My ute is a 1982 Hilux LN46R which contains the original L (2188 cc) motor. It has 270 000km on it and has had injectors changed 1 month ago and is regularly serviced every 5000kms (oil and filter).
The problem is the motor is chewing a lot of oil but no water or anything else. There are no engine leaks so not sure where it is going. It also has lost a lot of power and sometimes is hard to start. I am not sure but I think the glow plugs might need to be changed as they are original. Does anyone know how much it costs to change glow plugs? If you have any ideas about what may be wrong with it, please let me know. Any help will be appreciated.
Also how many KM's can these engines do when looked after??
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Problems with Hilux . Please help and give any advice !!
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Banned
My advise? Don't stuff around with putting new stuff on such an old motor when they are playing up. Burning oil at a quicker rate than normal for a diesel would usually be the start of a bigger problem, or the start of the end of a motor. (Even in Petrols) Keep an eye out for a 2L that has no problems or maybe even a 3L or a surf motor, drop it in and be done with it.
*Thats my opinion, I'm no mechanic, but thats what I'd do...*
*Thats my opinion, I'm no mechanic, but thats what I'd do...*
Glow plugs are not that expensive, have a look at ebay, about 65 to 75 bucks for a set of 4.
quite easy to replace yourself.
Re the power loss, and oil useage, I would begin by asking what type of oil he is using, 270k is not alot of miles for an 82, and a well looked after diesel should see you well into the 400k mark.
Having said that, things can go wrong.
I would begin with the basic and obvious, oil leaks etc etc etc, if its been going quite ok for a while, and suddenly a problem occours, it can often be a simple, non mechanical issue.
You have mentioned no apparent oil leaks, I would check the bell housing, the drain at the bottom can clog up, and a rear main seal can leak for some time without you knowing about it, but if its using alot of oil, its got to be going somewhere, and im just clutching at straws at the moment.
Can you tell us how much its going thru in how many kms/ days etc.
Whats the exhaust colour under load, and coast etc?.
is the air inlet tube full of oil? from the air filter box to the manifold.
Is an oil pressure switch leaking??, these can leak when running, and not leave a large puddle when stopped. etc etc etc.
I would be tempted to do a cyld leakage test when the glowies are out, to see what sort of bypass you are getting. It may beging to give you an idea of whats happening.
Hate to say it, but is the air filter ok?/ and the ducting to the filter housing, you have not picked up a birds nest or some such piece of rubbish that may have suddenly affected it.
I would be looking at the obvious and starting again from scratch to make sure I didnt leap frog over a problem.
Let us know what you find.
quite easy to replace yourself.
Re the power loss, and oil useage, I would begin by asking what type of oil he is using, 270k is not alot of miles for an 82, and a well looked after diesel should see you well into the 400k mark.
Having said that, things can go wrong.
I would begin with the basic and obvious, oil leaks etc etc etc, if its been going quite ok for a while, and suddenly a problem occours, it can often be a simple, non mechanical issue.
You have mentioned no apparent oil leaks, I would check the bell housing, the drain at the bottom can clog up, and a rear main seal can leak for some time without you knowing about it, but if its using alot of oil, its got to be going somewhere, and im just clutching at straws at the moment.
Can you tell us how much its going thru in how many kms/ days etc.
Whats the exhaust colour under load, and coast etc?.
is the air inlet tube full of oil? from the air filter box to the manifold.
Is an oil pressure switch leaking??, these can leak when running, and not leave a large puddle when stopped. etc etc etc.
I would be tempted to do a cyld leakage test when the glowies are out, to see what sort of bypass you are getting. It may beging to give you an idea of whats happening.
Hate to say it, but is the air filter ok?/ and the ducting to the filter housing, you have not picked up a birds nest or some such piece of rubbish that may have suddenly affected it.
I would be looking at the obvious and starting again from scratch to make sure I didnt leap frog over a problem.
Let us know what you find.
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
Trains,
I have some answers to some of your quesitons. The oil that I am using is Penrite HPR Diesel 20W - 60. I can't see any oil leaks, but am unsure of where the bell housing is?. It goes through about 1L of oil every 3wks or so. Approximately 1500kms. Exhaust colour starts off as white/grey, then when put under load it changes to medium black. The air inlet tube is not full of oil, no signs of oil at all. In regards to the oil pressure switch leaking I don't know where it is? Sometimes when I drive, the oil light on the dash lights up. The back bolt on the engine housing has a bit of oil around it.
There has been no signs of rubbish in the air filter, all pipes are clean.
It splutters and shakes like anyhting and bloiws heaps of white smoke when you start it cold?
Anymore advice or suggestions??
I have some answers to some of your quesitons. The oil that I am using is Penrite HPR Diesel 20W - 60. I can't see any oil leaks, but am unsure of where the bell housing is?. It goes through about 1L of oil every 3wks or so. Approximately 1500kms. Exhaust colour starts off as white/grey, then when put under load it changes to medium black. The air inlet tube is not full of oil, no signs of oil at all. In regards to the oil pressure switch leaking I don't know where it is? Sometimes when I drive, the oil light on the dash lights up. The back bolt on the engine housing has a bit of oil around it.
There has been no signs of rubbish in the air filter, all pipes are clean.
It splutters and shakes like anyhting and bloiws heaps of white smoke when you start it cold?
Anymore advice or suggestions??
Hi FrankB
That penrite oil should be ok, is this the oil they have always used? Or was it changed when the injectors were done?
With med kms engine, I would be tempted to use a lighter oil say 15 40 for example and see if you get blue smoke when running hard, which would indicate oil control rings worn.
Thick oil is not always better, unless you need it to cut oil burn. Thicker oil untill it warms up can rob you of the little power you have available to you with the 2.2L.
I have a 270k engine and use bp vanellus 15 40.
Hey if it burns thru it quicker, then your onto something ;(, if not, you have given it a "flushing" oil change with nothing to loose.
I did 4 changes in a week of running, and it took quite a while to blacken up the last oil change oil, I was worried that it might have had an adverse affect on the motor, removing aged old grime that helped seal the whole thing together if you know what I mean, but it actually helped it alot, and freed it up and cut the black smoke considerably.
If the oil light is flashing on and off intermittantly, and you have a sump full of oil, I would suggest that you replace the oil pressure sender unit.
I think going by my memory (would be better to call it a forgettory), the unit is on the drivers side of the block, closer to the firewall than the oil filter. Its a small unit, about and inch in diameter, with an 8mm or so threaded end into the block, with a wire hanging off it.
Unless the wire has fallen off the unit, and its occasionally grounding to earth and causing the oil light to come on
.
The bell housing is the bit that joins the gearbox to the engine block.
At the join of this unit, and the engine block, at the lowermost part of it, there is a thin metal plate bolted onto it which acts as a dust seal. Between that thin metal plate, and the bellhousing is a spot where there should be a small gap, its usually covered in years of oil and dirt, and no longer acts as a drain, poke up a small bit of wire into it after you scrape off the years of grime to find it. It will become clear when your looking at it from underneath.
For the amount of oil your using, I would not expect that to be the problem, but more along the lines of the oil pressure switch leaking.
Trace the oil back from where you have noticed it on the bottom of the engine and see if it leads to the source. Rocker cover gasket leaking down the back of the head etc?? take into account the effect of the fan, and gravity and the many eddies inside the engine bay, ie it can blow oil anywhere ;(.
re the white smoke, and poor running when cold, that sounds like glow plugs to me.
If it were me, I would replace them as a set.
A mates 2.2 I look after has one glowie thats lazy, and it runs rough, and pops out a puf of white smoke each cyld fire until that pot has warmed up and it all runs fine.
Re the poor performance, not sure, It could be that the new injectors, with raised opening pressures, have now shown up the wear in the pump, but lets keep to eliminating the simple cheap stuff for now before blaming that and leapfrogging over the problem.
Trains
That penrite oil should be ok, is this the oil they have always used? Or was it changed when the injectors were done?
With med kms engine, I would be tempted to use a lighter oil say 15 40 for example and see if you get blue smoke when running hard, which would indicate oil control rings worn.
Thick oil is not always better, unless you need it to cut oil burn. Thicker oil untill it warms up can rob you of the little power you have available to you with the 2.2L.
I have a 270k engine and use bp vanellus 15 40.
Hey if it burns thru it quicker, then your onto something ;(, if not, you have given it a "flushing" oil change with nothing to loose.
I did 4 changes in a week of running, and it took quite a while to blacken up the last oil change oil, I was worried that it might have had an adverse affect on the motor, removing aged old grime that helped seal the whole thing together if you know what I mean, but it actually helped it alot, and freed it up and cut the black smoke considerably.
If the oil light is flashing on and off intermittantly, and you have a sump full of oil, I would suggest that you replace the oil pressure sender unit.
I think going by my memory (would be better to call it a forgettory), the unit is on the drivers side of the block, closer to the firewall than the oil filter. Its a small unit, about and inch in diameter, with an 8mm or so threaded end into the block, with a wire hanging off it.
Unless the wire has fallen off the unit, and its occasionally grounding to earth and causing the oil light to come on
.The bell housing is the bit that joins the gearbox to the engine block.
At the join of this unit, and the engine block, at the lowermost part of it, there is a thin metal plate bolted onto it which acts as a dust seal. Between that thin metal plate, and the bellhousing is a spot where there should be a small gap, its usually covered in years of oil and dirt, and no longer acts as a drain, poke up a small bit of wire into it after you scrape off the years of grime to find it. It will become clear when your looking at it from underneath.
For the amount of oil your using, I would not expect that to be the problem, but more along the lines of the oil pressure switch leaking.
Trace the oil back from where you have noticed it on the bottom of the engine and see if it leads to the source. Rocker cover gasket leaking down the back of the head etc?? take into account the effect of the fan, and gravity and the many eddies inside the engine bay, ie it can blow oil anywhere ;(.
re the white smoke, and poor running when cold, that sounds like glow plugs to me.
If it were me, I would replace them as a set.
A mates 2.2 I look after has one glowie thats lazy, and it runs rough, and pops out a puf of white smoke each cyld fire until that pot has warmed up and it all runs fine.
Re the poor performance, not sure, It could be that the new injectors, with raised opening pressures, have now shown up the wear in the pump, but lets keep to eliminating the simple cheap stuff for now before blaming that and leapfrogging over the problem.
Trains
Save the Whales......Collect the whole set.
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
My Wife Can't Shear..............But You Should See Her Crutch !
things to do
1. compresston test - this will tell you where your motor is at.
2.oil pressure check- this could of caused all your problems to start with. no oil pressure rings got hot warped, caused the consumption of oil and loss of power, and god knows what else damage to the internals.
3.white smoke on start up is your glow plugs.
4.the oil your using is a little thick drop to say 15w-40
5.check your engine breather and make sure nothing is blocked.
6.after compression check and all is ok. loss of power,- blocked fuel filter, air filter, blocked exhaust, fuel injection pump. always check the cheapest and easyest things first.
your compression test and oil pressure test come back fine and you are still using oil, and no visible signs of a oil leak, it may be your valve stem seals. the smoke on start up is it white or blue. if its blue i would say your valve stem seals are shot.
best of luck i hope it won't cost you much. let us know how things go.
1. compresston test - this will tell you where your motor is at.
2.oil pressure check- this could of caused all your problems to start with. no oil pressure rings got hot warped, caused the consumption of oil and loss of power, and god knows what else damage to the internals.
3.white smoke on start up is your glow plugs.
4.the oil your using is a little thick drop to say 15w-40
5.check your engine breather and make sure nothing is blocked.
6.after compression check and all is ok. loss of power,- blocked fuel filter, air filter, blocked exhaust, fuel injection pump. always check the cheapest and easyest things first.
your compression test and oil pressure test come back fine and you are still using oil, and no visible signs of a oil leak, it may be your valve stem seals. the smoke on start up is it white or blue. if its blue i would say your valve stem seals are shot.
best of luck i hope it won't cost you much. let us know how things go.
the oil is a little thinner and has better properties to lubricate your engine. it is easyier for your pump to pumo it though your engine. generally older the engine the bigger the gaps the higher viscosity oil you use, (within reason). mate get your oil pressure checked first as there may be larger problems with your engine. email me at simkell@westnet.com.au if you have any questions. i am a heavey diesel mechanic.
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