Noob to landies

[rockcrawler31]

Hey all

i am considering starting a new project, a rebuilt landy series body on a defender or rangie chassis a la a 4x4 is born (UK tv program). My only real experience with landies is the Army Perenties, but they're a specced up vehicle.

so some questions

Do landies really leak all over the place, and can this be fixed by rebuilding the diffs and drivetrain properly?

What are the stocker CV's and axles/drivetrain like for strength? what are the weak points?

How expensive are the alloy V8's, and how hard are they to rebuild/fit injection and gas to. Are they still thirsty when fitted with gas/injected heads?

Any recommendation for year/model as a donor chassis so to avoid inherant weaknesses, problems, ease of body mount mods etc.

do people still galvanise the chassis' and what are tips

i would be looking to run 34-35 tyres, 5 inches of lift, double lockers and spring dropouts. I have seen some pretty gnarly kits over here in the UK, but can someone recommend a supplier of a 5" kit in Oz, that includes all lengthened arms, castor correction etc. The kits here all seem to be bolt on or drilling new chassis holes at most which is cool. any idea what the kits cost at home.

i have heard of these maxi drive setups. can some one give me some background on them, their effectiveness/strength costs etc. or is it better to go arb lockers.

any other links to custom landie build ups or member rigs would also be appreciated

Cheers
MILO

[red90]

So many questions......

They don't leak much more than other things. Yes the drivetrain bits can be made leak proof.

There are a variety of design variations throughout the years on axles. For your expected use, I would suggest that going with the Toyota centers, 30 spline alloy shafting and Longfield CVs is the best plan from the start. That will be bulletproof and we won't need to hear from you again.

V8s can be cheap and are as easy to work on as any american V8. They can be made to have reasonable mileage and decent power.

Galvanizing of the chassis' are quite common. No tips needed. Clean and galvanize.

IMO, 5" is too much at 100" wheelbase. If you are planning on something longer then maybe. The stock suspension with longer shocks, 2-3" lift, strengthened trailing arms, slotted bushings and spring retainers is very good and is quite low cost. Above that a multi link on the front to balance things better is worthwhile but not necessary for most.

[Suspension Stuff]

Have a look at Sam Overtons Mog Rover, you can do a search here.
I agree with everything that red 90 said but unsure about the decent power part, horses for courses.
I think with the lift you are after I would go the Defender 110 Chassis, 10 inches longer means it is better for climbing, Personally I still would limit it to maybe 4 inches as it sits off the ground pretty well at stock.
Tie your coils in and get really long shocks. Come see me for them.
The fuel injection side of the V8's such as your AFM and computer etc can cost you a LOT of money however to actually work on the motor it is quite cheap.
I think you are better off getting a donor motor, unless you get the older heavy 6 cylinder diesels that came out in the Defenders, but put a turbo on it. (Let me know if you want to know more and I will put you on to the right people).
Go the Toyota centre conversion and everything that goes with it.
Good idea to galvinize the chassis because they seem to rust more than their Jap cousins, except the parts where they are drenched in oil and fluids.
You could put MOG diffs on it then it will have front and rear lockers and your diffs would be way off the ground. You might be able to register it. But if you are going that high with your lift then hey.
Others can give you better tech.

Shane

[rockcrawler31]

brilliant

thanks for that.

how hard is it to get the yota centres in? do you swap the whole diff housing or will the bits bolt in with a little fiddling?

i imagine you'de be paying 2k for housings, 2k for locker centres, and god knows how much for longfields. why is this set up better than axles and lockers for the rover housings?

are rover axles fully or semi floating?

how hard is it to separate the cab on a series, so you can have a cab/chassis setup and 110 in wheelbase

MILO

[HSV Rangie]

brilliant

thanks for that.

how hard is it to get the yota centres in? do you swap the whole diff housing or will the bits bolt in with a little fiddling?

i imagine you'de be paying 2k for housings, 2k for locker centres, and god knows how much for longfields. why is this set up better than axles and lockers for the rover housings?

are rover axles fully or semi floating?

how hard is it to separate the cab on a series, so you can have a cab/chassis setup and 110 in wheelbase

MILO

You use rover housing.

Rear:
redrill mounting face to take toy centre. Use 8 mm studs.
bore out spindle to allow toy axle through (aprox 20 thou)
fit jacmac axles and drive flanges.

Front:
redrill mounting face to take toy centre. Use 8mm studs.
bore out swivell housings to take toy axles. loose the axle seal.
CV: options:
1: use toy cv (mod spindle to take cv) jmac or have done self.
2: use rover cv ex 110.
3: haultech modded cv.

Fit jacmac axles and drive flanges.

machine toy pinion flanges to suit rover drive shaft.

basicly it.

Michael.

[rockcrawler31]

sweeeeeet!!

sounds a damn site easier than replacing whole housings

thanks for that