Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Any tips for getting the taper out at the top of the drag link? Both tie rod ends came away from their sockets after a good tapping with the sledgie, but the drag link (that's the link connected to the tie rod right?) is stuck good.

There's nothing in the engine bay of this vehicle, so I'm able to get to the top of the joint. Still, after lubing the joint, swinging the sledgehammer at it, wedging some thin RHS in between the links for a lever, hitting the links themselves, swinging the steering back and forward, swearing and kicking, it still wont budge.

The tie rod joints came apart okay, despite having to shear the split pins with the nuts because they were stuck (at one point, wedging the spanner against the link and turning the steering wheel for leverage). With the nut wound out to the edge of the thread a few taps on top of the nut was enough.

I still need to do the same to my shortie, so I'm rather concerned that with no access from the engine bay, it's going to prove quite a challenge!

Nothing is ever freakin easy with cars, is it?

dont hit down on the nut!! Lever down on the tie rod and hit the end of the steering arm on the swivell hub HARD

DR Frankenstine wrote:dont hit down on the nut!! Lever down on the tie rod and hit the end of the steering arm on the swivell hub HARD

Mmm, I've heard of that technique actually and now that I've been reminded, I'll try it on the shorty. Problem is, the tie rod ends are already loose on the longy - it's the upper drag link joint that's the problem. I'll try a similar technique, but there's no steering arm or swivel hub to belt.

Get the siezed but soft cotter pins out of the castle nuts with a punch. And don't use a tapered carpenters punch either. Done it many many times on old Patrols....

As the Dr. said....don't hit the nut (and I add) the top of any tie rod/drag link/sway bar. You will mushroom that part and it will be screwed. Pickle forks also are worthless because they destroy tie rods. I use a puller on all this stuff. Much less work and doesn't destroy the parts.

Bought a puller and it was next to useless, because the arms couldn't grab onto the lip well enough.

Tried heat (just a butane torch, but still enough to worry the rubber bushes). Tried levering, hitting, wedging, lubing. Then tried a chain around the draglink, near the joint to the tie rod, other end of the chain on the back of the V8 and tug! Still wouldn't budge.

Gave up and angle grinded the bolt between the two arms. This allowed me to at least get the tie rod out, and I thought I'd be able to get the puller onto the section of the bolt remaining in the hole. Once the tie rod was out though, a gentle tap from the sledgie on the bolt and out she popped! Think it was the heat from the grinder? The bolt doesn't look overly corroded.

So now I need the tie rod out of the shorty. The passenger side dropped out easy (I've removed this before to get access to the front diff). The driver's and the drag link are being pricks. I guess I'll have to remove the wheel to get a swing on the swivel hub's arm. What do Nissan do?

If the nut is downward facing loosen a few turns, put a bottle jck up to end of thread/nut, jack up so vehicle weight on ot.
Hit side of joint HARD with a hammer
POP

Same on top, Use long tyre lever, werdged onto wooden blocks.
Loosen nut as before, lower weight onto lever
and WACK

Bazzle