Page 1 of 2
Travel of your RR shocks
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:54 pm
by GRIMACE
Hey i was just wondering if people could give me an idea of what shocks and lengths they are in travel. For Range Rover that is
Cheers
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:58 pm
by landy_man
there is a big difference between up to 10" and up to 14"..... i think you need to be more specific in your poll answers...
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 5:13 pm
by GRIMACE
yeah wel i have absolutely no idea what lengths so what do you want me to do
1"
2"
3"
4"
5"
6"
7"
8"
9"
10"
11"
12"
13"
14"
15"
16"
17"
18"
19"
20"
Its not a trick question
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 5:18 pm
by DiscoDino
Well, I have 10.5" fronts and 12.5" rears.
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 5:27 pm
by GRIMACE
what size lift springs do you have up front DiscoDino?
And how have you gone abotu correcting castor?
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 5:29 pm
by GRIMACE
What i am interested in is people runing th 14" or greater and what they have done to get the most out of them.
I was just abit bored again
so i thought i would post something
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 5:42 pm
by landy_man
no mate common travel is 10" 12" 14"
i don't think even Bilstein do anything longer than 14" travel in their 7100 and 9100 series shocks.
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 6:30 pm
by DiscoDino
I have OME 764s up front (free length of 435mm @ 220lbs), and 762 rears (free length of 435mm @ 300-340ibs - soon to be 763: 425mm @ 360lbs) with 20mm spacer. No castor correction.
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2003 11:11 pm
by Strange Rover
A 14in travel shock in the rear is about the most you can use IMO. The centre A frame ball will limit the articulation before the 14in travel shock will. Its very hard to fit 14in travel shocks under a rangie floor while maintaining stock bumpstops.
In the front the most you can get from the radius arms is about 10inches of shock travel flex. This is with either the drilled bushes or the new slotted bushes that we are making. The beauty of running 14in travel shocks in the front is that they are overkill for travel and you dont have to worry about setting them at the correct mounting heights to allow max travel.
Sam
PS We have actually done a run of 50 sets of these slotted bushes but arnt selling then yet cause we are evaluating there on road performance and our liability issues with such a suspension modification producing more body roll on road. These bushes arnt a big dollar money making product for us by any means - more of just an interest thing and if we sell them to somebody and they run off the road and hurt somebody because the car handles differently I can imagine that we could easily get our arses sued and loose much, much more that the sale of these bushes could ever produce in a life time. So ATM the risk associated with us selling these bushes isnt worth anywhere near the gains which is a big PITA. But we are working on it.
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 12:09 am
by DiscoDino
Sam, sell them to me!...I'm all the way in Lebanon and there is no legal system what so ever here, so I can't sue your arse!
NB. If you want me to try them out for you on twisty mountain roads with my truck, shoot them over, I'll even pay the shipping...
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 9:04 am
by TuffRR
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:56 am
by GRIMACE
Yeah GIVE GIVE
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 2:52 pm
by mickrangie
my travel is good fanks
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:33 pm
by GRIMACE
Bilstein have 17" travel shocks (on there web site)
Not sure if they are available to us here in Aus ? ? ?
Would be nice to get full travel outta them bastards
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:42 pm
by modman
no-one has mentioned the hinged front arm option yet,
any ideas about the extra travel and strength issues
its also a very cheap option!!!!
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 3:44 pm
by GRIMACE
tell me more about this HINGE
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 4:44 pm
by modman
basically one front arm is cut in half about 10 inchesfrom the diff mount
2 plates are welded on the piece that connects to the body
one each side so they extend about six inches foward, past the cut
place the cut off bit of arm back where it came from, sliding it between the 2 plates
drill a hole just forwards of the cut through the 2 plates and arm
place a bolt in this hole, this provides the pivot
drill another hole 5 inches foward ofthe other one
this is the removable pin-hole
the pin is left in for on-road travel
remove the pin offroad
this should take some bind from the four bolts on the diff housing.
to test this theory, just remove one of the 4 front radius arm bolts, then ramp the rover or nissan
you should undo the bottom of the shock to check extra travel
this is a rough explanation and i don't know how to post photos
(canlifthevyfingstho)
can anyone help????
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:44 pm
by Strange Rover
I ran a hinged arm for about a year. thought it was the best thing till I finally took it out and went with the drilled bushes.
The hinge gets you lots of travel but gives is a few stability problems in off camber situations. This setup will try to flip you over sometimes because all the front axle reaction torque is reacted by one arm only and it will lift up and push down on one side only which is a PITA if you are on the limit of rolling and it pushes you the wrong way.
Lots of travel though - I could max out 14in travel shocks with the arm hinged.
Had a bit of a look on my harddrive and this is the only pic I could find. The rear half is welded and the rear too bolts are only there to reinforce the joint. The front most bolt is the "hinge" bolt and the second bolt is the removable "pin" bolt.
Ill see if I can find any more pics of it in action. The actual arm is in my shed if anybody wants it.
Sam
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:48 pm
by Strange Rover
Damn - theres some modifications going on in that pic. All you fawkers wont know what the hell you are looking at
Sam
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 10:53 pm
by landy_man
WHAT THE
nice brake setup
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 11:18 pm
by modman
can someone please explain where and which bushes are drilled
thanks
Posted: Wed Sep 24, 2003 11:48 pm
by DiscoDino
"Sam, this call's for you..."
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 7:12 am
by Strange Rover
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 7:35 am
by Bodge
Strange Rover wrote:Damn - theres some modifications going on in that pic. All you fawkers wont know what the hell you are looking at
Sam
Frankly.... effin scary
Never seen one in action but some of those off camber weight transfers scare the bejessus out of me as it is without one of my suspension components being able to fold up
and only on one side!!!
Try these for more freak factor...
http://www.roverworld.com/hingedra.htm
http://www.d-90.com/prod/hinge.html
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 7:35 pm
by modman
quinn dunsberry?? seems to think the off camber shift can be controlled with fine tuning of the shock and spring.
remember it is avery cheap modcompared to any other c rover front mod
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:24 pm
by modman
holy shit sam!!!
sometimes you make my head hurt and i did't even put a ring on your finger
any quick ideas how to extend the front turret??
i want to run 80 series konis
spacers between the ring and turret?
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:26 pm
by landy_man
i have been looking a spacers...
the only problem I see is the turret ring bolts are not long enough and none of the bolt shops have long, "thin head" bolts
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:48 pm
by modman
what about putting a spacer in a-la body lift
drill and tap the botton to screw onto the ring, then drill annd tap the top to take a bolt .
then bolt the turret to this
would it work.
by the way the sliders allmost fit( nothing a grinder and hammer can't fix)
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:49 pm
by Strange Rover
modman wrote:holy shit sam!!!
sometimes you make my head hurt and i did't even put a ring on your finger
any quick ideas how to extend the front turret??
i want to run 80 series konis
spacers between the ring and turret?
Cut them and weld them. Here is a pic of one of mine. This has been extended by about 100mm and runs 14in travel shocks. The top of it has also been modified to clear the brake master cylinder on the range rover. The other side just has the normal top welded back on but this is the best pic that I can find.
Sam
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2003 9:50 pm
by madrangie
i should have a kit for that in the next few weeks it will be a bolt in kit , pm me if you are interested