Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi All

I got some very good advice from a guy in the NSW Suzuki 4WD Club......Thanks mate

My G16A engine was running well but after driving the idle would become erratic.

I thought this was caused by the VSS but it turned out not to be so

Apparently the G16A has a common problem where the Coolant doesn't flow past the Coolant Temperature Sensor. This makes the ECU believe the engine is still cold so keeps the auto choke on. This is caused by a valve that gets coroded up with crap so keeps hot coolant away from the sensor.

Quick fix is pull the plug off the sensor but cold mornings may cause the engine to stall.

Harder long term fix is to pull throttle body off and clean out pipe and valve.

Hope this helps others

good to hear its all sorted.

hey my motor is doing the exact same thing, so how exactly do u fix this i see there is 2 sensors on the side of the thermistat housing

do u have any pics or anything ?

my motor drives fine but after driving for a bit it will either idle up and down by its self or it will just idle high, like 2000rpm and it wont return to proper idle until i turn the car off then on again, is this the same problem you were having ?

thats it

The plug to the sensor is white on my engine it is at the back of the throttle body and plugs onto a canister looking thing which would be a little bigger than a film cannister

You can unplug it while the engine is playing up and see if the idle normalises

I suck at tech talk I got the explanation a little wrong

Here it is from the horses mouth

guy in the NSW Suzuki 4WD Club wrote:
It isn't the coolant sensor, it is the idle air bypass that is controlled by the engine coolant that has rusted up and won't pass water causing the extra air that is needed when cold to idle correctly to still be fed in when the motor is hot simulating a open butterfly resulting in a high and irradic idle. The plug that you remove is off the Idle air solenoid that is driven by the computer. Unpluging this will give a more stable idle when warm, but a poor idle when cold and when extra loads are applied like AC or headlights.

The Coolant sensor is working fine otherwise you would be getting a fault condition that corrisponds to the coolant sensor when you do a daignostic.

This should straighten it out.

i pulled that plug off and sure enough it runs like a dream, even when the thermo kicks in and the lights and radio are going still idles great

is there any reason why you cant leave this plug off all together ?

Like to give it a go, so where is this plug and soleniod, how do identify it, maybe a pic from a manual.

Cheersl

1Lzook wrote:i pulled that plug off and sure enough it runs like a dream, even when the thermo kicks in and the lights and radio are going still idles great

is there any reason why you cant leave this plug off all together ?

HRZOOK wrote:Quick fix is pull the plug off the sensor but cold mornings may cause the engine to stall.

On Saturday I pulled the throttle body off and to see if I could sort out the blockage.

It was quiet easy to pull off the throttle body, 4 bolts and a couple of hoses and the throttle cable.

There is a feeder hose and a return hose with what looks like a thermostat between them. My thermostat was clogged bad. I dug the crap out with a small screw driver than camped my garden hose to the feeder pipe. This actually worked and pushed some more crap out. I used some carby cleaner on the body while I had it off.

I put the body back on and connected the feeder hose but not the return hose. I let the car idle up to operating temp and lo and behold the water started running out the return pipe.

Having the sensor connected still makes the engine idle slightly higher than if off

Casey_leonard wrote:Like to give it a go, so where is this plug and soleniod, how do identify it, maybe a pic from a manual.

Cheersl

Number 40 on pic

if you do all the above and you still have problems you may have to reset the throttle body sensor.loosen the two screws then rev the enginge until the idle becomes eratic.then move the tps slightly until revs normalize.if you have a miss at idle it could also be the cone in the air flow meter.for people who own jimnys{poor buggers...i used to have one.}and have idle problems check the vaccum modulator that is screwed into the manifold and goes to the map sensor.it will be full of oil.

joeblow wrote:if you do all the above and you still have problems you may have to reset the throttle body sensor.loosen the two screws then rev the enginge until the idle becomes eratic.then move the tps slightly until revs normalize.if you have a miss at idle it could also be the cone in the air flow meter.for people who own jimnys{poor buggers...i used to have one.}and have idle problems check the vaccum modulator that is screwed into the manifold and goes to the map sensor.it will be full of oil.

that is a quick way of setting the tps... not the correct way though.


hr you can cleant the iac with efi throttle body cleaner. you will see the plastic srew when you pull it out this is the part that jams up.

mud4b wrote:that is a quick way of setting the tps... not the correct way though..

Any info on the correct way Mark?

mud4b wrote:hr you can cleant the iac with efi throttle body cleaner. you will see the plastic srew when you pull it out this is the part that jams up.

Thanks mate

HRZOOK wrote:

mud4b wrote:that is a quick way of setting the tps... not the correct way though..

Any info on the correct way Mark?

mud4b wrote:hr you can cleant the iac with efi throttle body cleaner. you will see the plastic srew when you pull it out this is the part that jams up.

Thanks mate

AT IDLE ONE OF THE WIRES WILL MEASURE OR BE CLOSE TO 5V.
its one of the wires in the middle of the bunch. you need to locate that wire and measure the voltage at idle if its not on 5 volts adjust the tps untill it reads as close as you can get it to 5volts, then blip the throttle and see if it reads the same voltage as before you reset it.
it is very hard to get it spot on 5 volts so dont stress if you cant get it there. 4.4 or under you will need to keep adjusting it.

Hey HRZOOK
Thanks for the pic.
Could you (or anyone else reading this post) recommend someone in the Newcastle area that knows enough about the G16B 16V Efi engine to do a good tune, someone that know the technical side of tune, willing to pay good money to get the job done right.
Have spoken the the Service department of both dealers here and didn't come away that impressed, just not sure if they had seen to many of em. What's your thought on a Dyno tune.
Cheers

We pulled out the welsh plug from the throttle body to see if I can clean out the rest of the crap and workout how it all works

Unsure at this moment if I was successful but here are some pics