Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I know there is no such thing as a free ride ... nor is there an cheap engine rebuild, however ...

Just for entertainment sake, what are everyone's sworn "backyard quick fixes" for high oil consumption in older engines?

ie heavier weight oils, additives, banana peels (for the QLDers ), etc ...

Post em up ...

I run mine permanently on "oil for older engines" or similar medium thicker oils.
If I run it on very thick oil, it loses too much power and won't idle.

Just don't run oil

toughnut wrote:Just don't run oil

Nulon used to claim this was possible after treatment with the product.
Claimed a 1000K trip on an empty sump. Long ago, tho.

toughnut wrote:Just don't run oil

Gunna try that on your's first and let us know how you go?

christover1 wrote:I run mine permanently on "oil for older engines" or similar medium thicker oils.
If I run it on very thick oil, it loses too much power and won't idle.

Which brands do you use?

Pennzoil "Older Engines" 60 weight sounds a bit heavy for smaller engines like a zook but maybe not?

Just put Nulon 40/70 for older engines in a rover motor, didnt use oil but now its got oil pressure

RoldIT wrote:

christover1 wrote:I run mine permanently on "oil for older engines" or similar medium thicker oils.
If I run it on very thick oil, it loses too much power and won't idle.

Which brands do you use?

Pennzoil "Older Engines" 60 weight sounds a bit heavy for smaller engines like a zook but maybe not?

atm I use Caltex Havoline (is they rippin off valvoline or what)
25/60 and mine likes it.
I did try 70 Penrite I think 70 in a very smoky engine, did help but power loss was unbearable.

zooks do need thinner oil when in good nick.

christover

christover1 wrote:

RoldIT wrote:

christover1 wrote:I run mine permanently on "oil for older engines" or similar medium thicker oils.
If I run it on very thick oil, it loses too much power and won't idle.

Which brands do you use?

Pennzoil "Older Engines" 60 weight sounds a bit heavy for smaller engines like a zook but maybe not?

atm I use Caltex Havoline (is they rippin off valvoline or what)
25/60 and mine likes it.
I did try 70 Penrite I think 70 in a very smoky engine, did help but power loss was unbearable.

zooks do need thinner oil when in good nick.

christover

Cool. My initial thoughts on the subject were in regards to a zook 1.3 motor owned by one of my mates. I use Caltex CXJ in my Patrol and it has been an excellent oil so I'll recommend the Havoline to my mate. Personally, I told him to flog the tits out of it until she blows and then upgrade the motor but he didn't like that idea ... for now.

I posted in Gen 4x4 Tech as I was interested to see if anyone had any "'ole wives tales" that actually worked.

i use penrite 40 in mine as it uses a bit of oil...slowed it down a bit without losing noticable power or idle changes

i used new rings in mine and fixed it up a treat

460cixy wrote:i used new rings in mine and fixed it up a treat

Being that you drive a Rover, wouldn't changing oil every 5000 be easier than putting new rings in every 5000klms?

RoldIT wrote:I know there is no such thing as a free ride ... nor is there an cheap engine rebuild, however ...

Just for entertainment sake, what are everyone's sworn "backyard quick fixes" for high oil consumption in older engines?

ie heavier weight oils, additives, banana peels (for the QLDers ), etc ...

Post em up ...

Dude - at current prices, it's cheaper to use oil than banana peel!

10-15 years ago I can remember some "snake-oil" remedy which was supposed to help "restore" worn rings. From memory, you poured it directly into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

I've also heard of dumping washing powder down the carby throat with the engine running - supposed to "score" the cylinder walls and help the rings seal.

YMMV

Scott

-Scott- wrote:

RoldIT wrote:I know there is no such thing as a free ride ... nor is there an cheap engine rebuild, however ...

Just for entertainment sake, what are everyone's sworn "backyard quick fixes" for high oil consumption in older engines?

ie heavier weight oils, additives, banana peels (for the QLDers ), etc ...

Post em up ...

Dude - at current prices, it's cheaper to use oil than banana peel!

10-15 years ago I can remember some "snake-oil" remedy which was supposed to help "restore" worn rings. From memory, you poured it directly into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

I've also heard of dumping washing powder down the carby throat with the engine running - supposed to "score" the cylinder walls and help the rings seal.

YMMV

Scott

Niiiiice.

I think we'll wait till it's nearly COMPLETELY farked before we give those tricks a go.

I had an old Subaru L series and when it was nearly dead I poured 2 bottles of wynnns Stop Leak into the oil... worked too

Most (not all) cars that blow smoke as a symptom of stuck rings due to poor oils being used. Usually a new set of rings are called for although there is nothing strictly wrong with the rings already fitted.
It can take a while but is not impossible to bring them back, pouring oil thickeners and more average quality heavy oils in will only compound the problem.

To return back to health considering it is to most a rebuild anyway.
Get determined with injector cleaner in the fuel and a healthy dose (but not stupid) of Diesel power additive (has oil detergent as it main ingredient) in the oil then run for 200km then dump and change oil filter. Next fill with a quality diesel synthetic or any heavy duty diesel oil (if you dont know if yours is a HDDO PM me) of 40wt never more, then just wait, it may get worse before it gets better but it is an abused engine although with the best intentions usually.
The physics of it all is simple and it works just takes a bit of time.

Then forever more leave the oils sold at supercheap and kmart on the shelf so the problem never comes back.

It's easy to rid the engine of deposits on top of the piston and on the top ring but only a decent run with a TRUE quality oil will deplete the old oils deposits in ring lands and allow the rings to work again and stop more forming to cause a smoky engine.

cheers fnq

I've also heard of dumping washing powder down the carby throat with the engine running - supposed to "score" the cylinder walls and help the rings seal.

believe it or not this is recommended practice in a engine burning oil with glazed bores (wont help worn out engine). pour measured doses into each cylinder( not down the intake)
use OMO or CAT sell deglazing powder looks same as omo haven't tryed washing my clothes with it but

360 scout - OMO Actually glazed bores is what happens to a cylinder during run-in, bore polishing is what happens at any time after due to oil and combustion coke on the rings polishing the cyl wall to a sheen. Can be avoided with a quality oil but not fixed by the oil. Glazed bores can be caused by a quality oil.

Not picking just some info.

cheers fnq

460cixy wrote:i used new rings in mine and fixed it up a treat

i thought of that option, but i put another motor in instead

RoldIT wrote:

460cixy wrote:i used new rings in mine and fixed it up a treat

Being that you drive a Rover, wouldn't changing oil every 5000 be easier than putting new rings in every 5000klms?

no mine leaks oil it does not burn it its not jap truck

Actually glazed bores is what happens to a cylinder during run-in, bore polishing is what happens at any time after due to oil and combustion coke on the rings polishing the cyl wall to a sheen. Can be avoided with a quality oil but not fixed by the oil. Glazed bores can be caused by a quality oil.

just thought you'd like some more info.
If you're bores are glazing during run in your definately doing something WRONG!
bore polishing is usually found in high mileage engines,carbon deposits actually polish the hone marks from the cylinder walls thereby affecting cylinder oiling abilities, & piston scuffing can occur.
The sheen you mentioned is found in glazed bores it's actually a thin (brownish) coating (iron oxide & graphite) over the honed finish.
different in polishing as having very shiny mirror like finish.

but now I'm confused you say "don't use quality oil can cause glazing,
don't use cheap oil can cause polishing?????"

360scout thanks for the info, yes I should have said a good oil like a hd synthetic can exacerbate glazing although I notice many of the European luxury cars are filling with good oil straight from the factory these days so they must have their manufacturing practices worked out pretty well.

A cheap oil will allow for coking (carbon) around the rings and therefore cause polishing under certain conditions for example relatively low load constant throttle applications but it can happen anytime to anyone. A quality oil is a persons best bet to avoid this.
In my very easily treated diesel I keep an eye out for polishing even though I run a HDDO.

cheers fnq