Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Firstly, I apologise if this question has been answered elsewhere, I cannot find it with search.

I want to lift my 75 series tray back, just a bit to prevent tyre scrub.

I was thinking of chopping up some nylon from Blackwoods into 50mm lengths and replacing the bolts with 50mm longer ones.

http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/DisplayPr ... o=05182402

I notice in looking about that nylon blocks used by others tend to have steel crush tubes through them. I wonder why this is? A 50mm block of nylon would be very strong I'd think.

Can someone shed some light on the popularity of crush tubes please? Do I need 'em?

Is making my own lift blocks the quickest, simplest and cheapest way of achieving 50mm of body lift?

Firstly, yes this has been discussed many times - SEARCH. There is even an FAQ on where to buy material for lift blocks.

Secondly, if you want to get it approved, then the authorities prefer solid steel or aluminium - plastics are harder to get approved. Also nylon absorbs water, and can mean the steel on either side of the nylon will rust.

I have just been through this myself

The engineer I spoke to in Qld advised that Nylon/polyeurathane with crush tubes and solid steel are the only two options - this was for a rangie. He claims that aluminium is too soft, I am aware that some aluminium is extremely hard

Also advised that it doesn't have to be engineered as it falls into the "owner certified" classification - insurance just wanted to be notified so they could note it on the policy and increase the premium to account for the fact that the car is now modified

Then the engineer (different one) who actually cut the blocks for me advised that some of the nylon that is used can become very brittle if it comes into contact with solvents etc

Hobie18 wrote:I have just been through this myself

The engineer I spoke to in Qld advised that Nylon/polyeurathane with crush tubes and solid steel are the only two options - this was for a rangie. He claims that aluminium is too soft, I am aware that some aluminium is extremely hard

Also advised that it doesn't have to be engineered as it falls into the "owner certified" classification - insurance just wanted to be notified so they could note it on the policy and increase the premium to account for the fact that the car is now modified

Then the engineer (different one) who actually cut the blocks for me advised that some of the nylon that is used can become very brittle if it comes into contact with solvents etc

I am 99.5% sure that in QLD you need to take your directly to QLD transport inspectors to get a body lift approved - engineers are not permitted to approve them - I don't see how they can be telling you it doesn't need approval (unless of course you are not in brisbane like it says on the left).

also in QLD if you use the nylon blocks you MUST have the crush tube inside. I had to take mine into a DOT inspection station to get mine approved...and they do a full car check while you are there too....bastards!

G_loomis wrote:also in QLD if you use the nylon blocks you MUST have the crush tube inside. I had to take mine into a DOT inspection station to get mine approved...and they do a full car check while you are there too....bastards!

How much does it cost for the inspection?

So, functionally, what is the difference between a nylon block, and a nylon block with a crush tube?

just cruizin' wrote:

G_loomis wrote:also in QLD if you use the nylon blocks you MUST have the crush tube inside. I had to take mine into a DOT inspection station to get mine approved...and they do a full car check while you are there too....bastards!

How much does it cost for the inspection?

$52 apparently

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