote:11 years , have not done a CV yet !!! (touch wood !!!)

run 33 swampers , that bang against the springs when turning !!!

RF is noisy , but they still are hanging in there !!!

Found something for ya moose, perhaps a new avatar... Hehe!
Mike.

raqmup wrote:

moose wrote:11 years , have not done a CV yet !!! (touch wood !!!)

run 33 swampers , that bang against the springs when turning !!!

RF is noisy , but they still are hanging in there !!!

Found something for ya moose, perhaps a new avatar... Hehe!
Mike.

its funny kuz you need a tag to shoot big game in CAN and since 94ish you have to enter a draw like lotto for a moose tag

muppet_man67 wrote:perhaps they were aftermarket cv's I hear that they are not much chop. sounds like driver mistreatment as much as anything.

This could be so as i was talking to the driveshaft engineering mob the other day and were talking about the same thing. His sone breaks non-orig like paper but the originals last a while.

Nic

I broke a factory WT short side a couple of months ago, so I replaced it with a birfield, then I broke that first trip out too. Rolling 31's with gears and lockers.

I run 31s + dewse ran 33's on his fine but no lockers.

Believe most of the vic guys have 30"+ tyres + lockers and not too many problems

Nic

there are a couple of guys running 33"s and most running 31"s with 1 person on 35"s from time to time there are breakages but not to the point where people are expecting too. All the cars with larger then 31" tyres are duel locked. its something that happens and we carry spare CV's but it isnt a massive problem. There are some people in the club upgrading to trail tough CVs but this is a big investment for people with Air lockers as you will have to get rid of your front air locker and fit a rear air locker for the splines to match.

the guys in vic have the advantage of slippery conditions too and probably not as rocky as nsw from what i hear .which would make it alot easier on the front end .

muppet_man67 wrote:There are some people in the club upgrading to trail tough CVs but this is a big investment for people with Air lockers as you will have to get rid of your front air locker and fit a rear air locker for the splines to match.

Ahh negative on that
The side gears are available as a spare part and are interchangable.
So you only need to spend around about $150 (dont quote me Im not really sure).

i got a pair of side gears for about 75 bux plus a bottle of beam for fitting

Bazooked what ARB do you shop at?
Osb park?
Because you always seem to quote prices cheaper than I get.
Paul.

there you go. are the front and rear airlockers the same exept for side gears?

yep

i just happen to no 1 of the guys there who is also in quaddrive and manages the wkshop in ossie pk.

also 1L c.v's are infact smaller than the 1.3L NT & WT models

yet the 1L front axles are the same as NT 1.3L.

Some people have had success with running birfield rings pressed onto the c.v.'s to stop the outer bells streching and exploding, but the downside to them is that you need to remove the whole swivel hub assembily to install and remove rathar than just removing the stub axle and 4 bolts like normal, as the c.v. no longer fitt's thru the hole in the swivel hub due to the birfield ring.

Has any body expermented with softening the c.v's so they wear quicker but don't explode, sort of like the process used by core and haultech on toyota and nissan c.v.'s to make them stronger??

To this date i havent heard of anybody making a better c.v. at a reasonable price

you should change cvs via the swivel hub anyway. it's so much quicker, requires much simpler tools, and is more fool-proof as long as you keep your king pin bearings clean.

i wouldn't recommend a treated cv for daily driver usage. they are good for comps as they will give when the massive force is applied. but they are soft and the bell will eventually be gouged by the star. even for comp use they only last a short amount of time. you still go through them quite rapidly but they don't fail mid course. for daily use, stick with factory replacements. not too expensive and piece of piss to change when needed.

oozuk wrote:also 1L c.v's are infact smaller than the 1.3L NT & WT models

yet the 1L front axles are the same as NT 1.3L.

Some people have had success with running birfield rings pressed onto the c.v.'s to stop the outer bells streching and exploding, but the downside to them is that you need to remove the whole swivel hub assembily to install and remove rathar than just removing the stub axle and 4 bolts like normal, as the c.v. no longer fitt's thru the hole in the swivel hub due to the birfield ring.

Has any body expermented with softening the c.v's so they wear quicker but don't explode, sort of like the process used by core and haultech on toyota and nissan c.v.'s to make them stronger??

To this date i havent heard of anybody making a better c.v. at a reasonable price

the trail tough CVs wont fit in through the king pins either im told as they are significantly bigger you have to remove the knucke or at least pop the king pins (may as well take the knucke off anyhow)

N*A*M wrote:you should change cvs via the swivel hub anyway. it's so much quicker, requires much simpler tools, and is more fool-proof as long as you keep your king pin bearings clean.

i wouldn't recommend a treated cv for daily driver usage. they are good for comps as they will give when the massive force is applied. but they are soft and the bell will eventually be gouged by the star. even for comp use they only last a short amount of time. you still go through them quite rapidly but they don't fail mid course. for daily use, stick with factory replacements. not too expensive and piece of piss to change when needed.

u seen many zuks with constant hubs?

cv's dont spin in 2wd

true!

anyway, by daily usage i'm talking like not one comp every few months followed by a complete tear down and rebuild. which happens to be my current regimen. my expectation of daily drivers... regular wheeling on weekends. you will flog out the bell over a short period of time.

what about coily cv's are they the same as the older 1.3's?