Outer Limits 4x4 Board

it is possible i know it'll be very skinny but can it be done ?
i already have an amp,12"sub ect ect just need to make a box ???

i have got 2 12s one behind each seat and an amp up behing the head rest. in a single cab hilux. with just cut down sub boxes from auto barn. also depends how big the magnet is one the back of your sub.

Depends on how you want it to sound. Sub's need a certain box size to operated properly.

You can get some subs that work well in small sealed boxes.

The smallest would be around 1 cubic foot.

Smallest boxed sub I've seen would be a Kicker Solobaric sub.

Anything ported usually needs 1.5 cubic foot minimum.

How much room do you have?

I'd go for one sub in a wider box, ported. Then put some dampening material inside. But it also depends on what sort of music you normally listen to.

If you really want one in a dual cab, put it in a box on the back seat and fasten in down somehow. Looked at putting one into my dual cab but it was going to be a real PITA, and ended up just not bothering.

This is another option, the clarion unit (srv 303)


http://www.bluewatersound.com.au/view_p ... dCat=Audio

I use one and sit it under the rear seat in my dual cab rodeo, easily does the job unless you want huge bass.

Ive seen them for $250 at the motor show and they retail for around $300.

Paul

another option would be to get free-air subwoofers...this means that they dont need to be in a box to work properly.

or you could see how one of those sub tubes fit.....im not sure how they sound either!!

evan..

G_loomis wrote:another option would be to get free-air subwoofers...this means that they dont need to be in a box to work properly.

a free air sub still needs some sort of compartment, but this is usually a car boot or rear section of a hatch. You can't have the air circulating from front to rear of a speaker or it cancels out the sound.

Maybe what could work is having one board from edge to edge, sealed at where it touches the body of the car. That way instead of making a box you just make the face of the box and use the body of the vehicle as the rest of the box. saving weight Use dampening material and that glue on bitumen type stuff so the body doesn't resonate! The board would be angled to suit the rear seat.

thanx guys i dont think ill bother its going to be to much hassle.

ill stick to my custom tray (off to powdercoasting) then custom rollbar


ALL AT $50 hehehehehehhe

What sub is it? Aslong as the depth of the sub isn't too deep then yes, anything can be built to fit behind the rear seat of a D'cab 4by. It will mean the box will have to be made wider than normal to get the volume required, that's all.

Ive got 2 eight inch subs behind the rear seat in my dual cab rodeo. They are totally hidden from prying eyes and sound good

ive fitten 2 12inch pioneer slims behind my single cab seats
and teamed it up with a alpin m450 amp putting about 200wrms into each sub

MMMMMMMM Rumble goodness

next is a set of foval 165's splits with another alpine amp under the passanger seat putting out about 70wrms into each split.........

Ive got to much time on my hands

4x4Monkey wrote: next is a set of foval 165's splits with another alpine amp under the passanger seat putting out about 70wrms into each split.........

Ive got to much time on my hands

I wouldn't suggest trying to run these off an alpine.

My mate has two sets of Focal 3 ways, (utopia's).
One set on front doors and one in the rear.
He had the latest alpine, with the voltage gauge on the top.
Ended up returning it and buy the latest MB Quart 4 channel.
Huge amp with not as much rated output per channel as the alpine but its a better sound. He was after quality rather than loudness, but it still gets quite loud.

The intire system is getting done by Northfield Mooroka


and i think ya mate was using a v12 range of amps which alpine realy made for sub range

I will be using the V-power range and the amp for the splits will be a MRP-F250

4x4Monkey wrote:The intire system is getting done by Northfield Mooroka

and i think ya mate was using a v12 range of amps which alpine realy made for sub range

I will be using the V-power range and the amp for the splits will be a MRP-F250

Yeah, I have no idea on the model numbers, just went by what sounded better and was very happy with the MB Quartz' output overall.

If you have the opportunity to look at one or even have one test fitted to see if there is an improvement, you might find it better also. One major issue (problem) with the newer alpines is that the gain control is stepped, rather than a variable knob. Although we aimed at keeping the gains at their lowest, the alpine needed to be just in between two spots for quality improvement.