Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i have come to the conclusion that i need rock sliders as i hav hurt my sills rather badly ...just need to know the best way to secure them to the chassis i own a 85 nissan patrol mk i am goin to use large diamiter pipe of about 3-4 mm wall thickness i think and i just need to know how to attach them to the rails..
Cheers Bourkey

mine arew welded on my gq

Mine are u bolted around the chassis.



Cheers Mick.

mine are made as a U around the chassis and bolted on top - crudish analogy though.

if you wish i can get some pic's tomorrow

welded mine directly to chassis used 4mm walled pipe 40nb and 5mm plate to chassis . if i was to do it again i would have used 10mm plate on chassis and bolt sliders to plate but if i ever need to i can do this later . thats what plasma cutters are for

jai

when we have set sliders up on a couple of trucks we normally weld a 10mm plate to the chassis, with holes drilled and tapped to accept a10mm bolts, then on the slider we have another 10mm plate, with matchin holes, so the slider can be bolted on or off if needed,

here are some pics of the sliders i have justr finished for my GU wagon

I can vouch for ozy-1's sliders... took em off a rig I bought offhim yearsb ago - they have been on every rig i owned since.... strong as too, dropped on rocks and never damaged the sills.... If you weld em to chassis and take a big hit you bend the chassis as my mate discovered recently.

Mk

Troll01, they look good. What size steel section and tube did you use?

Squire

>>Troll01, they look good. What size steel section and tube did you use? <<

X2

i think its 75 x 45 mm box
and 50mm tube
i used 5mm flat bar for the mounts and i used 90' mandrel bends ill take some more measurements later and post them up if you like?

Patroldude wrote:I can vouch for ozy-1's sliders... took em off a rig I bought offhim yearsb ago - they have been on every rig i owned since.... strong as too, dropped on rocks and never damaged the sills.... If you weld em to chassis and take a big hit you bend the chassis as my mate discovered recently.

Mk

and how does that differ from welding on plate and than bolting the sliders to the plate? ,

Would recomend welding plates to the chassis and the bolting the sliders too them. As you tend to get a bit hung up on U bolts when sliding over things.
I'm just about to make a set of sliders for mine and will be making some more for sale soon.
Recenlty fitted a set of sliders to a car, that were made by a certain well know side bar manufacturer. They had poor quality welds, and missed one end of the chassis by 10mm, sat higher at one end than the other and did'nt really follow the line of the car. So make sure you are getting a well designed unit before parting with your money. Or if you can make them your self, go for it ! its far more satisfying.

ive just finished mine but havnt actualy got the mounting point sorted out! ill prob try to measure up tomorrow and see what i can do, ill try get some pics up in the morning of the sliders

yeah cheers for all ur replys i wanna bolt mine on as u said with the plate and taped holes sounds good also does any1 have any advice bout making a solid belly pan that may possibly attach to the sliders ?

like this?

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/t4292-ro ... atrol.html

okay, in reguard to Patroldudes reply, i have changed my mounts since he bought my old truck,

Previously i made the 2 plates so they sadwiched the chassis, which is ok if your not worried about ground clearance,

for those worried about ground clearance myself, i have since started making one 10mm mild steel plate, with 4 tapped holes and welded this to the chassis, then i have an identicle polate that is welded to the sliders, the slider then bolts on with 4 10mm high tensile bolts per mount, on my shorty i had 3 mounts per side, which totaled 24bolts, proved to be strong enough so far,

One thing thou, when making the plates to weld to the chassis, make them, long enough so they are level with top and bottom of the chassis rail, so if you do put alot of force on them, they spread the load into the top and bottom corner of the chassis rail, REMEMBER ONLY WELD VERTICALLY,

i have seen mounts welded to the rails, but tops and bottom have been a bit short, for example, chassis rail heoght measures 150mm, anf the slider mount only measures 100mm, that means the force of hard landing is only transmitted through the flat section of rail and will infact bend it, as the Chassis rail is only 3mm thick,

i will try and post a pit soon to help with the explanation,

Shawn

EDIT: dodgy paint pic added, may help my explanation

that sounds like the go i will take some measurments and get the pieces made soon

ozy1 wrote:REMEMBER ONLY WELD VERTICALLY

Probably an obvious answer to this, but why weld vertical only?

I would have thought the more contact (weld) between plate and chassis, the better.

I am about to make sliders for the Lux and will be doing them just as described by ozy1.

when it comes to welding mountings to the chassis, you are only allowed to weld vertically, as that is what Engineers follow, and if you also check your states ruels on chassis mods they will tell you the same also,


when welding the rest of the slider, weld it all,

Sweet, thanks for the heads up ! Didn't know that one.

vertically or horizontally?

I've been led to beleive welding up the chassis will make a weak point for it to crack and it should be a fishplate " > " type shape instead.

i could be way off too!

Simon

shakes wrote:vertically or horizontally?

I've been led to beleive welding up the chassis will make a weak point for it to crack and it should be a fishplate " > " type shape instead.

i could be way off too!

Simon

This is what I thought too.

That's right, Horizontal and on angles, NOT VERTICAL, this leads to cracking. If you really must weld to the chassis fish plate <=>. But if you fab up a U with a bolt over the top of the chassis what are you loosing 6 -8mm, nothing. Plus then you can remove the whole thing if you want to sell.

I'm a fan of reversible mods such that you can revert the vehicle back to standard, but that's just me.

Mick. wrote:Mine are u bolted around the chassis.


Cheers Mick.

hey mick is your patrol a gq or gu? does it have a body lift? i had a look at mine and there is very little room between the chassis and the body. or did u just find enough room to squeeze in the top bolt.

just cruizin' wrote:That's right, Horizontal and on angles, NOT VERTICAL, this leads to cracking. If you really must weld to the chassis fish plate <=>. But if you fab up a U with a bolt over the top of the chassis what are you loosing 6 -8mm, nothing. Plus then you can remove the whole thing if you want to sell.

I'm a fan of reversible mods such that you can revert the vehicle back to standard, but that's just me.

hey dude, go and see you engineer, i have just been through the engineering process, yes you can weld fish plates <=> style, but on a chassis rail you can weld at the angles and verticle,

YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO WELD HORIZONTALLY, which is what i was told,

here's a picture off mine done by Dale at 2DEXTREME

ozy1 wrote:okay, in reguard to Patroldudes reply, i have changed my mounts since he bought my old truck,

Previously i made the 2 plates so they sadwiched the chassis, which is ok if your not worried about ground clearance,

for those worried about ground clearance myself, i have since started making one 10mm mild steel plate, with 4 tapped holes and welded this to the chassis, then i have an identicle polate that is welded to the sliders, the slider then bolts on with 4 10mm high tensile bolts per mount, on my shorty i had 3 mounts per side, which totaled 24bolts, proved to be strong enough so far,

One thing thou, when making the plates to weld to the chassis, make them, long enough so they are level with top and bottom of the chassis rail, so if you do put alot of force on them, they spread the load into the top and bottom corner of the chassis rail, REMEMBER ONLY WELD VERTICALLY,

i have seen mounts welded to the rails, but tops and bottom have been a bit short, for example, chassis rail heoght measures 150mm, anf the slider mount only measures 100mm, that means the force of hard landing is only transmitted through the flat section of rail and will infact bend it, as the Chassis rail is only 3mm thick,

i will try and post a pit soon to help with the explanation,

Shawn

EDIT: dodgy paint pic added, may help my explanation

this sounds like the best option to me. (me and a mate are making our own sliders) where the holes are in the plates do you drill out the chassi so the bolts go in further or is 10mm of thread penetration enough

what do you mean exactly by "fish plating" my mate should know hes the one handy with the welder but just for my knowlage

i definatly wouldnt be drilling the chassis,

my bolts only go into the 10mm plate, we have done this way on a few rigs, and none have budged, 2 of the ones we have done have also seen comp use, one rig has landed hard enough on the slider to dent the tube and there is not mounting dramas, ive hit mine pretty hard and also had no dramas to date,

if people have other ideas and opinions im always willing to hear them, and always open to new ideas,

Shawn